LudeyKrus

I'm gonna correct one thing about Prelittlelude's post:

I believe he was referring to the belief that you can't use the H23 manual tensioner on the H23 VTEC. This is not true. It does take out a considerable amount of the slack, and it is a VERY tight squeeze to get the belt back on, but it is doable; I did it on mine.

Sam1am26

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by ludesleep &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
*VTEC controller - not required but could be used if you dont buy a new ECU/ECM and have a way to bypass your redline.
</TD></TR></TABLE>

So I could use my p14 ecu with a vtec controller instead of buying a p13???

Sam1am26

nevermind, i found out how to do it, i think a vfac would be the best option for me because if i got a p13 i would still want a vfac to adjust vtec point and fuel curve, so i might as well just skip over buying the p13

prelittlelude

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by prelittlelude &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
then the other problem is that if you used the h23 timing equipment the h22 and h23 head are not the same height, and you would come up too short i belive. so in that case you would have to get a custom belt or, start changing waterpump gears to gain the extra timing belt slack back</TD></TR></TABLE>

no when i said this, i know the the h23 manual tnetioner can be used if all the appropriate h22 timing belt equipment is used, but i was saying that your not going to be able to use the h23 timing belt with all h23 timing equipment (if you were trying to stay with the stock cam gears and lower timing gear) because the h22 head is taller

so if you had an h23 block, h22 head, and all h23 timing equipment including bottom gear and cam gears and water pump, then the h23 timing belt would be to short

i was saying that the h23 vs h22 belt length is different,

i know for a fact that u can use the h23 manual entioner witht he h23 vtec,

sorry if i was unclear in my post

Sam1am26

Is it ok to use a p14 ecu with an h23 vtec and use a vafc to operate vtec? i didnt think there would be any problems because i could use the vfac to tune the fuel maps but will the ignition timing be different? if so what can i do about this? or what do you think would be a better option?

prelittlelude

the p14 ecu doesn't seem liek a good choise to me. not only is the p14 map designed to work with different injectors, i don't think there is a way to make the ecu extend its reving range . i suppose you could maybe get some hack withteh afc to work, but not a good idea

not only is the fueling different for high and low cams , the iginition is totally different, get a p13, or get a p72 and tune with you vafc

Sam1am26

Well the fuel maps wouldn't really matter because i would can adjust that all with a vfac, the only thing i would be concerned about is the differences in the ignition maps. And I also was planning on leaving my rev limit at 68 thats why i kinda liked the ID of reusing my P14 but I think I'm going to use a USDM P13 for now...

prelittlelude

i don't know much about the vafc, can you adjust ignition with it, or only fuel,, the ignition maps for the top end on the h22 ecu are pretty aggressive , and probably you will not bemaking close to the power you should be if you use the p14 ecu.

Sam1am26

yeah i think im going to just use a p13 but i just don't like the idea of raising my rev limit... even if i don't plan on revving that high, accidents can happen... But if I uses a US P13 the rev limit will only be raised to 7200 RPMs, thats only 400 RPMs more than that p14s 6800 rev limit, so that isn't too bad..

prelittlelude

im trying to remember where i have my shift light set, but i think the h22 has a fuel cut of 7400 ,

thehondaguru

Yeah dont use the p14. It wont even work vtec or the ignition tables for vtec. The vafc is only a hack to change the crossover point of vtec and change your fuel maps.

Having a vafc with a p14 will not work because the vafc needs to work with the ecu. It would run like absolute ****. I would use the p13 and then just get an msd box or something to adjust your rev limiter down if you are that scared.

cjb10275

yes i need help i have an h23 vtec now does not want to run it cranks but does not run can you tell me what kind of set up wiring wise you have i am using a obd I distributor regular h22a coil all h22a obdII stuff except the distributor which came from a 94 prelude si vtec which is obd I what needs to be done ???? if you have aol : cb10275 or corlibra1 or yahoo:cjb10275 please help me and also how reliable is this swap i know the ls/vtec swap is pretty go so why would this not be any different ?????

cjb10275

wow thank you for that statement it makes no sense for honda to build a h22a with different internals (bottom end) and go and spend more money to make the same engine 1 liter more and non vtec and use different stuff thank you i think the h23 vtec is as reliable as the h22 if you push it hard all day everyday it is going to wear or blow eventually i think the h22a and h23 are identical or almost identical and can be mated and interchanged like the b series vtec and non vtec

Rick Solis

Ok, I have a question.

Myself and one of my good friends will be doing H builds soon and this is a topic we were dicussing earlier.

I was playing with the idea of going with boost. The block will be sleeved by a ocal machine shop. If I do decide to go boost Ill be using a set of custom Ross 10.0:1 pistons for the H23/VTEC set up, Probe rods and a crio treated, micro polished and balanced H23 crank. The block will also be recieving a fresh line hone, new ACL bearings, new water/oil pumps and H22 oil squirters.

The top end will be a ported 98 H22 head, Portflow inners, Ferrea valves, stock H22 cams, Venom IM and a STR TB.

