How to: Clutch replacement
07-22-2004, 10:18 AM
#29
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Re: (Behan)
I mustn't have been around when you first posted this; I must have been working around the time.
Hey Steve can I still order that Helms through you? If I can then I just neeed to workout the cost of postage and pass the money over paypal for you.
Cheers
Hey Steve can I still order that Helms through you? If I can then I just neeed to workout the cost of postage and pass the money over paypal for you.
Cheers
07-22-2004, 11:59 AM
#31
Re: (Behan)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Behan »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">its been about a month since i had it out, but i would say 60 pds maybe. easily lifted by one person. 
</TD></TR></TABLE>
Actually, I would say it is a little over 100lbs.
Steve is a meathead.
</TD></TR></TABLE>
Actually, I would say it is a little over 100lbs.
Steve is a meathead.
07-22-2004, 01:43 PM
#32
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Re: (AndyD)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by AndyD »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
Actually, I would say it is a little over 100lbs.
Steve is a meathead. </TD></TR></TABLE>
[cartman voice] Hey, screw you buddy. [/cartman voice]
Actually, I would say it is a little over 100lbs.
Steve is a meathead.
</TD></TR></TABLE>[cartman voice] Hey, screw you buddy. [/cartman voice]
10-22-2004, 02:13 PM
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Re: (Behan)
Does anyone know this process is any different on a 5th gen?
Also were there any special tools that were required to take the transmission out? Like a ball joint remover?
Also were there any special tools that were required to take the transmission out? Like a ball joint remover?
10-22-2004, 02:23 PM
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Re: (mike1627)
The only "special" tools I use are a bearing puller to separate the taper joint on the knuckle, a clutch alignment tool (often comes with cluth kits), and a cone shaped cap from a gear oil bottle to refil the tranny oil through the vent.
10-22-2004, 02:31 PM
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Re: (flyrod)
Also, If any of you have any trouble getting the tranny back in
which I did, double check the disc after you torque the pp
down. My disc had a tendancy to get a little off center after i torqued the pp
bolts. In order for the tranny to go in all the way, the disc has to
directly in the center
which I did, double check the disc after you torque the pp
down. My disc had a tendancy to get a little off center after i torqued the pp
bolts. In order for the tranny to go in all the way, the disc has to
directly in the center
10-22-2004, 03:56 PM
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Re: (SKDRCR)
LOL. I like the price is right hand poses in the beginning and the progression of "grime" throughout the write-up. You gotta love starting out a job all clean happy; and ending up looking like a pissed off grease monkey in the end. Beers are in order after such a job well done. Thank you for providing the prelude community with quality information.
10-22-2004, 05:16 PM
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Re: How to: Clutch replacement (Sabbotage)
ahh clutches are a piece of cake... the only thing is on the 4th gen prelude at least, once you're tryin to drop the tranny, it's near impossible to maneuver it out. The shifters on top are always catching on a little lip or the front of the tranny is blocked by the front cross member. I think it'd be worth it to just pull the crossmember if you're doing it on a 4th gen.
03-27-2005, 11:06 PM
#40
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Re: How to: Clutch replacement (CarlsPrelude)
Great writeup and back from the dead, but after just finishing my clutch/flywheel install, I wanted to add a few tips for people attempting this with a jack stand and just regular tools and who came across this thread.
1-Dropping the front crossmember helps a lot in finaggling the tranny back onto the block. I recommend using at least 2 jacks to bring the tranny back up to the block.
2-Remove both axles as previously stated, otherwise it is tough to get the intermediate shaft out of the tranny, and be careful not to pull the inner joint away from the intermediate shaft too much, otherwise the spider rollers will come out and get misaligned, and you have to take apart the entire boot and regrease like I did.
3-To pop off the ball joint, jack up the caliper/brake area, so you can slip a socket wrench handle between the LCA and the ball joint and release the jack, then kick the caliper down and the ball joint will pop off with ease-run a search if this doesn't make sense.
