Jerzy_bb6

So ive been in the game for awhile but building tegs mostly and have just bought my first lude and have done some pretty extensive serching on building .Id like to get around mid 200"s or so or basically have a nice amout of power to just all day spank these brz and fr-s that these bums swear are the fastest( granted i know their numbers on those cars already which arent special) just looking for a fun ride and have some power over the weight of the car.. Current setup as purchased is (Copy and pasted) note: i dont want to boost the h series!!

1998 Honda Prelude
159000 Miles
5 speed original transmission
H22A4 original engine

Maintenance:
Gates timing belt
Gates balance shaft belt
Kaizenspeed Manual tensioner
Cam seals
Crank seal
Vtec seal
Oil cooler o ring
Valve cover gasket
Spark plug grommets
New distributer td77u
New alternator
Battery fairly new
New spark plugs
New power steering line
New water pump
New thermostat
New 02 sensors front/rear
Exedy clutch
Fidanza 8lb flywheel
New fuel filter honda oem
Alignment.
Brand new (BrakeMotive) Front & Rear drilled/slotted rotors with new ceramic pads
New fuel pressure regulator

Probably forgetting some things

Mods:

1 piece fully adjustable EMUSA coilovers
SRS stainless steel catback exhaust 3.5" tip
Cat delete (custom)
Honda type R wheel with hub
Type R Honda shift **** with boot
Konig Roller wheels 16x7.5 on 205/45r16[/QUOTE]

Varia

Get a CAI, Tri-Y headers and a tune. That's the best you can do before having to do internal work.

The second best thing you can do is put your car on a diet.

Or I guess you could get a Type-S swap. 20 more HP and an LSD transmission if you pick that up, too.

Jerzy_bb6

Any suggestions on headers? Not looking to get any ebay jump offs, only quality parts go in my girl. Have searched hytec tri-y but seem to see only replicas so my assumption is that theres only reps, could be wrong but all else i saw were BlOX tri"s.. Unsure of what the diameter of my piping is so ill have to check but im also looking to put a vibrant res inplace of cat then possibly a vibrant muffler( not suc a fan of the bottle type mufflers unless i have to)

Varia

PLM (Private Label Manufacturing) and DNA Motorsports offer them for the Prelude. They aren't top notch, but they are available. The high quality stuff like Hytech and Vibrant are most likely going to be found secondhand, if at all. Search for H22 Tri-Y Header on google and you'll find some stuff. They should net you ~10whp over a stock or DC header.

Don't forget bushings and ball joints. If they are worn, that means your power goes into the chassis and not to the ground.

I recently swapped an H23 VTEC in mine and deleted AC and power steering. I get up to highway speeds way too easy now.

Jerzy_bb6

Ok so bolt-on wise suggestions such as:
Tb/intake mani(port stock or just buy another?) tb spacer? (Worth it or nA?)
How about tec-controllers? vafc im assuming is a tec controller?
Just some thoughts on things. Ive searched plenty and am still searching to make the right build for around mid 200"s whp, not looking to march or make same builds as other take note just the most recommended quality for gain the most realiable power out of.
Someone can also through me some v-train thoughts too if youd like. Ive been searching around crowers/jun/skunk2 etc cams and gears etc

Jerzy_bb6

Oh man @Varia i couldnt do the florida heat w/o a/c lol

backinblue92

iTrader: (1)

Oh, you smog-less lucky *** Florida bastards. You can do whatever you want to your cars.

backinblue92

iTrader: (1)

Oh and if money isn't much an issue, youtube the JUN Prelude. iirc it made like 270 with not much more than bolt-ons and cams.
I believe it was:
Euro R manifold
Hytech header
a bunch of JUN parts
and a great tune

Jerzy_bb6

Any thoughts on a ecu? Go obd1 or chip stock w handata? Im not sure what works well for the lude

Jerzy_bb6

Oh yea bb92 im from jersey and used to thecraziness there but here is legit w the emissions!

backinblue92

iTrader: (1)

Yeah I'm on my 3rd smog fail. Still trying to kill off the hydrocarbons lol. Which is odd cuz the engine has never run better after all the work I've done and barely failing. Anyhow

You could do an obd1 conversion but it's easier to just get an obd2->obd1 conversion harness from Rywire then get an obd1 chipped p28 or p72 using hondata or chrome, whatever the best local tuner uses. I'd contact the tuner u may have in mind for advice there.

