spoolinlude

Thanks for the compliments guys.....

As for the heater hoses.... I actually had a welded/flushed water pipe, welded housings, and a welded/flushed plug for the larger tube in the cylinder head. I'm not 100% sure on what was going on, but best I can tell is that it was creating a hot spot right around the thermostat housing. I used a high resolution infared scanner that I :cough cough: borrowed from work to check it out while it was running, and it was easily 20-30 degrees warmer around that housing. The emmisivity was screwing up the reading, but it was pretty clear.

I would never advise anyone do this, unless you're going to completely re-engineer your cooling system. You WILL create a hot spot. You only need to loop that single 1/2" line from the head to the water pipe. Everything else can remain plugged (Still is on my car).

I picked the car back up from Jeff Saturday. Of course.... in true to form with this car, the slave cylinder went right after he finished up the tune, so I had to once again winch it onto the trailer. I'm not sure if the slave was just bad, or if the twin disk is putting extra strain on it. Either way I ordered a new OEM one and a new hard line, since that's never been replaced. Figures.

snobordboy

Gotcha.

Do you still have the dampener in the clutch line? I wonder if that is something that should come out when using a twin disc, since there is such a small amount of travel compared to a standard single disc. Pretty sure that most people remove them by simply going to the single stainless line from the master to slave, but it should be something that can be done while keeping the hard lines.

spoolinlude

Yep the damper is still there - I replaced that rubber line with a braided stainless line though. In that respect everything is working fine now. That slave was just a junk parts store one and it wore out prematurely - I replace it with an OEM one along with the hard line.

The main issue is still the idle. It's MUCH MUCH better now with a IACV but it simply cannot move enough air to make it "factory". The main issue is when the fan is running, it pulls the idle down significantly enough that the car sometimes stalls. Its not a show stopper though, I can still drive the car 90% of the time... the IACV does catch and smooth it out as much as it can. But with such a huge TB and Intake manifold, the air flow just isn't there. Jeff mentioned that he spent a ton of time trying to make that work and from a programming perspective, he's out ideas. It either needs a larger IACV or a smaller TB..... or I just deal with it because its not terrible. Which is what I'll be doing for now hahaha......

I've only gotten to drive it once so far, and only for a few miles..... haven't really gone WOT yet and its WAY faster than it was..... excited to drive it more! Need to attempt to go thru inspection. Tags died in 2012..... LOL

spoolinlude

Drove the car a few more times over the last couple days. The idle issue hasn't been as bad as it was the first day. Even when the fan was running it seems to catch, I think the key to wait to take the car out of gear and 'slow down in gear' so the engine RPM drops much slower than it would with just pressing the clutch in. By doing this the other day I only stalled once... lol

On another note - has anyone ever used these gauges? It plugs right into the "AEM NET" plug on the infinity, requires no additional wiring, and can display some ungodly amount of parameters (like 40). My old OLD wideband isn't active anymore since the infinity required a new one and runs 24/7 closed loop now. But I would still like to see AFRs and some other parameters. This gauge seems to be the ticket. Price is a little steep but the functionality makes it worth it.

http://www.btigauges.com/store/p3/BT...y_harness.html

Anyone ever use one?

snobordboy

Hmm, looks like it can do a bunch, and is specific to the Infinity. Unfortunately I only know of one other Prelude on an Infinity, and he is running either the stock 5th gen gauges, or an S2000 cluster.

I will say that the info that you can display looks similar to the DM-6 from PLX, but they are a cheaper gauge, and possibly much slimmer. The PLX gauge for my wideband is only around 1/2" deep, but fits in a gauge pod like normal.

I am assuming you are using a UEGO plugged direct into the ECU, or does it have a box of some type before the ecu, that you could pull the gauge signal from? Surprised that whatever you use didn't come with a gauge. It is nice to be able to compare gauge and ecu readings, and ensure your voltage offsets are still set correctly as well.

On the stalling issue, I assume Jeff messed with everything, but maybe keeping the throttle plate cracked for a slightly higher rpm, setting a higher idle speed in the ecu, or adjusting the throttle tip-out settings more could help? You just switched to newer injectors recently didn't you, so that should help compared to old school floodgates.

