mattmw88

Car starts like normal, clutch pedal feels normal, but when I press the clutch down it won't allow me to put it into gear. I can start my car in gear (with every turn of the coil the car moves), but this isn't something I'm very fond of doing. At this point I can drive, but I can not shift, I can pull it out of gear, but then I can not put it back into gear.

I recently just replaced my slave cylinder and clutch master cylinder. I bled the clutch as best I could with my friend and then it shifted normal, everything was fine.

Two days later I have the same problem, car won't shift into gear.

Is it possible that I didn't bleed the clutch right? What else could be the problem? As far as bleeding it goes, I had my friend pump the clutch up about ten times, hold it down, and then I would open the bleeder screw. When the fluid stopped comming out I closed it back up. I repeated this process about 20 or so times. Is this not how you are supposed to bleed the clutch?

Any and all help is appreciated!
<--- who feels like after his car has broken down for the 4th time in 3 months, 1200 bucks later my expensive paper weight is still sitting.

SKDRCR

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by mattmw88 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Car starts like normal, clutch pedal feels normal, but when I press the clutch down it won't allow me to put it into gear. I can start my car in gear (with every turn of the coil the car moves), but this isn't something I'm very fond of doing. At this point I can drive, but I can not shift, I can pull it out of gear, but then I can not put it back into gear.

I recently just replaced my slave cylinder and clutch master cylinder. I bled the clutch as best I could with my friend and then it shifted normal, everything was fine.

Two days later I have the same problem, car won't shift into gear.

Is it possible that I didn't bleed the clutch right? What else could be the problem? As far as bleeding it goes, I had my friend pump the clutch up about ten times, hold it down, and then I would open the bleeder screw. When the fluid stopped comming out I closed it back up. I repeated this process about 20 or so times. Is this not how you are supposed to bleed the clutch?

Any and all help is appreciated!
&lt;--- who feels like after his car has broken down for the 4th time in 3 months, 1200 bucks later my expensive paper weight is still sitting. </TD></TR></TABLE>

I sounds like your throughout bearing might not be releasing all of the way.

Have someone push in your clutch and watch the slave cylinder and see how well it's
working. Make sure that the shift fork doesnt feel real mushy and have a lot of play in it. There is a pivot ball inside of the bellhousing that the shiftfork pivots on.
I've had that ball break on me which caused the some of the same symptoms
you're having.

Let me know after you check that

PrettyLude

could be signs of a bad pressure plate

h22aBB4

same exact thing is happening with me- I can barely start in 1st or reverse since it shudders like mad, so i dont drive it. Im replacing the clutch... and the flywheel while im at it. they're supposed to arrive on monday. I'll let you know how it goes.

mattmw88

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by SKDRCR &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
Have someone push in your clutch and watch the slave cylinder and see how well it's
working. Make sure that the shift fork doesnt feel real mushy and have a lot of play in it. </TD></TR></TABLE>

I got a pretty good look at the slave moving the fork that goes into the transmission when my friend and I bled the clutch; it seemed to have good movement back and forth, although I know I remember hearing a slight squeeking noise when the clutch is depressed and released.
I'll double check, but I think I already checked for play and it felt strong and consistant.

I'm not sure if this is what you meant by shift fork, or if that is what is sticking out of the tranny, but when the car is not running I can shift and the transmission feels great, like it always has. Basically everything feels like normal except that I can't get the tranny into gear.

Is it possible that the clutch pedal needs to be adjusted? It has always felt a little bit weird and awhile back I tried adjusting itnot to mention this is my 3rd clutch since 2001(one was when I put in the motor.) Last time I had a clutchnet stage II clutch (8 puck) and it was the pressure plate that went out after about 12,000 miles. I am rough, but not that bad. Now I have an exeddy street/strip clutch and have about 15,0000 or less on this.

Is there any way to tell if its the throwought bearing?

I don't mean to write a novel, but maybe the extra info will shed some light.

mattmw88

Edit: I have no idea what I did, but I got it to post twice,

mgags7

A simple stage 1 clutch like a clutchmasters or an exedy organic would have gotten the job done...but that is beside the point

If the clutch fork is moving more than 1" or so when you push the pedal down, then the hydraulics/pedal aren't the problem. From there you're gonna have to yank the trans again.

LudaChris

You have pressure now so this won't really apply but for future reference my fella Honda guys who don't know. The procedure for pumping is for brakes. It will still work but will take you about three days. Okay, start by making sure you have fluid, then step on the clutch, open the bleeder screw, close the bleeder screw, let the clutch pedal up, and repeat the process until solid fluid comes out. You should be done in less than 10 tries. No need to pump.

Give it another try, won't hurt, just in case you still have air in there. Good luck.

mgags7

You still pump up the clutch, it is the same principle, pumping it aids in pushing the air down the line....

mattmw88

I started my car today to let it run a little bit and get the snow off it. Sure as **** it works like normal right now. So yea, its deffinetly an itermittent problem... and for the bleeding procedure, it sounds like I did it correctly, eh?

So I'll have to pull the tranny to check the throwout bearing, and if that isn't the problem, maybe the pressure plate again? WTF, this car is tearin my sphincter apart!

DOHCVTEC190

Sounds a lot like my situation when my clutch disk went out. Sometimes it was really difficult to put into gear, sometimes it drove like normal. Then on some days I couldn't get it into first if the car was running. Had to turn it off just like you, put it in first, then start it but it felt like it was grabbing and made all sorts of noises.

Anyways, my problem was a failed clutch disk. One of the springs and parts of the metal frame of the disk broke out and were getting hung up. It was an Exedy Organic Racing Clutch by the way...if you're planning on getting a new clutch. Look into Competition Clutch if you need a new one.

dreed2300

That happened to me once after I installed an ACT 6 puck with Fidanza fly wheel. The step hieght wasnt right on the fly wheel and caused it to over heat and the clutch pucks melted to the fly wheel. It wouldn't disenguage either. I had to pry the fly wheel and clutch apart. Never seen or heard of that until it happened to me.

1GPlusSH

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by bb4ever &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">A simple stage 1 clutch like a clutchmasters or an exedy organic would have gotten the job done...but that is beside the point

If the clutch fork is moving more than 1" or so when you push the pedal down, then the hydraulics/pedal aren't the problem. From there you're gonna have to yank the trans again.</TD></TR></TABLE>

Find somebody that knows how to rev match, and get them to show you how. you can get around town that way. I broke my clutch two years ago, and I had to run around with no clutch for a few days until my clutch came in. It sucks starting the car in gear, but sometimes you have no choice. If you're grinding while you're rev matching, don't do it....it's not worth killing your tranny.

mgags7

There is a big difference between rev matching and using a clutch to shift. Though rev matching allows you to engage gears without grinding, pulling the car out of gear with the clutch still engaged is horrible for the trans

Rev matching is for transmissions that do not use synchronizers.....

joeboxer212

Sounds like the clutch is out. Same exact symptoms with my car. Replaced cylinders too. It's most likely the clutch.

1GPlusSH

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by bb4ever &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">There is a big difference between rev matching and using a clutch to shift. Though rev matching allows you to engage gears without grinding, pulling the car out of gear with the clutch still engaged is horrible for the trans

Rev matching is for transmissions that do not use synchronizers.....</TD></TR></TABLE>

Like I said, I ran around for 2 days without engaging/disengaging my clutch. My tranny has synchros, and I wasn't grinding. How is that bad for your transmission?