Now, if this motor is kept to a 7600 rpm rev limit, maintenance performed often and regularly with only 12 PSI daily and an occasional 14-16 for my once or twice a year track romps does anybody see any potential issues with this combination? Can this be as reliable as the H22 built the same way? Ill be using a Hondata'd P28 tuned by AEBS.

Im really leaning in the direction of boost so if the H23 bottom end is going to be a lesser block than the H22 than I think I might just stay 2.2

I love the idea of the 2.3 and boost though.

Feedback and suggestions please

cjb10275

hey sikpreulde i need to know how you did your wiring what type of block and head are you using i am trying to do the same swap but having trouble with the obd2 head and obd1 block

atcclude

how the **** do i take off the lower crank gears, i am in the middle of doing this setup

prelittlelude

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by SoCalude98 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Ok, I have a question.

Myself and one of my good friends will be doing H builds soon and this is a topic we were dicussing earlier.

I was playing with the idea of going with boost. The block will be sleeved by a ocal machine shop. If I do decide to go boost Ill be using a set of custom Ross 10.0:1 pistons for the H23/VTEC set up, Probe rods and a crio treated, micro polished and balanced H23 crank. The block will also be recieving a fresh line hone, new ACL bearings, new water/oil pumps and H22 oil squirters.

The top end will be a ported 98 H22 head, Portflow inners, Ferrea valves, stock H22 cams, Venom IM and a STR TB.

Now, if this motor is kept to a 7600 rpm rev limit, maintenance performed often and regularly with only 12 PSI daily and an occasional 14-16 for my once or twice a year track romps does anybody see any potential issues with this combination? Can this be as reliable as the H22 built the same way? Ill be using a Hondata'd P28 tuned by AEBS.

Im really leaning in the direction of boost so if the H23 bottom end is going to be a lesser block than the H22 than I think I might just stay 2.2

I love the idea of the 2.3 and boost though.

Feedback and suggestions please</TD></TR></TABLE>

the fact that your upgrading the lower end,will help significantly. i have been doing some reading and it might be benificial before assembly to have the entire rotating assembly balanced in order to reduce forces when high reving a 95mm crank.

i think if you keep good oil presure and don't rev to 7500 every second, you may be ok. an h23 vtec turbo would be a sick combo, but it is un tested grounds, so being a pioner many things can go wrong. i think the extra torque would be well worth it.

but if you are sleving you H block you could always bore out the h22 and use h22 internals and reach the same displacement of 2.3, or you can bore out a h block with h23 internals and reach a higher displacement than 2.3

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
how the **** do i take off the lower crank gears, i am in the middle of doing this setup</TD></TR></TABLE>

yeah that lower crank gear is a bithc, you need to use plenty of penetrating lubricant. there are 2 ways to go about it:

1 if you want to save the keyway you have to keep spraying it down, and heating it (not to hot) and gently try to wiggle the keyway out and don't pry behind the gear because either you will **** up the seal back there or bend the washer that guideds the timing belt.

2 if you are just going to order a new keyway, clamp the **** out of it with some vice grips and just start hammering toward you on the vice grips, while sparying it down with penetrating lubricant. it will come out eventualy, but you end up destorying the keys way

cjb10275

hey ludesleep i am doing a h23 vtec in my accord 97 4 door can't get it to start it cranks but does not start the head is obd2 2000 h22a and the block is from a 93 si (h23) please input any info that you can tell me what you did i am having the harness sent out to hasport to wire it as a accord manual i should have just went out and got the hasport harness for the swap but i had my old one converted which caused missed connected sensors and no vtec so help if you can my aol is corlibra1 ,cjb10275 and my yahoo is also cjb10275 or just post a message on here to me ok

cjb10275

hey to take off the lower crank gear take the key out with a pair of pliers and the gear comes right off all depending on how tight that **** is on mine came off real easy but that is all you have to do the key is a little notch where the gear is held on just pop that off and she comes right off

cjb10275

hey i didn't read everything but is your set up running ???? and if so can you tell me exactly what you did to get it running i have the engine in 2000 h22a 93 h23 block **** does not want to start but she does crank help a brotha out

cjb10275

also to help u out i would definitely do the oil squirters because the crank is not designed to handle 7800 rpm for a long duration so it gets starved of oil at high rpms also i would do lower compression pistons the compression is the same as the h22 but you get more torque provided you used the h22a head gasket but definitely the oil squirters connecting rods and pistons and you are straight do not port and polish the head that is my opinion holla back if you want to chat or have an answer for my question or have any questions

ALLMOTORJ

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by H23vtecEG &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">posted in this thread before but never got a chance to post pix. here are some pix of the process. the engine is now in the car and running cant wait to take it out



</TD></TR></TABLE>

Some one mentioned that he was driving around with his H23 vtec (without VTEC)for a year because the oil orifice control was still pluged up. What I don't understand is where else would the head get its oil from if this is plugged up. I don't see any other oiling holes besides the one in the oil orifice. the round ones by the coolant passages are for the head studs.

darvtec

do you know the exact setup that i have to make for the h23vtec ??
i have the h22 engine and h23block wo crank and rods
what exactly do i need?? to get this done

biglew

How about reading the thread.

Sam1am26

wow that sucks because the h23 crank and rods are two of the most important things you will need...