dre2day

This last week I have been goggling and reading on Honda tech about the mysterious random misfire code that I have, I am still stuck on it and now am requesting advice.

Info on car:
Oil - Mobile 1 10W30 High Mileage (used since bought car at 109,000)
Oil is changed every 3000 miles
Gas - (Chevron premium 91 since bought car)
Current Mileage - 170,000
No previous problems except minor oil coming from timing and trans side of engine.

Recently rebuilt power steering pump and replaced all fluids in vehicle.

What I've Done/Replaced:
Roter
Cap
Plugs
Wiresets
Octane booster (I usually use 91 but ever since I filled up at a Chevron I don't normally go to this has been my nightmare)

Tested:
Fuel pressure test (was 7-10psi higher then service manual states)
Compression test all cylinders (WOT & fuses removed - all ranged from 235-240)
Tested EGR valve solenoid (service manual says to replace - ohm is not in specs)
Tested almost all lines for EGR system - everything passed except valve above
Ignition coil tested (out of specs according to service manual - ohms too low @ a&c terminals)

I plan on checking my valve clearance tonight or tomorrow. Any suggestions on what else I should check? I don't want to pay $300 for a new EGR, Coil, etc if these aren't actually the culprits.

dre2day

I finished the valve clearance, took me 2 freaking hours with only a bent wrench I could find.

A few where off but other then that they were ok. When I started the car it did sound better however it still throws a random misfire code when I am idling. While driving i have not received a code since the valve adjustment.

While in the engine I noticed my timing belt can move left to right with my bare hands, shouldn't it be taught?

I went to auto zone after the valve adjustment and an employee said to use syefoam in the gas and vacuum lines, well i tried it in front of the store and a huge cloud of smoke eventually came spewing out of the tail pipe. Still getting the code at idle though.

Also checked the coil with a new one and for some reason terminals A & C never have continuity like the service manual states, even on the new one!

Employee at autozone says my spark-plug wires shouldn't touch at all, but they've always touched because there is no room to space them out!

Come on guys...where are all the responses?

F20B_accord

soo whats ur questions? like what are you asking exactly??

vinuneuro

It's usually clogged egr metering ports in the intake manifold that causes this:

https://honda-tech.com/forums/honda-prelude-4/no-more-3k-hesitation-better-gas-milage-smoother-partial-thottle-response-2016969/

dre2day

Yes, you are correct and cleaning my EGR and the ports has removed the misfire problem YAY!!!...however now there is a transmission code that has popped up P0740, P0700.

I will be searching on a solution but wouldn't mind your feedback.

P0700 - Automatic Transaxle
P0740 - A/T Lockup Clutch System Malfunction

Freeze Frame:
DTC for which Freeze Frame was Stored P0700
Fuel System 1 Status Closed Loop
Fuel System 2 Status Not Supported
Calculated LOAD Value 70.20 %
Engine Coolant Temp 203.00 °F
Short Term Fuel Trim - Bank 1 -0.78 %
Long Term Fuel Trim - Bank 1 -6.25 %
Intake Manifold Absolute Pressure 21.02 inHg
Engine RPM 2,563.00 rpm
Vehicle Speed Sensor 55.30 mph
Intake Air Temperature 131.00 °F
Absolute Throttle Position 22.35 %

lazy10123

AM HAVING A SIMMILAR PROBLEM WITH MY PRELUDE 97 BASE AM GETTING MISFIRE CODES BUT WHEN I PULL OUT THE SPARK PLUG WIRE FROM CYLINDER 1 THE CAR DOES NOT REACT BUT FOR THE 234 CYLINDER THE CAR WANTS TO DIE OUT. WHAT COULD BE THE PROBLEM? I CHANGED THE INJECTORS SPARKPLUGS, SPARKPLUG WIRES AND DISY CAP AND ROTOR? IF ANYONE CAN HELP THANKS

dre2day

The codes would help if you have them. Have you tried getting the wire for spark plug 1 and a spark plug and testing to see if it fires? Did you put the sparkplug wires on the dis in the correct order? Any information on how and when it started?

