I would go with the Dorman if you arent set to get an OEM. I have a Dorman crank pulley, and while it is not quite as nice as the OEM, it is solid. You HAVE to have a harmonic balancer on whatever pulley you decide to get. It is the strip of rubber between the inner portion and the outer, and without it your bearings will be worn quickly. Dorman has it, OEM has it, but those underdrive lightweight pulleys do not.
i got an issue here. the mains on the block and caps have some wear on it. some are okay and some are pretty deep. i don't think i can just put new bearings in. how will a shop fix this? any suggestions on what i should do?:
did you align hone the engine after installing the main studs? maybe that caused the problem?
i'd never align hone the block before. i went to two different machine shop and they can't do it because their drilling thing is too big (V8's i'm guessing). my cylinder walls are still good. now i still need oil squirters and crank pulley (pending) and new custom cometic headgasket. i'm thinking that i might need a thicker head gasket if the crank moves up after the align honing. i got the torque specs from the tech support in case anyone needs it:
The studs will go into the block hand tight only. For the main studs,
follow the manufacturers torque sequence and tighten the nut in three
equal steps to 85 ft. lbs. if using 30 wt. oil as thread lubricant. Note
that if the block has been align honed using these fasteners it is
recommended to use the same torque spec and lubricant that was used when
it was honed.
For the head studs they will also thread into the block hand tight
only. Follow the manufacturers torque sequence and tighten the nuts in
three equal steps to 120 ft. lbs. if using 30 wt. oil as thread
lubricant. Because the head gasket can compress after the engine has
ran, it is recommended to re-check the torque after an initial heat
i'm planning to reuse my old piston rings which are less than 1000 miles. do i still need to repeat the break in process? cometic headgaskets don't required retorqing head studs but arp studs do. what should i do?
i sent my block out to laskey and they said that it's going to cost around $600-$700 plus new main caps because they well to make new tangs. the crank is going to move up .015-.020 so i will have to get a thicker headgasket and file the dowel pins on the oil pump main seal. they said if i provide a new block, they can sleeve it for $900.
i was wondering if there's shop out there that can weld some material on the damage then align hone it. what do you guys think is my best option now?
why even bother? Saving $50-100 now may cost 10-20X that in the future.
I agree. The only way to save that block would be to do what I did and have the mains bored out for a larger crank but thats ALOT of work and I know from experience. Moving the crank up will throw everything out of whack... oil pump, rear main seal, clutch/flywheel wont be aligned properly with the tranny etc.. your best bet is to start from scratch.
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