Do your research on parts. Check out build threads for ideas. It's all up to your budget and your goals.

thirsk66

iTrader: (2)

You say you dont want eBay junk on your car only quality parts but the EMUSA coilovers are from eBay and so is the SRS cat back exhaust. Just use the piping from the SRS kit, if its not complete crap, then like you said weld in a good resonator and you can find a good muffler from vibrant they make some decent looking ones. Good luck with your build.

Jerzy_bb6

I bought the car with all thats listed above, as for coilovers, ill be looking into GC w konis i hears a good setup, exhaust wise i may try Vibrant piping/res/ and muffler and check into some more headers.

Jerzy_bb6

Oh yea id deff do a step down harness etc, but what ive also been looking into is the Immobilizer deal with the lude and ecu. Havent read so far of anyone having any luck with the whole immobilizer deal. Id like to just not have it or bypass it cause i also dont have the red key for it when i bought the car.

backinblue92

iTrader: (1)

Well if you can find one, buy a '96 prelude p13. It's obd2 but without the immobilizer, as that was only 5th gens and '96 was the only obd2 4th gen.

Then the conversion harness and an obd1 p13

ojasia

I'm sure it can be done (hit your 200whp goal) with a VAFC but if you live somewhere that does not require staying obd-2 I would deff. get a standalone. Tuning will be more beneficial. I just finished a obd1 built H22 swap and had no issues with my immobilizer. P28 hondata S300 with a obd2a-0bd1 harness and she fired right up. Lol the whole time I was finishing my engine in my guest bedroom my bud talked so much sh*t (owns a FRS) saying how mad I would be if he still beat me Lol. If you want some bragging rights you got to do your research and learn. NA is not cheap, but your goals are realistic for a budget and the avenues of approach for an H22 hitting 200whp are endless. Is your engine in a healthy state? mine was at 142k before swap and only had 1/2" of timing belt left when I finally decided to pull it because I couldnt afford to mess the cyl. head up. I would say for your goal try a P28 Hondata, a good Header with 2.5" collector , 3" test pipe, 3" back with resonator and good flowing exhaust. atleast 2 3/4 Intake piping flow stack will help, so I have heard, I dont have one : / big K&N filter. High Imp. Inj.'s maybe RDX's at the least. minimum 68mm Throttle bodie, and intake manifold take your pick, its really up to where you want the power? when I was running my stock H22 with bolt ons and stock tune. the FRS had the low end on me and then it evened out and then top end pulled off. Im kind of curious tho about just a fresh H22 euro-r/red top what ever from a import dealer and a P28 hondata tune and a full exh. system would probably do the trick, if not then throw in tuner2's or pro 1 cams and you got a FRS beat even with a TRD limited edition exhaust and K&N drop in filter. Stock FRS's have no ***** at all. I see more females driving them then men. Cant even have fun in them you turn the TC off and try to drift and you spin/drift for a second and it auto kicks back on... wtf! Good luck, but you wont need it to beat an FRS Lol

you cant chip your stock ECU. I recommend Phearable.net P28 Hondata S300, but not so much recommend it to be your first upgrade, why? because why tune more then once you know your not at your full potential? it will sit in your closet for awhile. . . I kno Lol 1:Research, 2"Figure out what you want to do. 3:right it down. Dont forget your Bullsh*t filter. (a filter where you can decipher the BS from truth) Its not hard, All I did was research, thought about what gas I had available, asked a few questions here n there. Honda is the best for learning. get yourself a 97-01 Honda prelude service manual it practically tells you everything to build a performance engine. I literally just finished assembling my first H22 longblock made 230whp n 170wtq all you really need is patience.