From what I remember you are using a 90mm TB on there? I am surprised that between having an IACV and adjusting the throttle body ports well, that it wont settle it down. Mine is a 76mm, but no IACV, and I have it dialed in rather well, and I am no professional tuner like Jeff.

spoolinlude

Correct the O2 plugs directly into the harness for the Infinity, unlike some of the older aftermarket ECUs it runs closed loop all the time. It actually needed a newer O2 sensor, not sure if technology has been updated but apparently my old wideband sensor wasn't compatible with the infinity.

AEM sells a gauge that you can plug into the infinity to see the AFRs, but thats all it does - this other gauge plugs into that "NET" port and provides up to 40 parameters and peak/hold/warning displays as well, which is pretty cool.

I could simply put another bung on my down pipe, and run my old gauge if I wanted to, but I think the functionality of buying the BT unit is more than worth it for all of the other functions it has. Its almost like a mini version of that TunerView that came out a few years back, but with even more parameter displays.

As for the stalling, Jeff spent hours trying to clean it up - this is the best it can be without more hardware changes. Yes its a 90mm, and also a 7L sheet metal intake manifold, which has to be adding to the issue, there's so much air in the plenum its hard to regulate. I'm still running ID1000s, I've had them since the last motor (H23). I could raise the hard idle a bit by adjusting the screw on the stop, but I don't really want to do that. Its already around 1000 rpm, which isn't horrible, but I'm hesitant to do that right away. Much lower on Pro1 cams probably won't idle well anyway.

Back when I was running a 76mm and a stock ported intake manifold I didn't have any issues either with the idle..... Lesson learned there, shoulda probably just gotten a Skunk2 manifold and re-used my 76mm when I went to a H22..... Oh well.

snobordboy

Ah ok, so this gauge can show you all of the different thing direct from the AEM without the need for anything else... that is pretty cool, and I would probably do it for that price, as long as it works.

Bosch came out with the LSU 4.9 widebands, and made a bunch of cool changes, which made some very good units "outdated". I foudn this out when my sensor bit the dust on the road trip across Canada when I moved. PLX only sells the 4.9, and my unit is a 4.2, so it meant buy a sensor elsewhere, or buy a whole new wideband setup. New 4.2 sensor sitting on my desk waiting for install to finish the re-tune.

With the 90mm and that huge BMC manifold, raising idle might be about all that you can do. I would say the cams play a big part as well. I was happy to get 900-950 stable idle out of Pro1 on my H23 with the 76mm and ported oem manifold, so 1000 with that size isn't bad. I didn't know you had cams in it as well. Hell when I first went from jdm cams to the Pro1, I had to fiddle with the tune for quite a bit just to get my engine to idle long enough to warm up, and that was the only change to the engine, when it was still on stock im and tb with a stock iacv.

spoolinlude

Plug and play and go, for $375. I'll probably do it.

I figured in 10 years someone probably updated the sensor technology. I remember when wideband O2 came out and paying I think $3-400 for that AEM gauge. But it was the coolest **** ever back then. If I ever do another car, I have that wideband I can use. Not worth selling. The sensor worked fine.

Yep I got Pro1's on Jeff's recommendation when I first rebuilt the h22. Even at low idle I don't really hear any lobing.... yes the cold start is still a bitch. Basically after 20-30 seconds though of me holding it at 2k rpm or so, I can let my foot off and the IACV takes over. I bet something like 2 IACV's would fix it, but ehh - as of now, the idle is something I can live with.

I'm in the process of putting the interior back together. Got my leather door inserts in, rear speaker deck, rear seat cross brace. Ordered some rear speakers, put the grills on the door speakers. Glad I had that other prelude and glad I took all the pieces I needed off before I scrapped it. That car had a leather interior. The rear seats needed some cleaning and softening but they look almost good as new!

I also have the OEM carpet still, needs power washed, which I'll do this weekend maybe, then I can finish putting the seats in. Hopefully it'll quiet down alot of the rattles. Funny how things change when you get older - who the hell wants a gutted car lol!

spoolinlude

Finally got around to putting the interior back in the car. What a difference it made, its SO much quieter inside now, I had to check to make sure the in-tank pump was still running from the trunk lol.

The rear seats and carpet have been out of the car since around 2002.... I power washed the carpet after soaking it in carpet cleaner. Amazing how well it turned out! I'm glad I did this instead of buying new carpet, with all the holes, that would of taken FOREVER to install. The leather seats and door panels were from another prelude I used to own that I scrapped and took most of the components I had lost or trashed and needed. Spent a lot of time cleaning and or re finishing components like the rear deck cover, speaker grates, and the leather on the rear seats was extremely hard, spent several hours with cleaner and softener to bring them back. I even have the seat rail covers on again, its a 95% complete interior now. I have had all this stuff sitting for several years, always had the intention of putting it back in, but something always happened with the motor or some other issue.

