withoutlimitslude

Iv'e been hearing alot about these three motors putting power down but which is the strongest and most reliable? Franknstien(h23 head on a f22 bottom end), G23(h22 head on a f23 bottom end with k20 pistons), or the F-bomb(a pumped up f22a1)?

f22vtecswap

i am currently assembling my setup, it is an h23 block with an h22 vtec head. ill let you know how it turns out soon. i did this because the h23 was a solid deck for strengh and i got it cheap, it has the same size cylinder and the h22 because the block is the same cast but has the 95mm f22 stroke so we will see how it holds up at higher rpms. should produce some good results. overall cost for everything rebuilt and brand new about 2000

h23vtechlude

hey im doing this swap ryt now also. Im just wondering what other parts you need to get it runnig good...i got the h22 head the intake manifold but i dont know what else i need because right now it has the h23 head and im going to be doing the same setup as you h23 block with h22 head so im not sure if all the parts are the same size from the h22-h23 so if theres anyhting else i need please let me know thanks

mattsnooz

It won't hold up in the higher RPM's without balancing from what I've read. You will only be able to safely rev it like an h23 (h23vtec), after all it is still the h23 bottom end correct?!!

preluderemis

this would make alot of sense scince ive seen so many h23 spin rod bearings

DaInFaMMuS1

the h23vtec is more similar to the H22 than the H23 non vtec, FRM walls and all. It is missing the oil squirters though, but those can be inserted. Maybe its the nonvtec H23's you've seen spinning bearings or the h23 bottom ends w/h22 heads.

f22vtecswap

the h23a1 is the block im using, its the DOHC non-vtec. came in the 92-96 prelude. it is the EXACT same cast as the h22a including the FRM cylinder walls. the differnece is the h23a1 and h22a is the h23 has the f22 crank and rods, (a longer stroke) which could make the cylinders egg shaped faster and possible spin bearings but i used a very reputable machine shop so we will see how it holds up. also no piston squirters in h23a1. as far as parts, you have a couple things to consider, do you run the h22 or h23 timing components? and compression.. as far as timing i converted the block to the auto tensioner and used h22 oil and water pump new from honda with unhooked balancer shafts. as far as compression this setup with a factory gasket puts you at 9.31:1 which doesnt support the combination in my eyes. sooo i bought a one layer head gasket from dh-racing.com and decked the .010 in. waiting on gasket and head studs to come in and we will see how she runs. im expecting a torqueY BEAST that i should be able to run up to 7500 with peace of mind. criticism welcome!

f22vtecswap

decked the head .010in* costs 55 bucks

h23vtechlude

so i should do work to the head before i put it on because i want it set up the right way so i dont soin bearings n stuff and what kind of head work are you talkin about?

withoutlimitslude

it's always a good idea to replace the stock rod bolts with arp 2000 rod bolts b4 u make a non vtec motor to vtec. you need the vtec head for sure, u can use the old intake manifold u need the h22 timing gear and you need the h22 water jacket(that long pipe that is behind the motor) its also good to get the h22 pistons if you can you'll make more power. dont deck the head that will give you cheap power but it will decrease the life span of that motor(trust me on that one) and dont convert the timing components to auto that will cost u in the end just buy the parts that u need to keep your motor manual tensioner i've already have gone through three auto cuz they suck good luck h23 vtecs are fast motors

dk4ever

Who makes aftermarket rod bolts?

Brice.Hayden

iTrader: (15)

arp

h23vtechlude

ight kool thanks alot guys i was getting arp head studs for the car also but the block i have right now h23 has j.e pistons 9:1 and crower rods this is really my first motor im building so i dont know to much about it but i have been doing alot of research and is it better to kee the h23 manifold or the h22 because im getting the h22 with the head and i also have the disributor from the h23 which chould bolt on to the h22 also correct? anyways i need the whole waterpump kit with the timing and all now so thats what im going to invest in...do you guys recommend i change anything since my block is built?..oh and it was also bored out not sure if thats in the head or the block...but yea let me know if you guys suggest anything thanks

f22vtecswap

how is decking the head cheap power? if your going to forged pistons and sleeving the block why not just build the h22? i did this setup because it is brand new and costed me as much as a used complete h22. i know it may not last 100000 miles but it will for a year or two. as far as the distributor i beleive the vtec is a different setup. and also .010 is not a lot to deck a head. but yes when you deck it a lot you increase the chance of overheating and warping blah blah, but so does boring the block. the difference is there are plently of heads to pick up but rule of thumb is dont deck the block

withoutlimitslude

it all depends on what your going 4 like people say if its fast and cheap its not reliable. im going 4 fast and reliable so you wont see me at red lobster but you wont find me on the side of the road. but yeah decking the head does give you some good numbers one of my friends has a 86 crx and all it has done is intake exhaust and a decked head and he's running 15.1 single non vtec!

f22vtecswap

honestly if i were you, pick up a f22 vtec block so you can bore it and put a forged high dome piston and run 12:1 comp. its a really cheap block to build and if you bore it 1mm run a k20 piston. but i dont think i will have any problems with my setup however i have decided to find arp rod bolts. for my setup, get the arp studs cuz the factory bolts stretch and my little head deck will be fine. to prove my point, looking in the honda service manual which you must be at a honda dealership to have..honda says you can resuface the head .008in which i am only .002 away. just as reliable as factory

ALLMOTOR EK

has any1 done the f23 block h22 head? any problems? Got a b16 in my car now and thinkin about goin w/ a jdm h22a longblock w/ the qsd kit. But i wouldnt mind doin f23 block for some more power.

f22vtecswap

o man someone has done thisssetup in a hatch, its in a magazine he has the entire writeup. weld up a couple oil drain ports and some funky with the water pump lol. look for it online. use k20 forged high dome pistons. guy put down around 250whp before cams tune...i have the magazine ill look for it. pretty good budget build

ismkv8s

I have two of your three now and have multiples of them. H23 vtec is great 7800 max rpm, but the g23 is much better more power just at a lower rpm. h23 prelude and g23 odyssey.

jdm99ek

There is actually an article in the Feb issue of Import Tuner, i just picked it up. The guy put a G23 in an EF Hatch, its got all the specs on how he did it and all. its dynoed at 248HP and 181 lbs/tourqe. Using stricly stock honda parts, F23, H22, K20a2, etc. you should pick up the mag and check it out.

I think i might roll that way with my EK. seems to be a good bang for the buck. about $1200 for 248hp... damn right. thats 1/4 the price of a stock K20 and can run with it, maybe even roll right past it.

508Honda

Only problem is you have to cut your hood if your going to throw into the EG and EK not sure bout anything else though. The H23 Block sits weird in the engine bay compared to a b16 or something similar. More tilt back, personally im going to scoop it so i can keep stock hood and not repaint. Screen the inside and I should be pretty good.

eg2ek2dc

i have and i loved it

sauceja

Wow. If you want higher compression then look towards JDM H22 pistons or even Type S pistons.

http://www.sparkracing.com has H23 rods for a decent price and similiar to Eagles.

You need lower timing gear from H22 and on F23 block you need to remove the water pump pulley and press an H22 pulley in its place.

Stay away from auto tensioners. That is the beauty of the H23 non vtec is that it came with the manual tensioners.

The H23Vtec is a fun motor and the G23 is a good boost motor unless you put different pistons in it. You can bore an F23 out to 87mm and put K24 pistons in it also. But F23 blocks do not like sleeves for some reason. Someone on here ruined like 5 of them. Forget who but they were one of the better ones.
Endyn or Darton can't remember.

Do some more research on these.