HOW TO: Convert OBD2 h22a4 to OBD1 h22a1/h23a1 distributor
04-12-2008, 11:06 AM
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HOW TO: Convert OBD2 h22a4 to OBD1 h22a1/h23a1 distributor
http://bbmoto.net/wiki/index.p...rsion
this is an article on how to convert your OBDII USDM H22a4 to be able to use an OBD1 USDM H22a1 or H23a1 Distributor. Reasons to do this include: the ability to change base timing (as you should know, on OBD2 H22's, ignition timing is all ecu based and the distributor cannot be adjusted) and the ability to make use of aftermarket, adjustable cam gears. On h22a4's, you cannot make adjustments to the exhaust cam gear without getting a CYP check engine light
The OBDI external coil distributor is an 8 pin male connector. The OBDII distributor is a 4 pin connector. This 4pin connector houses the terminals for the CYP P, CYP M, and ICM.
to do this in a sort of nice way, you must first make your harness from the CKP plug on the engine harness and run your wires to the new 8pin female connector. If you dont have access to these, you can likely go to the junkyard and snag them off any 92-95 honda you see. You want the pins from the connector as well, so just cut the whole connector off the harness with enough wire to solder onto. You will also need a male 4pin connector. This can be found on the majority of 4 wire o2 sensors.
The distributor conversion wiring is as follows:
OBDII -----------> OBDI--------> function
* Black...............Blue/Yellow........CKP M
* Red................White/Blue..........TDC M
* White.................WHITE............CYP M
* Yellow.............Blue/Green..........CKP P
* Green............Orange/Blue...........TDC P
* Blue...............Orange..............CYP P
* Yellow/Green.....Yellow/Green..........ICM
* Green...............Green..............ICM
Modified by 98vtec at 3:23 PM 10/8/2008
this is an article on how to convert your OBDII USDM H22a4 to be able to use an OBD1 USDM H22a1 or H23a1 Distributor. Reasons to do this include: the ability to change base timing (as you should know, on OBD2 H22's, ignition timing is all ecu based and the distributor cannot be adjusted) and the ability to make use of aftermarket, adjustable cam gears. On h22a4's, you cannot make adjustments to the exhaust cam gear without getting a CYP check engine light
The OBDI external coil distributor is an 8 pin male connector. The OBDII distributor is a 4 pin connector. This 4pin connector houses the terminals for the CYP P, CYP M, and ICM.
to do this in a sort of nice way, you must first make your harness from the CKP plug on the engine harness and run your wires to the new 8pin female connector. If you dont have access to these, you can likely go to the junkyard and snag them off any 92-95 honda you see. You want the pins from the connector as well, so just cut the whole connector off the harness with enough wire to solder onto. You will also need a male 4pin connector. This can be found on the majority of 4 wire o2 sensors.
The distributor conversion wiring is as follows:
OBDII -----------> OBDI--------> function
* Black...............Blue/Yellow........CKP M
* Red................White/Blue..........TDC M
* White.................WHITE............CYP M
* Yellow.............Blue/Green..........CKP P
* Green............Orange/Blue...........TDC P
* Blue...............Orange..............CYP P
* Yellow/Green.....Yellow/Green..........ICM
* Green...............Green..............ICM
Modified by 98vtec at 3:23 PM 10/8/2008
10-08-2008, 12:43 PM
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Re: HOW TO: Convert OBD2 h22a4 to OBD1 h22a1/h23a1 distributor (98vtec)
my obd1 dizzy only has 7 wires going to the 8 pin connector is this normal if so what wire goes in the empty hole on the connector
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10-09-2008, 12:54 PM
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Re: (starbai)
I dont have a picture but the colors go looking into the back of the connector with the tab at the top
White/lightblue orange/light blue/yellow green
orange/white light blue/ light blue yellow/ *empty spot*
White/lightblue orange/light blue/yellow green
orange/white light blue/ light blue yellow/ *empty spot*
10-23-2008, 11:49 AM
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Re: HOW TO: Convert OBD2 h22a4 to OBD1 h22a1/h23a1 distributor (98vtec)
This one is wrong......
this one is right......
