Calling all 4th Gen lude professionals
#1
Calling all 4th Gen lude professionals
Need Honda professional advice and know how. There are threads on this already that are not complete and scattered.
Problem: HARD VIBRATION UNDER LOAD
make: 1992 Honda prelude H22A swap 230xxx mi on car/trans
With 70xxx on motor
• ground control lowering suspension
- noticed a couple months back a heavy vibration when driving at 60 mph, just cruising on highway then BAM! Gnarly, shook the whole front. No jerking in the steering wheel, just up and down vibration from what ever is shaking.
Put the clutch in, vibration gone, clutch back in, it was there. Then I down shifted to fourth. Punched the gas and vibrated like a ****. Went to third, still vibrated until I got to 80 and threw it back in fifth, gone until I hit a hill, back under load vibration extremum.
- like I'm sayin I was cruising for good gas mileage. But there is something about the horsepower and torque being stressed at that low rpm that set it off.
What's weird is it not extreme all the time, it has its days.
BUT I WILL SAY THIS-it would vibrate lightly when punching it off the line at the light. then over time(month) progressively got worse. Some gears worse than others- BUT AGAIN, it would have its days where it wouldn't,
CHANGED:
• all new tires - Yokohama S-drive(these are what was on the car when I bought it)
• changed out left half shaft: had play when suspended at the cv where it meets the intermediate shaft:
- drove the car and vibration reduced dramatically. Almost ****, except I could feel my two somewhat out of shape rims(these are not the problem). I was stoked.
Then two-three weeks goes by, coming up gnarly hill, starts doing it again.
•Now I know the drive tire axle I have not changed but I have the replacement.
•AND- don't know if this matters but my sway bar bracket in the back driver side broke off(kept comin loose, then popped threads, then sheared) so I welded it back in place perfect.
then I took a trip from the foothills to city and on the way back is when it started.!!
- Been told its:
the differential
The other axle
Intermediate shaft
Motor mount
Missfire
Tires/rims
Wheel bearings
Bad suspension/bushings
Alignment
My hope is to get a cure for my problem, a lot of people are having the same issue, after a bunch of money dumped trying to find it.
I know someone else has had to of run into this.
Problem: HARD VIBRATION UNDER LOAD
make: 1992 Honda prelude H22A swap 230xxx mi on car/trans
With 70xxx on motor
• ground control lowering suspension
- noticed a couple months back a heavy vibration when driving at 60 mph, just cruising on highway then BAM! Gnarly, shook the whole front. No jerking in the steering wheel, just up and down vibration from what ever is shaking.
Put the clutch in, vibration gone, clutch back in, it was there. Then I down shifted to fourth. Punched the gas and vibrated like a ****. Went to third, still vibrated until I got to 80 and threw it back in fifth, gone until I hit a hill, back under load vibration extremum.
- like I'm sayin I was cruising for good gas mileage. But there is something about the horsepower and torque being stressed at that low rpm that set it off.
What's weird is it not extreme all the time, it has its days.
BUT I WILL SAY THIS-it would vibrate lightly when punching it off the line at the light. then over time(month) progressively got worse. Some gears worse than others- BUT AGAIN, it would have its days where it wouldn't,
CHANGED:
• all new tires - Yokohama S-drive(these are what was on the car when I bought it)
• changed out left half shaft: had play when suspended at the cv where it meets the intermediate shaft:
- drove the car and vibration reduced dramatically. Almost ****, except I could feel my two somewhat out of shape rims(these are not the problem). I was stoked.
Then two-three weeks goes by, coming up gnarly hill, starts doing it again.
•Now I know the drive tire axle I have not changed but I have the replacement.
•AND- don't know if this matters but my sway bar bracket in the back driver side broke off(kept comin loose, then popped threads, then sheared) so I welded it back in place perfect.
then I took a trip from the foothills to city and on the way back is when it started.!!
- Been told its:
the differential
The other axle
Intermediate shaft
Motor mount
Missfire
Tires/rims
Wheel bearings
Bad suspension/bushings
Alignment
My hope is to get a cure for my problem, a lot of people are having the same issue, after a bunch of money dumped trying to find it.
I know someone else has had to of run into this.
#2
Re: Calling all 4th Gen lude professionals
Need Honda professional advice and know how. There are threads on this already that are not complete and scattered.
Problem: HARD VIBRATION UNDER LOAD
make: 1992 Honda prelude H22A swap 230xxx mi on car/trans
With 70xxx on motor
• ground control lowering suspension
- noticed a couple months back a heavy vibration when driving at 60 mph, just cruising on highway then BAM! Gnarly, shook the whole front. No jerking in the steering wheel, just up and down vibration from what ever is shaking.
Put the clutch in, vibration gone, clutch back in, it was there. Then I down shifted to fourth. Punched the gas and vibrated like a ****. Went to third, still vibrated until I got to 80 and threw it back in fifth, gone until I hit a hill, back under load vibration extremum.
- like I'm sayin I was cruising for good gas mileage. But there is something about the horsepower and torque being stressed at that low rpm that set it off.
What's weird is it not extreme all the time, it has its days.
BUT I WILL SAY THIS-it would vibrate lightly when punching it off the line at the light. then over time(month) progressively got worse. Some gears worse than others- BUT AGAIN, it would have its days where it wouldn't,
CHANGED:
• all new tires - Yokohama S-drive(these are what was on the car when I bought it)
• changed out left half shaft: had play when suspended at the cv where it meets the intermediate shaft:
- drove the car and vibration reduced dramatically. Almost ****, except I could feel my two somewhat out of shape rims(these are not the problem). I was stoked.
