AudioFunk

A few months ago I took my lude in to this mechanic for a timing belt service, I had him change the belt, tensioners, and water pump since it was leaking. When I got it back I noticed I got some power back, but the engine ran really rough below 1k RPM, it even stalled on me twice. He told me it was the throttle body, so I went on eBay and got a used OEM one, I took it to him and when I got the car back it was even worse, now it stalled if the throttle was fully closed, so he adjusted the cable to keep the throttle a bit open so the car wouldn't stall. He told me it was the IACV, so there I go again got a used OEM unit and took it to him. Nope, still has to keep the throttle open. I put on another new aftermarket IACV and it still same problem, tested the TPS and it has the right voltage closed and at WOT. So the engine always idles, or if it even idles at the line above 1k, maybe 1200 or 1500. Spark plugs indicate a lean condition also. It wastes a lot of gas, and it probably runs hotter because of that. I recorded 2 videos to show you guys, I really need to fix this, it's been 4 months since I took it in for the service and I don't want to take it in to another mechanic who might screw me over again. Anyways, the first video is how it acts up, Idle would come up and down, it would go up, then you would hear a "pop" from the intake then idle would come down. I recommend using headphones. The surging stops when I plug the IACV hole. Second video is looking at the tach and how it acts when in park and when I shift to R or D4, it seems the idle actually climbs up when put into Drive or R instead of going down into the 700-900 range like it use to before. When put into gears the sucking noise that the intake makes is really loud. It seems like the mechanic messed with the idle screw but I don't wanna touch it since I might make things worse. I hope I can fix this. Thank you.

https://www.youtube.com/upload

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=XoPA...ature=youtu.be

holmesnmanny

Check your mechanical timing first.

Anh Meo

I hate to say this, but take it to the dealership and let them diagnose the problem. You will pay for the diagnostics but at least you will know for sure. If it is a problem from when your mechanic did the work, you can take him the proof from the Honda Dealership.

AudioFunk

Hmm, that might explain the popping noise I hear coming from the intake, could be one of the cams being off a tooth?

Sparksman

I only see 1 vid, and its not unheard of for one to skip a tooth.

You said the surging stops when you plug the IACV hole? Maybe thats causing a vacuum leak issue? There shouldnt be any open holes on the intake mani other then the intake itself. Id leave your intake on while trying to figure it out.

Have you sprayed some cleaner around your intake mani gasket to see if it stops the surge?

What about the EGR?

Does it only do it when its cold? FITV?

My cousin had a issue with his auto when he changed gears it changed the idle rpm as well. It was a junker saturn so wasnt worth the money to attempt a fix, but auto trans have their own ecu's. Maybe something to do with that?

Do you have a exhaust/header leak upstream of the o2? Fresh air could throw the air fuel mixture readings, and you did say it runs lean.

PreludeRacer023

what do you mean plugging the iacv hole? there should be no hole....???