to solder the OBD2 connector to the OBD1 dizzy:
connector------------ dizzy
green-----------------green
yellow/green---------yellow/green
black------------------white
yellow-----------------orange
then there's gonna be 4 more wires comin off the OBD1 dizzy, which get extended down to the TDC and CKP on the oil pump (again, i cut the bottom connector off and soldered them):
OBD1 dizzy------- OBD2 TDC & CKP:
blue/green----------blue
blue/yellow --------white
orange/blue--------green
white/blue----------red
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------
this one is right......
to solder the OBD2 connector to the OBD1 dizzy:
connector------------ dizzy
green-----------------green
yellow/green---------yellow/green
black------------------white
yellow-----------------orange
then there's gonna be 4 more wires comin off the OBD1 dizzy, which get extended down to the TDC and CKP on the oil pump (again, i cut the bottom connector off and soldered them):
OBD1 dizzy------- OBD2 TDC & CKP:
blue/green----------blue
blue/yellow --------white
orange/blue--------green
white/blue----------red
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------
10-23-2008, 12:07 PM
#11
I'll add a caution here. You're going to want to cut open the engine harness and move the wires up to the distributor plug rather than extend or solder anything in series with them.
They're shielded already in there, so it is much easier to do this correctly by doing what I've said, though I suppose you could just extend them and buy more shielding to use, but that is too much of a hassle.
They carry high frequency AC signals from those sensors all the way to the ecu, and any interference on the wires can cause ignition problems. I had 2 or 3 long years of constantly burning ICMs and coils because I extended the wires with no shielding. I then did what I said above and the car hasn't had a problem since.
They're shielded already in there, so it is much easier to do this correctly by doing what I've said, though I suppose you could just extend them and buy more shielding to use, but that is too much of a hassle.
They carry high frequency AC signals from those sensors all the way to the ecu, and any interference on the wires can cause ignition problems. I had 2 or 3 long years of constantly burning ICMs and coils because I extended the wires with no shielding. I then did what I said above and the car hasn't had a problem since.
10-23-2008, 06:40 PM
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i might be missing something here...maybe someone can confirm what im thinking/saying.
both dizzys have a 2-pin connector. the obd 1 dizzy also has an 8 pin connector and obd 2 dizzy additionally has a 4 pin connector. the goal is to make the obd 2 connector an 8 pin connector.
my question then, is where do the additional 4 wires from the obd 2 engine wiring harness go? where do the extra wires from the obd 1 8 pin connector get wired?
i hope im making sense. im doing a full wire tuck so i dont think that i need to make an adaptor harness per se. im guessing that i can just hard wire the new connectors in... i'll be using a 5th gen wiring harness (my 97 preludes original harness) on an H22A1 (obd 1) engine/dizzy.
both dizzys have a 2-pin connector. the obd 1 dizzy also has an 8 pin connector and obd 2 dizzy additionally has a 4 pin connector. the goal is to make the obd 2 connector an 8 pin connector.
my question then, is where do the additional 4 wires from the obd 2 engine wiring harness go? where do the extra wires from the obd 1 8 pin connector get wired?
i hope im making sense. im doing a full wire tuck so i dont think that i need to make an adaptor harness per se. im guessing that i can just hard wire the new connectors in... i'll be using a 5th gen wiring harness (my 97 preludes original harness) on an H22A1 (obd 1) engine/dizzy.
10-24-2008, 05:57 AM
#13
Re: (pheurton-skeurto)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by pheurton-skeurto »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">both dizzys have a 2-pin connector. the obd 1 dizzy also has an 8 pin connector and obd 2 dizzy additionally has a 4 pin connector. the goal is to make the obd 2 connector an 8 pin connector.
my question then, is where do the additional 4 wires from the obd 2 engine wiring harness go? where do the extra wires from the obd 1 8 pin connector get wired?
i hope im making sense. im doing a full wire tuck so i dont think that i need to make an adaptor harness per se. im guessing that i can just hard wire the new connectors in... i'll be using a 5th gen wiring harness (my 97 preludes original harness) on an H22A1 (obd 1) engine/dizzy. </TD></TR></TABLE>
I think you're a bit confused. The obd2 dist only has two(one 2pin and one 4pin) connectors.
What you'll want to do in your obd2 prelude with an obd1 engine, assuming that you've already done the swap and didn't switch over the oil pump and sensors and such down there is what I posted above. You're going to cut open your engine harness and move the wires for the 2 crank sensors up towards the distributor, and pin them into an 8pin connector on your obd2 harness to clip in with the obd1 dist.
