THE END OF ALL Idle Surge - Bounce - etc Problems Thread
To fix your super ghey idle problems:
1) Take a very good look at your intake manifold, make SURE every single vacuum nipple has a vac line connected to it. Follow each of those lines, checking for cracks in them, and make sure they are soundly plugged into something.
2) Get a can of carb cleaner and spray out the throttle body well to clean it and make sure there is no buildup that is holding the throttle plate open some, that would cause the idle bounce. NOTE: If you have recently tried adjusting your throttle or gotten a new throttle body and the idle bounces, your throttle plate is most likely not closing fully, try giving some slack on the cable.
3) I know its tough to see, but there are two holes on the left of the inside of that throttle body, remove the intake tube, start the engine, while it is doing the idle bounce, use your finger to plug the lower left hole completely. If the bounce stops, your FITV is bad. See below.
4) If that didn't fix the bounce, try unplugging the IACV, if that stops the bounce, then of course you have a bad IACV. You can try using some carb cleaner and spraying it out.
^thats the egr valve
5) Take the egr valve off, clean it and clean the ports.
6) Try bleeding your coolant system, I have yet to see this problem actually make a car idle bounce, but Gavzter below (thanks) added this suggestion so I suppose he has seen this problem before, either way it cannot hurt. Normally when a coolant system has air in it, it will just make the engine run slightly rough because it makes the water pump cavitate when the air gets down there.
To bleed the coolant, first, make sure the car is cold, completely.
Take the radiator cap off, if you can fill it any, fill it almost completely to the brim.
Try squeezing the radiator hoses and moving them a bit without making all the coolant gush out of the open radiator, to try and work any air bubbles out, remember air will be at the highest point in the hose, so work it away from there. After that is done, top it off again, cap the radiator.
Start the car, and use a 12mm socket to open the bleeder nipple on the thermostat housing, it is located on the left side of the valve cover towards the back of the block. You may want to put a towel or rag there to catch the coolant as it sprays out.
Leave it open until the car is good and hot, and then wait for there to be a completely constant spray of coolant, that means all the air has worked its way out for now.
Let the car cool completely, when it is completely (I mean completely) cool again open the radiator back up, you will need to top off the coolant.
Done. Check it again a few hours after your next drive.
7) If you get to this step, you most likely have a vacuum leak somewhere, reach your hands all around the throttle body gasket, and the IAB plate, it has gaskets both on top and bottom, see if you can feel any air moving. Also, it will be tough to get at, but the intake manifold gasket itself is the last option.
If none of this fixes your problem, post up in the thread
To fix a bad FITV:
Firstly, the FITV is the thing you see bolted to the bottom of the throttle body in the picture above.
Take the intake tube off.
Disconnect the two coolant hoses running to the throttle body, the first one is the front hose in the picture above, the other one comes out of the FITV on the bottom right as pictured above.
Get a 1/4" drive ratchet and a 10mm short socket, and loosen the 3 10mm bolts that hold the FITV to the bottom of the TB, the first two can be seen above, the third is a little further back.
Take the valve off if it already didn't fall off, make sure that all 3 o-rings are still on the valve, if not, make sure you catch them before they fall off the bottom of the throttle body, you may have to peel them off.
Get a small philips head screwdriver, and take the gold metal plate off the back of the valve.
Screw down the white outer ring as far as you can, honestly there is no standard good tool to use for this, my dad happened to have some funky tool that fit it just right, either way, just screw the ring down, if you get it all the way down, back out half a turn, the nipple in the middle should have at least 1/8" of play.
note for people using a euro R manifold. if the wrong throttle body is used both the IAC passage and FITV passage will leak need the bottom of the throttle body because the flange on the EUro R is shorter. use a type r TB or s2k TB.
good thread matt.
F22B2/H22 DOHC VTEC Hybrid Ha, What's a G series?
You can bolt any H head on any F block (excluding f20c) and vice versa.
Im trying to get back into the community, been real busy
BUY my damn K24 block!
I couldn't figure out why my idle is surging, so for a temporary fix ... I adjusted throttle cable to 1700 rpm at idle. Now it's not that annoying at a red light anymore. I know, its not a fix .. just a bypass method, but 1 day i'll fix the surging. I think I just helped some of you guys out with the annoying idle surge, temporary of course.
thanks for the write up and picture. when i get my helms i will do all this and my idle surge hopefully will be over. I know that i have some build up in the throttle body so i would not be suprised if that fixed my idle problem.
Re: THE END OF ALL Idle Surge - Bounce - etc Problems Thread (mgags7)
Sorry to highjack: This isn't about this topic (which is a very good writeup BTW, considering I just did all that about a month ago )
mgags7: I'm can't seem to email you in regards to some of the parts you are selling, and I can't reply to those topics??? (my log on doesn't seem to be able to??) could you email me ( Laoryn35@gmail.com ) with the info on the M2F4 you are selling, as well as where you are at (state) so I could figure out shipping?
Re: THE END OF ALL Idle Surge - Bounce - etc Problems Thread (street_ride14)
tried everything here.... even removed the nylon washers from my intake manifold. I screw in the idle screw all the way and nothing changes. I block the port to the IACV with minor change. The only way i've been able to see it run decent is by unplugging the TPS, but the revs just fly up. I've replaced the TB gasket with the correctly fitting one, the FITV has been removed and blocked off, no air is going to it (there is no vacuum on the port in the TB). I cleaned the IACV, tested the wires on just about every sensor. I'm running a GSR'd CRX with a P28. Everything on the car is pretty much new, as i have replaced many of the parts; the motor is also freshly rebuilt. I'm not sure what else to test at this point..
I'm surging from 1000-1500 btw.
update: i unplug the IACV and it bounces way less, between like 1000-1200ish
Re: THE END OF ALL Idle Surge - Bounce - etc Problems Thread (mgags7)
When screwing in the white plastic piece inside the FITV, is it a problem if there is not a 1/8" play, but more like 1/4" play to the gold nipple. I have got it so there is around a 1/4" but i cannot get the white plastic piece to go down further without damaging it. Also what will happen if I do damage that white piece, by like scraping a small chunk of it off. When I was turning the white piece the screwdrive i used took off a small chunk.
After fixing the FITV (as per these instructions) and then reinstalling it the problem continues, even though the idol proplem had stopped when I covered the holes inside of the throttle body, what does this mean?
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