Lej

My oil light suddenly started "flickering" (No not the usual steady pace flash), but flickering like there was a short.. I immediately pulled into a gas station, put a quart of oil in, and continued to drive home. (About half a mile) .. On the way home it began to make a "tack tack tack tack" noise above 2k RPM.. So somehow either I spun a bearing or something wasn't getting lubed.. I'm in the process of pulling my motor, but while doing so, I found this:





Maybe this caused my low oil pressure and didn't allow oil to make it up into the head? idk..

Also are there any good tutorials with pictures on how to take the H22 out.. I've got mostly everything unplugged, radiator out, axles out, header/exhaust etc... I'm sure there's a few more things... I've read that it's easiest just to bring the transmission with it, but just curious if there's a nice tutorial somewhere.. I've tried Googling, but most don't have the pictures..

spoolinlude

No that bolt is just holding your timing cover on. Your leak is higher than that, my guess is the balance shaft seals - which is a known issue and was even a recall I believe. Remove them when you rebuild your motor.

By the Helms Manual - its got a step by step on how to remove/replace ANYTHING in the car. You might be able to find a free pdf version if you look around enough still.

Lej

Ah yes I see what you mean. It's just that plastic piece... And HAH, I wish I could go by helms. I'm having to freestyle most off this.

Here, have a sample of my beautiful hose clamp:



Or perhaps my castle nuts where the pin never fails to break:


Or the fifty heads that have torn off just to leave wonderful studs that not even the strongest cobalt bit can penetrate...

spoolinlude

Jesus man - get lots of penetrating oil/WD-40 blue torch.....

You would do yourself a huge favor to order the helms manual.... Pulling the engine out is easy, putting it back in can be challenging if you've never done it.

Just be careful - check and re-check that you don't miss a wire connector or something. Make sure you've got the engine supported prior to taking the mounts off or loosening them at all.

Lej

Yeah it's pretty bad. I've never pulled the H22 before, but I've done countless Nissans.. RB20, RB25, SR20, KAs, and they are sooo easy in comparison.. Makes me never want FWD again lol! My friends RB20 is 8 bolts, (4 drive shaft bolts, 4 bolts for the mounts) and one wire connector at the firewall that we added in. We can have it out in 30 minutes.

J.R

my oil light was flickering at stop lights, but installing a new sender unit took care of that.

I don't know about your noise though, but I'm just saying that in my case it was just that I needed a new oil pressure sending unit. Has your oil pressure sending unit ever been replaced?

holmesnmanny

Have you even bothered looking at the pics you displayed ? You have serious leaks. With leaks like that it won't take long to get too low on oil. When turning, and low on oil, you will have oil pressure loss, which can easily translate into lack of lubrication, which can easily make you spin a bearing or any other catastrophic damage. The best thing to do on any engine is to always make sure you aren't leaking any oil. With no leaking oil, only a small amount of oil will get burned do to worn piston oil control rings. You can even use synthetic if you have no seals leaking at all.

If you have no oil leaking, and no cooling system issues you can have an engine go for what seems like forever. You can fix things like bad distributors, tune up issues, etc etc, but it's really expensive to have to repair an engine.