The carpet doesn't fit perfectly, but its 98% there, there's a lot of other stuff under the carpet/along the side rails than there used to be. All in all I'm really happy with how it turned out, had to relocate some relays and such that I had mounted for the direct wire fuel pumps, but all seems good now. I even put rear speakers back in it. I just bought a trunk latch cover and dead pedal on ebay, two pieces I must of forgotten to keep. I'm also looking for a grommet for the seat lock in the rear deck.

The dent in the rear seat back is from some piece of trim laying on it for oh, 4-5 years.... I'm hoping it'll come out eventually.

If anyone has the rear ash tray for the 1993 console, I am looking for one, I think 1993 was the only year that had that console, they went to the one with the cup holder in 1994.

scottcraft

That interior looks good!

spoolinlude

Thanks man - it's improved the drivability of the car so much.

A few more odds and ends to find, but the car is more or less where I want it to be at this point.

With this nasty heat wave I won't be driving it for a few days though......

grushko

nice car

spoolinlude

Thanks guys...... Just picked it back up from the body shop. Had the windshield replaced, all the little dings and dents PDR'd, some chips filled in and the over spray from four years ago finally taken off with a 3 stage cut/buff. If anyone in the tri-state area needs body work Schafers Restorations in Rising Sun MD is phenomenal. Not bad for 23.

snobordboy

Looks great!

Since I couldn't find it anywhere in the thread, what are your wheel/ tire specs?

Mykizism

Look at that beauty!

scottcraft

Your car looks really good! I like those hood pins too!

sr20paisa

flawless paint!

spoolinlude

Thanks everyone!! The car is finally what I pictured in my head 15 or so years ago when I started messing around with these things.

The front tires are 225/50/17 BFG Drag radials (I think, might be 235, will check tonight), the rears are just some NTB brand 195/50/17s. The wheels are just rota slipstreams. I am thinking of buying a set of Work S1Rs in matte bronze when I sell this 2002 civic Si I picked up as a flip. Always wanted them, could never justify spending the money though.

snobordboy

That would be a pretty solid wheel choice for your car, high quality and lasting style. One big plus of the 5 lug, as they never made them in 4x114 evidently.

Pretty sure there are some good 17" options for slicks out there now, since the Subarus and Evos needed them, so keeping the Rotas for the strip might be easier than tracking down a set of 15" wheels for that, although the sidewall size leaves a bit more to be desired.

spoolinlude

I've had my eye on them for a few years now...... just can't swallow the price tag. $2k for the wheels, another 5-600 in tires. Not horrible, considering some of these other wheels out there that are 1k a wheel, but still. I spent big money getting the car back on the road and the paint fixed. The new ECU and tuning and all the other stuff cost a lot more than planned. I think I'll just rock it the way it is, not like it looks bad or anything. I also wouldn't mind just having a set of 5th gen blades, always liked those too.

I'd love to unload some of my old stuff (sleeved block, all my rare turbo h23 stuff) to fund new wheels, but the market for that has all but disappeared it seems unless you offer it up at a crack head price. Everyone just buys the ebay crap now days.

spoolinlude

Small update- its been a while....

Car is running fine still - went back to Jeff a few months ago to get the idle issues sorted out - running a Ford Cobra IAC now, seems to have taken care of my idle woes. Though it took Jeff and I a bit to configure it and make it work.

Installed a BT gauges infinity gauge - pretty trick, plugs right into the AEMNet plug of the infinity and it can display all sorts of cool stuff with a bunch of different formats. I saw recently that he is now offering a "dash" which uses the same plug.

Instead of wheels, I bought spoon calipers - always wanted them, look great on the car. My buddies want me to get authentic spoon wheels now - I don't see the point other than telling people "yes, those are spoon wheels". Still may go for the Work Wheels next year, but I'm trying to also buy another house, so maybe not for a while.

Lastly, I upgraded my turbine housing to a true divided housing to match my divided manifold. Precision even rebadged it from a 6765 to a 6766! The exhaust wheel was damaged apparently from a few years ago, so while it was being rebuilt I thought why not upgrade to a divided housing!