Then two-three weeks goes by, coming up gnarly hill, starts doing it again.
•Now I know the drive tire axle I have not changed but I have the replacement.
•AND- don't know if this matters but my sway bar bracket in the back driver side broke off(kept comin loose, then popped threads, then sheared) so I welded it back in place perfect.
then I took a trip from the foothills to city and on the way back is when it started.!!
- Been told its:
the differential
The other axle
Intermediate shaft
Motor mount
Missfire
Tires/rims
Wheel bearings
Bad suspension/bushings
Alignment
My hope is to get a cure for my problem, a lot of people are having the same issue, after a bunch of money dumped trying to find it.
I know someone else has had to of run into this.
Problem: HARD VIBRATION UNDER LOAD
make: 1992 Honda prelude H22A swap 230xxx mi on car/trans
With 70xxx on motor
• ground control lowering suspension
- noticed a couple months back a heavy vibration when driving at 60 mph, just cruising on highway then BAM! Gnarly, shook the whole front. No jerking in the steering wheel, just up and down vibration from what ever is shaking.
Put the clutch in, vibration gone, clutch back in, it was there. Then I down shifted to fourth. Punched the gas and vibrated like a ****. Went to third, still vibrated until I got to 80 and threw it back in fifth, gone until I hit a hill, back under load vibration extremum.
- like I'm sayin I was cruising for good gas mileage. But there is something about the horsepower and torque being stressed at that low rpm that set it off.
What's weird is it not extreme all the time, it has its days.
BUT I WILL SAY THIS-it would vibrate lightly when punching it off the line at the light. then over time(month) progressively got worse. Some gears worse than others- BUT AGAIN, it would have its days where it wouldn't,
CHANGED:
• all new tires - Yokohama S-drive(these are what was on the car when I bought it)
• changed out left half shaft: had play when suspended at the cv where it meets the intermediate shaft:
- drove the car and vibration reduced dramatically. Almost ****, except I could feel my two somewhat out of shape rims(these are not the problem). I was stoked.
Then two-three weeks goes by, coming up gnarly hill, starts doing it again.
•Now I know the drive tire axle I have not changed but I have the replacement.
•AND- don't know if this matters but my sway bar bracket in the back driver side broke off(kept comin loose, then popped threads, then sheared) so I welded it back in place perfect.
then I took a trip from the foothills to city and on the way back is when it started.!!
- Been told its:
the differential
The other axle
Intermediate shaft
Motor mount
Missfire
Tires/rims
Wheel bearings
Bad suspension/bushings
Alignment
My hope is to get a cure for my problem, a lot of people are having the same issue, after a bunch of money dumped trying to find it.
I know someone else has had to of run into this.
i actually had the same problem with mine about a month ago. my carrier bearing on intermediate shaft went bad and the knuckles, bearings or whatever there called in my driver side axle broke. causing even more grinding and vibrations. when coasting there wasnt any vibration or noise but under pressure it wanted to hop off the road. i finally figured that out after changing pasanger axle, both upper ball joints, rear and driver side motor mount and a couple bushings here and there as well.
also do you have your front perches maxed out? i maxed mine out and started to get the same problem again, raised it back up a little bit and it went away. if you have the time, know how and resources then you might as well take a look at everything. i ended up spending around 500-600 when it was really about a 100 dollar fix.
#3
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Join Date: Oct 2008
Location: Jacksonville Beach, Florida, United States
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Re: Calling all 4th Gen lude professionals
Aftermarket axles are famous for vibrations under acceleration even when new but it's never really bad. Check the axles, sounds very much like an axle problem.
If you're dumping money trying to find the problem you probably wasted way more that what it would have cost to just let someone at a shop look it over good and find out what is actually wrong with it. No way someone over the net is going to be able to tell you, this is something you'd have to drive on the road then have someone drive the car on a lift while looking at everything to be able to tell what the problem is.
If you're dumping money trying to find the problem you probably wasted way more that what it would have cost to just let someone at a shop look it over good and find out what is actually wrong with it. No way someone over the net is going to be able to tell you, this is something you'd have to drive on the road then have someone drive the car on a lift while looking at everything to be able to tell what the problem is.
#4
Honda-Tech Member
Re: Calling all 4th Gen lude professionals
Check everything That you mentioned in your first post. It could be one or more of these. A prybar is your biggest friend for checking bushings!
#6
Honda-Tech Member
Re: Calling all 4th Gen lude professionals
sounds like the differential spider gears are done.
replace the diff! i have replaced diffs about 9 times in h/f series transmissions.. it happens alot when they get beat on.
Not saying this is your problem, i do however recommend inspecting your trans.
replace the diff! i have replaced diffs about 9 times in h/f series transmissions.. it happens alot when they get beat on.
Not saying this is your problem, i do however recommend inspecting your trans.
#7
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Re: Calling all 4th Gen lude professionals
^Pretty unlikely, only seen 1 in the past 4 years at a large volume shop that has 32 lifts that stay occupied all day.
Easy way to check the diff is to grab the axle at the inboard joint and move it up and down. If the other axle moves with it then there is a problem with the diff.
Easy way to check the diff is to grab the axle at the inboard joint and move it up and down. If the other axle moves with it then there is a problem with the diff.
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