lazy10123

OK WELL I DONT KNOW THE CODES RIGHT OF THE TOP OF MY HEAD BUT I GOT THEM CHECKED OUT AND IT CAME OUT TO BE THAT AM MISFIRE IN CYLINDER 124 THIS JUST STARTED LAST WEEK WHILE I WAS ON THE FREEWAY AND WHEN I GOT OFF THE CAR STARTED ACTING UP AND THE CHECK ENGINE LIGHT TURNED ON CAR HAS 135K ON THE MOTOR. WHEN I PULL THE SPARK PLUG WIRE IN CYLINDER 1 IT SPARKS BUT THE CAR DOES NOT SEEM TO REACT TO IT EVEN IF I DISCONECT THE INJECTOR EIGHER BUT EVERY OTHER CYLINDER REACTS WHEN I MESS WITH IT

dre2day

So it has a miss code on 1, 2, & 4.

I don't know why it wouldn't react to the #1 spark-plug or injector being disconnected. Lets make sure of something you have an h22a4 right??

The spark plugs from facing the front of the car would be 4, 3, 2, 1.

1 being the one on the drivers side of the vehicle, have you tried taking a voltage meter to the socket for the injector and checking to see if voltage is applied?

lazy10123

YA I HAVE A H22A4 AND YES THE 1 CYLINDER IS ON THE DRIVER SIDE OF THE CAR AND I HAVE CHECKED THE VOTAGE AND ITS ALL GOOD AT FIRST I WAS ONLY GETTING MISFIRE CODE ON CYLINDER 1 THEN AFTER LIKE 3 DAYS I CHECKED IT AGAIN AND I GOT MISFIRE ON 124 I DONT KNOW WHAT ELSE IT COULD BE COULD IT BE THE SPARK PLUG WIRES ARE WRONG ON THE DISY WHATS THE ORDER ISNT IT 1 ON THE BOTTOM LEFT THEN 2 NEXT TO IT AND 3 ON TOP LEFT AND 4 ON TOP RIGHT ?

dre2day

Before dropping money in new parts look at the service manual and you'll have to figure when it misfires. ie at low rpm, hi rpm, rpm with load etc. It will suggest which areas to check first. For my situation it said to check fuel, ignition, egr, etc. Check your fuel pressure, change filter if needed, then move on to the next section in the service book. If all else fells then you can try the egr port cleaning.

Kronn 98SH

Unstick your CAPSLOCK key. Then remove it from your keyboard.

lazy10123

CAR ONLY SEEMS TO MISFIRE AT IDLE RPMS OVER 2OOO CAR IS FINE CAR DOES NOT HAVE A HARD IDLE EITHER THO IT SEEMS NORMAL ADSEPT MOTOR SHAKES A BIT WHEN I COME TO A STOP CHECK ENGINE LIGHT FLASHES AND WHEN I START TO MOVE IT JUST STAYES ON AND DOES NOT FLASH ......I CHECK COMPRESSION TEST ON PISSTIONS AND IT WAS 150 ALL AROUND

dre2day

Yes please remove the caps.

Kinda sounds like what my car was doing. Fine at higher rpms but misfired at low idle, you can get a can of seafoam from auto store or walmart and suck half the can up the brake booster line, make sure to have rpms high while sucking the fluid, turn car off and let it sit for 5 mins. Start turning over car and rev'ing, large amount of smoke will come plowing out of the *** of your lude. This might work for you or will help a little, but you should pull your egr off and look under it to see how bad the build up is and think about doing the egr port cleaning.

lazy10123

ok cool thanks ill try that

dre2day

Pour remaining sea foam can into gas tank. Also note the car will try to stall when you are sucking the seafoam up the booster line, that's why you will need to keep RPM's high.

lazy10123

ok thanks would you recamend doing a egr port cleaning anyways just to make the car run better ?

dre2day

Yea your gas milage should increase when you do the cleaning. Also you might need to check you valve clearance/adjustment. Both can help solve misfire problems

lazy10123

one last thing i forgot to ask do you think i could of messed it up becuse of nos i was using on the car could it be that ....could it of clogged the egr ports or so ?

lazy10123

valve clearence is done by taking the valve cover off right and just tighting the rockers right or how ?

dre2day

https://honda-tech.com/forums/honda-prelude-4/diy-h22a-valve-adjustment-618786/

I know nothing of nos but it could have damaged something but really idk

lazy10123

ok well thanks for the help ill let you know how it goes and how much i spend to fix it hahaha