4doorH22

Stock H22A4 with aspiration aided by AEM CAI (2.5" pipe intended for the Accord's F22, I wonder if the 3.0" 5th gen Prelude pipe would make a difference) and Greddy header and exhaust. 161.5 HP and 135.1 ft-lbs. It's running way rich. Instead of the happy-Honda a/f ratio of 13, mine topped out at 11.5 around 5,500 rpm and all downhill from there to 11 at peak HP. So I hope there's a few more ponies to be had after I get the V-AFC installed to get a better a/f ratio.
So, 161.5 to the wheels, is that about average for a I/H/E equipped H22A4?
Thanks for opinions.
I'll scan the graphs when I get home from work.


[Modified by 4doorH22, 11:40 AM 9/6/2001]

Big James

That is usually about it. Maybe some fuel tuning would get a couple more ponies. I normally see between 163, and 170.

4doorH22

Yeah I was hoping for 170. Like importreview's dyno shows, your GSR ECU makes more top end than the Lude's P13.

bgod

those numbers are low if you're running an obd1 ecu. i've seen plenty of 97-up preludes run 165hp to the wheels with i/h/e.

you should be in the high 160's or the low 170's. ball park of course.

bb6h22a

..my 99 w/ dc 4-2-1, stock airbox w/ k&n filter, and greddy SP exhaust. Stock cat, and 17*7 215*45*17 wheel/tire combination, put down 166 hp and 138 torque!

BluLuder

Sounds right, maybe a few ponies low with the mods you have.
A/F ratio is extremely important to be running optimal.
I ran 140 HP & 136 TQ in my Prelude Si.
with mods.
my buddy ran 168 HP in his 99' Prelude base
with exhaust, wrapped headers & VTEC Controller.

976

I would recommend a tune-up. Known fact is that at max a total of 8 horses can be lost with worn out spark plugs, wires, cap and rotor. Just a thought!

Mike P.

but this motor has only 5000 miles on it... I'm willing to bet that tuning of a V-AFC will help it out a good bit.

4doorH22

New plugs, new plug wires, new cap and rotor, hell, the entire distributor is brand new. 161.5 HP. How disapointing. Perhaps it's choking on the 2.5 inch intake pipe. This would explain the extreme richness of the fuel mix?...

SAE HP&ft-lbs


Is this rich or is this rich?



[Modified by 4doorH22, 8:36 PM 9/6/2001]

0Mike95lude

I'd be willing to bet that yes the intake is costing you a little power and definately doesn't help in keeping it lean, but ...how much, you can't really say until you actually test...I'd get a 3'' cai for sure.

Meateater

i think that is a little low especially with OBDI like you mentioned. Im running a the a 97 prelude h22a4 with 36000 miles on it and havent had my 30000 mile tune up yet, so im assuming i could squeeze 1-2 more hp out with a good tune. I have AEM CAI, DC 4-2-1, TYPE S cams, and gears running 170.6 HP with 136.4 tq to the wheels. Im assuming my cams gave me about 7 hp to the wheels so i had about 163 hp to the wheels with just intake and headers( I dont think headers did ****).

ImportReview

Wait a minute. What kind of Prelude is IT EXACTLY.

And what bolt ons do you have with it? 161 is normal for a stock motor with like a header. If you guys didn't notice, the DC header makes like 1 HP or none on a prelude. THe intake is the biggest difference.

Cam gears help.

With header, intake and cam geas, 165-166 is normal.

YOur not hitting 170 without OBD1 or a better exhuast and cat.

Jeff

4doorH22

It's not a Prelude, it's a hybrid Accord.
The motor is a 2000 H22A4 (<5,000 miles) with OBD I conversion, AEM 2.5 inch cold air intake (intended for F22 not H22), Greddy header and exhaust. I hope I can pull 170 with a 3 inch intake (not that bigger is always better, but the AEM for this motor is 3") and VAFC (sitting on bedroom floor) to lean out the mix. Probably not though.
Crower cam timing sprockets will be next engine mod.

thatpreludeguy

5000 miles? That motor is still not broken in yet. I mean to drive hard yeah but I'd be willing to bet it makes some more power when it breaks in better at say 15-20k miles.

JG Luder

yeah, 10k+ miles and that shing will open up. You need to ***** it. loosen that bitch up REAL good. hahahaha...

Import Review is right.. the DC headers will give you SOME power, but not exactly what you're looking for. You need to have something that breathes a touch more, something more along the lines of how the Mugen works. (I can say this cause I have a damn DC.)

The intake will be nice, but I'd play with fuel before cam timing. Anyone else agree? Maybe an FPR to go with that VAFC?

So, anyone care to guess what I'm gonna put down to the wheels at the NOPI dyno contest? Jeff?

4doorH22

I dunno what your extensive mod list is, but you're hoping for 250 WHP, right?
I'll buy everyone a round of beer if you break 230 at the wheels, all motor.

JG Luder

At NOPI I'm aiming for 220 to the ground... in the end (once it's all tuned) I'm shooting for 250 to the wheels, yes.

You really should click my link before offering to buy beer.

4doorH22

Errr I meant e-beer

JG Luder

lol... that list a little too long for you?

migo

....with regular bolt on I put down 178hp and 138tq-I had a ****ed up Intake Manifold that didn't give me a true reading, so I never messed with Cam gears or Ignition timing.....

JG Luder if your going to Nopi National, I'll see you then..

JG Luder

hell yeah, just look for me, I'm in Green C right now. (Subject to change pending where THE REST OF MY FRICKIN CLUB IS!!!!!!!!!!!)

4doorH22

Yeah this sucker's not even broken in yet...

JG Luder

the header is SO pretty!!!!! BUT: Your motor is broken in, just not "comfortable" yet.

Ever wear a new set of boots? They take a week to break in, but after 6 months, those bastards are soooooooooooo comfortable. It takes a motor up to 10k sometimes to fully blow out all the power.

This is just something that I've noticed twice with mine. After 10k is when it starts to really haul.

drift

is it JDM or USDM motor? if JDM, then ya might wanna try reducing your timing or compression a bit... the JDM motors' compression is high enough to set off the knock sensor on US 93 octane. the knock sensor reacts by flooding the motor with fuel to quench detonation.