wafflecopter

Hey guys I need your opinions. I have an H23a1 block that needs new crank and I also plan on sleeving and going forged pistons with. I also have an H22a4 head to use. Should I have my sleeves bored to an h22 and go with h22 crank and pistons and boost it that way or should I stick with a boosted H23?

backinblue92

iTrader: (1)

Put em together and do a little h23vtec!

If not and more seriously, I'd avoid having to bore, etc. I'd stay factory either way

wafflecopter

Definitely dont want factory. Im going for 300+ hp and the best way is with a turbo setup but reason I asked about the bore/hone is because ive heard that just slapping the h22 head on h23 block is unrealiable and doesnt last long. Any truth to this and will I need new IM and TB or can I just use bigger injectors.

SpokaneSpeed

If you're gonna spend that kind of money and thinking long-tern, I would HIGHLY recommend just picking up an H22 to build and toss the H23A1.

backinblue92

iTrader: (1)

Yep. So what I was saying..factory. don't bore out the h23, just get a block that's already bored to h22

wafflecopter

What would be the point in buying an h22 block if ive got a block that needs sleeved anyways?

SpokaneSpeed

The H22 block is a better platform to work with. You're going g to spend a lot of time and money making the H22 head conversion work. You're better off starting with an H22 longblock. Have you looked into the H22 head conversion for the H23, and read posts of people who have done it?? You might spend a few mins doing that before you make your decision.

wafflecopter

Im just using an h23 BLOCK the internals i.e crank pistons rods etc. are h22 so my question was should I use my h23 head and build it or use an h22a4 head

SpokaneSpeed

Again, the H23 block w/ H22 head conversion requires a host of mismatched parts to make it work, but if you're dead set on doing that then go for it. I wouldn't do it that way personally but to each his own.

If you do go that route, you're much better off using the H22 head vs the H23 head. The H23 non-VTEC head is garbage and seriously lacks aftermarket support.

snobordboy

Ok, I don't know where you are getting your information from on this, but it is WRONG!

The H23A1 and H22A/ H22A1 blocks are IDENTICAL!

Same bore, same height, every single damn thing is the same except the stamp on the front of the block, which just denotes which crank, rods, and pistons Honda built it with.

Using an H23 block or an H22 block doesnt matter, you use an H22 head, and all the H22 timing belt/ water pump/water tube parts.

SpokaneSpeed

Not saying they're a lot different but they aren't identical. You'll need more than just the H22 belt, w-pump, and water jackets as well.. I can assure you of that. Look it up.

https://honda-tech.com/honda-prelude...iendly-510617/

backinblue92

iTrader: (1)

Personally, I'd trust snobordboi on this one. I've never seen so many engines taken, apart and swapped. And possibly blown too but I'm guessing adam holds the record for blown h22s. Sorry adam. Though I will say I thought the h23 and h22 starters were different.

I thought the op wanted to bore his h23 to accept larger aftermarket h22 pistons. Which is why I said just go with an h22. They're the same size cylinders as it is. Idk I think I read his intent wrong.

crazes

Yes your right to a point.

The blocks are identical between the H22a h22a1 and h23a1 the h23a and h22a4 are different blocks because of the main bearings specifically.

Internally the h22a/a1 are 90mm stroke while the h23a1 is 95mm strokes. The pumps and all that is the exact same. Now the heads between these motors are completely different on the intakes and exhaust, Not the water jackets and all that stuff. They're all the same completely.

snobordboy

Ok I was keeping it narrowed down to this specific situation, hence why I said the H23A1, H22A, and H22A1 blocks are identical, as they are all 50 mm main, std trans blocks.

The H23A and H22A4, and maybe some later H22A blocks, are 55mm mains, which is different, and the ATTS blocks are different.

I have personally hand built 3 H23 frankenstein engines, and torn apart many more H22 and H23 engines of various variations. I know what is involved and how it goes together.

If you want to split hairs, there are other things that Honda does differently between the different setups, i.e. oil squirters, baffle plates, vtec oil port to the head. But these are all parts that bolt up to the bare block.

snobordboy

Oh, and to get back on topic for the OP, if you want to build an engine to sustain higher power levels, might as well buy an H22 with a good crank, and just sleeve that block and go.

That way you are not buying a crank that you are then having to do more work to ensure the main bores match your block perfectly, just doing the sleeves, rods and pistons.

By using a complete H22, you avoid having to hunt down random little bits that may not have been included with the head, and for the most part you are making up for the lose of displacement by boosting. Many people feel more comfortable revving the 90 mm stroke crank higher as well.

1funryd

And to add to this conversation, Honda built the BlueTop H23a vtec with Factory H22 head and H23a1 bottom end with the auto tentioner for the timing belt.

So its not an unreliable motor, its in how you build your own version of this.

The H23a vtec did not come with oil squirters and it was not really a necessity since its rpm range is lower than the standare H22 range.

So reliability is not an issue.