after all the grief we give everyone that asks this question, i looked, and there really isn't any clear information given, so i am askign if someone would please write a good "How To" article on this PLEASE
anyone i have flamed for asking the question, i apologize
write up... not sure but i do know all the parts required.
h22a head 93+(USDM) or 92+ (JDM) with all internals and valve cover
h22a thermostat housing
h22a lower crank gear
h22a timing belt
h22a plug wires
h22a intake manifold (injectors perfered)
h22a header and downpipe
h22a cam gears
h22a top timing belt covers
h22a power steering braket (h23 doesn't line up right)
everything else is easy.. swap out all the parts and sensors from the h23 to the h22a intake manifold.
you can use the h23 powersteering holder but you ned to grind some off the mounting point to clear the head if not it won't bolt up, about 1 inch or so....
eh.. keep the same distributor mounts the same and is fine, but the wires are deeper in the h22a. use the manual tensioner.
replace all the parts listed above, rmove the oilcontrol plug in the block, before putting the head on.
install all the parts, you will need to run other wires and the ecu, but machanically this is it, you cannot use the same waterpump, lower crank gear because the teeth are off and the belt would fail....
anybody attemptin this from a h23 is waisting his time and money.. simpler to go if you allready have an h22a... otherwise will be more expensive the other way...
my own opinion.
and also you need to modify a couple vacuum lines and coolant lines if you keep the non vtec throttlebody because of the extra line.. otherwise do-able....
hope this helps....
"Imagine if i actually knew anything..."
2. VTEC timing belt- VTEC has more teeth on the belt than the Si does.
3. VTEC water pump.
4. VTEC auto hydraulic tensioner for timing belt.
5. VTEC manual tensioner.
6. VTEC head gasket.
7. VTEC lower, most inner crankshaft pulley; ('96 is different due to sensors!!!).
8. VTEC intake manifold ('96, throttle body has sensors which you need to use).
9. VTEC exhaust manifold - i couldnt find a used downpipe, dealer was $621, so i bought DC Headers-VTEC.
10. VTEC ECU/ECM.
11. VTEC spark plugs and wires.
12. VTEC water pump pipe (black pipe that runs behind the head from the water pump to thermostat housing.
13. VTEC injectors - if you don't change these over, then once you plug in the ECU/ECM you will keep blowing the 'EAT ECU' fuse when you crank/start the car.
*DISTRIBUTOR was the same so it did not need to be changed - double checked part numbers.
*VTEC controller - not required but could be used if you dont buy a new ECU/ECM and have a way to bypass your redline.
WHY i did it?
I started the car and heard the awkwardly tapping motor in my prelude as i left it on for a few minutes to warm up. It was idling pretty low lately so i didn't think much of it cause i knew it had something wrong with it but it was running. I pulled out of the driveway Thursday evening on April 4th, 2001, I approached the stop sign exiting the neighborhood then it just died quietly. I tried to start it several times but it was just whining, i could tell the engine was not turning so i realized the timing belt may have snapped. I knew the timing belt broke most likely from prying it on and off a few times. So luckily i was in the neighborhood and not far enough to push the car back in the garage rather than getting a tow truck. I pulled the valve cover off and there was the timing belt sitting there, broken. I replaced the belt but it still didnt start so i realized the valves are bent. So i pulled off the head and sure enough all the valves were bent and open. I decided to get something out of all this mess and go VTEC! So i found a VTEC head at a junk yard and took it to get it ported and polished. So now i have a ported and polished VTEC head on my 2.3 block rather than the 2.2 prelude VTECs come stock. I dont really know if this setup is worth doing just to do it if youre engine is fine or if you have a H22 motor that you can just swap in... it may not be worth the 2.3-2.2= 0.10 difference...
WHAT’s the difference between the setup and parts?
The reason for changing some of parts listed is because the VTEC timing belt has more teeth on it that the Si belt. Therefore you need to change everything that touches the timing belt such as the inner most crankshaft pulley, tensioners, and water pump- because you dont want to have to go back in there a few months down the road if it goes bad and starts leaking and open everything back up to change it. Change the lower balancer belt as well for the same reason as the water pump, however it does not need to be converted over to the VTEC part. The timing belt doesnt touch the balancer components on the lower block so nothing had to be modified with that, only what touches the timing belt.
Some stupid mistakes i made which didnt let the car run once i was done and i had overlooked was a blown "EAT ECU" fuse under the dash. Also the ECU ground was not reconnected which is bolted on the thermostat housing on the head. Then i had a major oil leak which made me think the head gasket was not sitting right; it turned out to be the cam seal on the exhaust cam was not sitting all the way down because the bracket holding it wasnt bolted down all the way
Snyder Racing Heads
If you need
Head work as far as port,valve jobs ect..
surfacing, sleeving,boring,hone,full engine assembly blueprinting
Contact me we use state of art machines that you will find in all CUP shops
does anyone know of step by step, details instructions for this???
i just picked up a 93 Si AND an H22 head, intake manifold and TB this weekend, looking to do the conversion soon, when i built my LS/VTEC last summer, this is the site i used http://www.diyracing.com/ls_vtechowto.html
i know how the LS/VTEC works, i want to build more of them, now i want to build an H23/VTEC, JUST OT DO IT!!!
Hey Sam. Let me know which of those parts listed above you can't find around your area. I can probably get them cheap from the guy I got the head from. I had planned on doing the h23/vtec with that car as well, but I only bought the head cause it's all I could afford at the time.
I wish you the best of luck with your new project, hopefully you will be sucsessful this time around too!
Sounds to me like the H23 VTEC costs just as much if not more than an H22 swap. Although the H23 VTEC has a lot more torque.
Street Race: H23 VTEC no mods VS. H22 no mods...........who wins?
[B]Exterior:[/B] Wings West RS Kit
R34 Skyline Blue
White 17" Rota Subzero's
215/40/17 Yokohama Parada Spec-2's
[B]Audio:[/B] Nakamichi 45z Head unit
i bought myself a blown h22a4 for 300, this got me the head oil pump water pump head and everything else i needed from the h22.
got an H23 swap at the junk yard for 300
ripped everything apart borred it out 25 over
jdm type s pistons
ported the head
top line oversized bearings do to micropolished cranck
and of course the oil squirters and all gaskets
all this for under 1500 bucks.
procedure of putting this together is the same as putting together an h22
anyone get any dyno charts yet from their H23-VTEC
OK, bottom line this. Has anyone dynoed one yet? I have an H22A4 in my 92 lude now. It seems that all I would need is the H23 block. I would not change what I have without the knowing the redline and durability. Does anyone have any bottom line specs????
Honda and the Honda marquee are registered trademarks of the American Honda Motor Company, Inc. Neither American Honda Motor Company nor its subsidiaries or affiliates shall bear any responsibility for Honda-Tech.com content, comments, or advertising. Honda-Tech.com is not affiliated with American Honda Motor Company in any way. American Honda Motor Company does not sponsor, support, or endorse Honda-Tech.com in any way.
Copyright/trademark/sales mark infringements are not intended or implied.