4-Remember to pick up some high temp Urea grease from Honda to use on the clutch bearing.
5-When removing those pesky cotter pins, it helps to trim the extended end off a bit, and then use a hammer to pop them out since they will be replaced anyway.
6-When reinstalling the passenger side axle, make sure that the set ring is relatively close fitting around the divet, otherwise it will be very very hard to pop the axle back into the tranny.
Overall the job was a total PITA because I have never done it before, but after doing it, I could do it much much faster, and I hope those tips help whoever uses this thread in the future.
1-Dropping the front crossmember helps a lot in finaggling the tranny back onto the block. I recommend using at least 2 jacks to bring the tranny back up to the block.
2-Remove both axles as previously stated, otherwise it is tough to get the intermediate shaft out of the tranny, and be careful not to pull the inner joint away from the intermediate shaft too much, otherwise the spider rollers will come out and get misaligned, and you have to take apart the entire boot and regrease like I did.
3-To pop off the ball joint, jack up the caliper/brake area, so you can slip a socket wrench handle between the LCA and the ball joint and release the jack, then kick the caliper down and the ball joint will pop off with ease-run a search if this doesn't make sense.
4-Remember to pick up some high temp Urea grease from Honda to use on the clutch bearing.
5-When removing those pesky cotter pins, it helps to trim the extended end off a bit, and then use a hammer to pop them out since they will be replaced anyway.
6-When reinstalling the passenger side axle, make sure that the set ring is relatively close fitting around the divet, otherwise it will be very very hard to pop the axle back into the tranny.
Overall the job was a total PITA because I have never done it before, but after doing it, I could do it much much faster, and I hope those tips help whoever uses this thread in the future.
03-28-2005, 01:15 AM
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Re: How to: Clutch replacement (Behan)
Damn, I have to change out my clutch and I really don't want to, but then again, I'm not trying to pay $300-$400 for someone else to do it
05-14-2005, 07:33 AM
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Re: How to: Clutch replacement (silentblackhat)
Great Writeup! I'll be needing a clutch soon, and after reading this and seeing the pics, I think I'll pay the $325 my buddie's shop wants to change it. 
08-08-2005, 10:29 AM
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Re: How to: Clutch replacement (92hondalude)
So I suppose this works as a tranny swap write-up too? I didn't know it was necessary to take out the tranny to replace the clutch.
Dan
Dan
08-12-2006, 06:10 PM
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Re: How to: Clutch replacement (Behan)
Hey what kinda cluch kit did you use? OEM replacement or aftermarket?Looking to do the same wondering if 150 for (autozone)oem is worth it or 350 for base aftermarket one.
08-12-2006, 09:43 PM
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lots of pics! nice for those without a manual! ill kill you on the grease..work on cars with blown cv boots and ball joint boots while you wipe the sweat away with you greasy *** hands in the north carolina swamp summer...ps u didnt have to take down the radius rod??? my bro (mgags7) is probably the champ of prelude tranny removal.. and its easiest for him to take down the center beam and the passenger side radius rod..but you gotta be careful to count the threads or ur alignment is f'd...but good job man know after one of the shittiest jobs on a lude that its not that bad..plus youll be way faster the next time around...
ps check prostreet online i got an exedy for 280 shipped in the day..theyre 300 now but they have a 10% off and they do free shipping..i thought it was a pretty solid deal..ps dont use the aftermarket throw out bearings..they suck..get an oem honda one...trust me its worth it
ps check prostreet online i got an exedy for 280 shipped in the day..theyre 300 now but they have a 10% off and they do free shipping..i thought it was a pretty solid deal..ps dont use the aftermarket throw out bearings..they suck..get an oem honda one...trust me its worth it
08-12-2006, 10:03 PM
#49
Re: How to: Clutch replacement (mercfwd2)
mercfwd2, dont go to autozone, just go on ebay, find the exedy oem replacement, should be about 100, and great for everyone I know(including myself) that has used it. I bought mine direct from clutch city, who sells them on ebay, just so I could get it faster.