Read above on my cautions to just extending the wires.
my question then, is where do the additional 4 wires from the obd 2 engine wiring harness go? where do the extra wires from the obd 1 8 pin connector get wired?
i hope im making sense. im doing a full wire tuck so i dont think that i need to make an adaptor harness per se. im guessing that i can just hard wire the new connectors in... i'll be using a 5th gen wiring harness (my 97 preludes original harness) on an H22A1 (obd 1) engine/dizzy. </TD></TR></TABLE>
I think you're a bit confused. The obd2 dist only has two(one 2pin and one 4pin) connectors.
What you'll want to do in your obd2 prelude with an obd1 engine, assuming that you've already done the swap and didn't switch over the oil pump and sensors and such down there is what I posted above. You're going to cut open your engine harness and move the wires for the 2 crank sensors up towards the distributor, and pin them into an 8pin connector on your obd2 harness to clip in with the obd1 dist.
Read above on my cautions to just extending the wires.
10-24-2008, 03:51 PM
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okay. that makes sense. i wasnt confused in the first place, i just typed out my thoughts in an illogical order that only made sense to me...ha!
the only problem that i think i'll have from here is that the "8-pin" connector that i pulled from my old OBD1 civic dizzy only has 7 wires pinned into it. it looks like it is missing the solid green wire (or the ICM). looks like a similar problem to the guy above). heres a picture of the 8-pin connector from the civic:
the only problem that i think i'll have from here is that the "8-pin" connector that i pulled from my old OBD1 civic dizzy only has 7 wires pinned into it. it looks like it is missing the solid green wire (or the ICM). looks like a similar problem to the guy above). heres a picture of the 8-pin connector from the civic:
10-24-2008, 07:11 PM
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Re: (mgags7)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by mgags7 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">that wire isn't used with internal coils.</TD></TR></TABLE>
is the OBD1 H22 dizzy internal coil? i know that the OBD2 H22 dizzy is external. so will this 8-pin connector that i have even work with the OBD1 H22 dizzy? if so, where do i wire the green wire from the dizzy?
is the OBD1 H22 dizzy internal coil? i know that the OBD2 H22 dizzy is external. so will this 8-pin connector that i have even work with the OBD1 H22 dizzy? if so, where do i wire the green wire from the dizzy?
10-27-2008, 04:49 AM
#18
Re: (A Blue Lude)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by A Blue Lude »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I have a harness that connects my JDM distributor to my factory wire harness CKP/TDC pickups and it seems to work ok.
*shrug* </TD></TR></TABLE>
Are the wires shielded inside it?
I had problems, and that was what was causing them.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by pheurton-skeurto »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
is the OBD1 H22 dizzy internal coil? i know that the OBD2 H22 dizzy is external. so will this 8-pin connector that i have even work with the OBD1 H22 dizzy? if so, where do i wire the green wire from the dizzy? </TD></TR></TABLE>
the obd1 US dizzy is external coil, the JDM one is internal. Yes, your 8pin connector will work, and if you use the usdm one, you won't have to change that green wire at all.
*shrug* </TD></TR></TABLE>
Are the wires shielded inside it?
I had problems, and that was what was causing them.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by pheurton-skeurto »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
is the OBD1 H22 dizzy internal coil? i know that the OBD2 H22 dizzy is external. so will this 8-pin connector that i have even work with the OBD1 H22 dizzy? if so, where do i wire the green wire from the dizzy? </TD></TR></TABLE>
the obd1 US dizzy is external coil, the JDM one is internal. Yes, your 8pin connector will work, and if you use the usdm one, you won't have to change that green wire at all.
12-09-2008, 06:21 PM
#19
Honda-Tech Member
Glad I found this. I pulled a H23 out of a prelude. The motor and engine harness were out of a 96 prelude and was swapped into a 93 prelude.
The H22 wont start. But we are using the same 4 pin obd2 dizzy, with the same ecu except the crank sensor isn't hooked up. We are swapping in a chipped p06 but can't get any spark.
Reckon an OBD1 dizzy wired in right would fix our problem? we are gonna eliminate the external coil and ckp sensors to verify that isn't our problems.
The H22 wont start. But we are using the same 4 pin obd2 dizzy, with the same ecu except the crank sensor isn't hooked up. We are swapping in a chipped p06 but can't get any spark.
Reckon an OBD1 dizzy wired in right would fix our problem? we are gonna eliminate the external coil and ckp sensors to verify that isn't our problems.
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