H22LAKERSFAN

My prelude started up, ran rough while i was backing out of my driveway and stalled at the bottom. A/T gear selector light flashed [D4] and its been crank and no start ever since.

NEW:Battery, starter, TDC/CKP sensor

I had bright blue spark while testing that couldnt make the car sputter or even light starting fluid under compression. Outside the engine block, the spark was strong enough to start a small fire on my valvecover from ether pooling up. I confirmed cam and crank timing. After further testing the car, i lost all spark. I then removed my MSD and went back to stock.

REPLACED: coil, plugs, wires and distributor assembly

I have 12v at two of the coil pins, but im not getting a trigger signal. Confirmed ICM continuity to ECU and proper voltage. Checked coil resistance -good. Immobilizer works. Confirmed continuity from TDC/CKP sensors to ECU. Confirmed good compression and injector pulse.

The car had a code P1660 (A/T FI data line failure TCM/ECM halt). I cleared it and since then I have no codes. When i disconnect a VTEC solenoid wire, i get the corresponding VTEC system malfunction code so i think my ECU is good.

I am desperate for any advice or even a direction to go from here. Please im so sick of driving a non-vtec accord i work at a mechanic shop and ive had handfuls of ASE certified people try to help me. Its like my car has been possessed and needs an exorcist

thirsk66

iTrader: (2)

Try resetting your ECU and see if that helps anything. The only other thing I can think of is maybe your TCU or transmission control unit is bad and needs to be replaced, or try jumping it and retrieving the codes from it if you still have the D4 light on the dash. Also are you hearing your main relay click and fuel pump priming when you turn the key over?

tamboo

Starting Problems

H22LAKERSFAN

Ive tried my spare TCU's, no luck. The D4 light only blinks when i go to the key on position with the TCU unplugged. No codes for anything, and my relay clicks like it should. When i go to the key on position with the banjo bolt loose on my fuel rail, about a cup comes out in just a few seconds. Thanks for the link but ive tried all that. Is the ECU reset procedure as simple as removing the 7.5A fuse with the battery disconnected?

Im starting to think my ECU is toast. About a year ago i was driving and my hood prop slid over and melted itself to my battery + terminal, causing my car to shut down. As soon as i pried it off it started back up (no blown fuses) and ran fine up until this crank no start happened. The check engine light comes on for 2seconds and goes off when i go to the key on position....if i unclip the connector on the VTEC solenoid i instantly get the accompanying VTEC system malfunction code....basically the only two things i havent replaced in my ignition system are my main relay and ECU.

thirsk66

iTrader: (2)

Well open up your ECU and check for burnt marks or anything out of the ordinary. And troubleshoot your ignition while your at it.

H22LAKERSFAN

Thanks for the advice. I bought a parts car (98 automatic prelude that was also a crank and no start due to a bad crank sensor) and swapped over the immobilizer box, coil, ECU and key.

My car started right up and runs fine thanks again to anybody who commented or read thru this thread.