KashMillien

Sup guys, I know its been discussed in the past but not with my setup I dont think. By set up I mean my clutch kit. I gotta new stage 1 w/ light flywheel(10lbs). Im well are that light flywheel improves torque but decreases top end speed. That being said, Im debating on getting a Skunk2 or Euro R intake mani. Ive heard that skunk 2 is better for top end and euro is better for mid range power. Since I already have light flywheel which gives more power quicker but takes away from top end down the road, is it better to get S2 intake mani which helps top end, to sort of balance out the tq/speed distribution? or does it not work like that? lol either way I wanna get some feedback and ideas from you guys. I want to have great acceleration but not tryna takeaway all my top end. Doing minor street racing in the near future, possibly some weekend track drag race. I heard bout the rosko guy and I also wanna know if the Intake manis are direct replacement or if there needs to be some minor modifications. Stock bb6 except for aem cai. Putting In full exhaust system(heads2tip) + TB w/ intake mani. MAYBE up to some Stg1 BC cams ina year. Idk, kinda new to the game. Lmk what yall think. Thanks again

sublimeluder

Hey guy im not too knowledgeable about IM's but I'll try to help. The s2 is a direct replacement no modding necessary and is cheaper. However it really needs to breath to see any gains. Bigger tb,header,exhaust and of coarse bigger cams always helps. As u stated the s2 will loose low end torque as it had no butterflies. The euro r is more expensive as it needs modded to be plug and play.

sublimeluder

Sorry im trying to post on this retarded phone and it keeps kicking me off. I'll let one of the more knowledgeable members chime in. I don't wanna tell ya wrong. I'd take TQ over HP any day. Oh and Please excuse my poor grammar

v4lu3s

I am not sure what kind of nonsense you are spouting off about the clutch. Decreased weight on a fixed part of the drivetrain will decreased parasitic losses, leading to increased torque and horsepower to the ground.

With the lack of mods you have so far I would not get either and just use the stock manifold, save your money, then when you want to get cams get a manifold and Hondata/Crome and tune the car. Me personally I would go with the Euro-R manifold, i have used it and like it, plus it is possible to set it up to be emissions legal on the stock ecu with some work, though if you are not creative and experienced it may be better to pay someone to do it. Too often I have seen the Skunk2 manifold lose power on near stock engines with no tuning, while the Euro R will support the egr and stuff, it is significantly different than the stock manifold that it also benefits from tuning, though I have not seen them cause power loss the way the Skunk2 does.

KashMillien

Thanks man. I was sort of leading towards the euro even before I put this thread up because I want that tq lol

KashMillien

Yea man. I know. Im doing the full exhaust before anything. And Im gonna get the tb with the intake mani. This thread was for later down the road because I know Im gonna have a few mods by the time I wanna actually get my IM. Im gonna see what rosko does cause I hear from everyone he's the guy when it comes to IMs. Thanks though man

v4lu3s

be aware that the skunk2 will not work with the obd2 ecu well at all since it removes the egr and you will throw codes for it. the euro r can be made to work with it, but of course the sock ecu is mapped for the stock manifold with butterflies. if you want to avoid the egr codes make sure you get the parts to make the euro r work with an egr.

KashMillien

Word, I hear ya. I was thinkin bout gettin euroR with all the parts for it from That guy Rosko.

thirsk66

iTrader: (2)

Its not rocket science I have a full euro r swap and all I ever do to pass smog is put my egr back in hook up the vacuum lines and im set to go with the factory h22a4 ecu. I would recommend going through Rosko Racing and purchasing the euro r manifold from him. He can give you everything you need to run it all plug n play. Like the iacv adapter and the fuel rail adapter plus the egr cover plate so you can run the h22a4 fuel rail and injectors.

KashMillien

Yepp, thats what I heard. Hes who to go to. What did that whole set up run you? prob close to a grand I imagine

thirsk66

iTrader: (2)

No I paid for a full h22 euro-r swap with LSD transmission it was $2700 shipped to my door.

KashMillien

Well yea, I dont need no tranny. You know the separate price for the Intake mani? Im hearing its close to a grand for the full set up.

thirsk66

iTrader: (2)

Where are you getting a grand from its $575 for the intake manifold with all the adapter plates and goodies on it.
http://www.roskoracing.com/Euro_R_Basic.html

KashMillien

Oh lol, I thought I saw it somewhere for more. Thanks for letting me know

HondaSolH2b

I just picked up a euro r mani for 50 bucks unmodded. I reached out to rosko but couldnt get an answer. I got the pde head. wondering if it will need to be cut to bolt up. (New on HT, sorry to post jack)

rorik

A flywheel is a rotating mass connected to the crankshaft. It takes energy to accelerate that mass, or to increase its rotational velocity. Once that mass is spinning at a steady speed, it neither absorbs or gives up energy. As the motor accelerates in a given gear, the flywheel is absorbing energy, since it is accelerating. Upon upshifting, a percentage of the energy is returned to the drivetrain as the next gear slows that mass. The percentage not returned is dissipated in clutch/tire slippage.

v4lu3s, a flywheel does not contribute to parasitic losses. It's just not heavy enough, if it were, it would be heavy enough to wear the crankshaft's main bearings out. You think honda oem flywheels are heavy, look at flywheels on diesel engines. Steady state operation=no parasitic loss other than from increased friction, which is negligible, ie, not readable.

Kashmillien, if you think about what I explained, you'll realize that a flywheel cannot alter different parts of the powerband relative to acceleration, it only alters the whole powerband in a linear fashion. In other words if a lighter flywheel helps the car pull from 2000-5000rpm, it will also help it pull from 5-8. A lighter flywheel will take less energy to accelerate, allowing the car to put more power down as it revs up, but will impart less energy into the tranny on the next upshift. The effect is more pronounced the faster the motor gains rpm, in other words, a lighter flywheel makes a much bigger difference in 1st gear than 5th. 5th gear, a lighter flywheel has no benefit.

The way to size the weight of the flywheel is really this. If the car is a pain to drive without stalling, the flywheel is too light. If you touch the gas and the motor revs to 4000rpm while you're just trying to creep up a driveway, it is too light. The flywheel is too heavy when you can chirp the tires hard with a quick upshift not from power, but just from the mass of the spinning weight imparting its energy back into the tranny.

When you get into forced induction, a heavier flywheel makes life easier on the tranny, by smoothing out each power pulse better.