Jerzy_bb6

Jerzy_bb6

Thanx for the insight Ojasia!! The immobilizer was deff a problem i was looking at.. As for engine health the car has
156k
New seals (done about 4 weeks ago)
Main seal/clutch/pressure plate/ throwout bearing/8lb fidanza flywheel all done (june 20 2015 (professionally w receipts for everything)
New distributer/alternator/spark plugs/wires/coil etc
The car is a virgin besides that. All stock bay/air filter(besides exhaust)
For as heavy as the ludes are, she rips when i hit her and pops a crisp hard tec! I bought the car the way it is and tbh its a steal for $3500 as i bought her

Jerzy_bb6

Oh and i live in Florida now so theres no emissions!!!

98vtec

Where in FL are you?

98vtec

Remember the information I gave you over pm about dyno numbers and goals. Mid 200's could be anywhere from a basic build to a full race engine depending on the dyno you use so it's important to know where you stand before you start a build.

I ran mid 13's with a basic stroker setup with stock camshafts that made 215whp.

I ran 11.85 with a wilder setup that made 272 @ 8000rpm



And then made 280whp @ 9000rpm after adding a CNC ported head and 62mm kinsler itb. Never got to testing it as the engine came apart but it was a beast compared to the prior considering it made an additional ~80whp at 9000-9500rpm.


And please be careful listening to what people say online. Most people have never built an engine to make the kind of power you are wanting to make and can easily steer you in the wrong direction, especially the ones recommending Chinese garbage to help power an engine they were never designed to help.

Jerzy_bb6

Clearwater area 98 vtec..

Jerzy_bb6

I know this is off the thread but figured id take a wack... Fog light install" not sure if relay or power source has to be checked.. Just wired and tucked my fogs that cam in box when i bought the car.. when i press the button for fogs inside the engine gets higher which you can hear, BUT no fogs come on.. Now to my knowledge an obvious power source is being drawn which causes the engine to whine up but nothing comes to the fogs anymore.. Checked grounds and all are snug(even grinded paint off where i hooked up grounds) granted it was working through the empty fuse slots that were told to plug into and worked fine but now nothing... Any thoughts?

Jerzy_bb6

Which is why after searching forums 98vtec i sought you out for i wont get the satisfaction of knowledge through 1 source of information but multiple sources to determine my own train of thought as well as taking more info on someone who"s had hands on work(not just knowledge from a 3rd party source)

ojasia

Ooh me Like Nice, after I get my AMR coilovers and get all bushings replaced I'm gonna top it off with a midnight gloss black paint job. My bronze Sparco's look funny now on the silver but I knew I was gonna end up finishing it off with a black paint job. I love the look of bronze rims on black. Though those rims you got set it off to! Good find! I paid 7400 for my base, but it was garage kept one owner type of deal with 118K on it. The bolts on the under carriage were still silver. unmolested prelude HONDA deck still in it Lol.

With all the maint. your saying you just got done to her your prolly looking to keep that engine. I would start something on the side like I did so you can have fun/ learn on the way and then have minimal down time.

You need to figure out if you want to start something on the side? Just do bolt-ons for now? The thing is if you want to start ahead but also dont want to do major internals, I suggest the red top swap, you get a couple things that really help down the road. 1: Higher Compression/ bam single most bestest thing you can do NA 2: Comes with the Euro-r Intake manifold, regarded as one of the best Intake manifolds for the H, and its OEM!, just with this down the road throwing in some cams will open her up. Like I was saying earlier. I think this swap and some good bolt ons and a standalone tune will give you what you want. Dont get super hung up on numbers, the JDM H22 version with I think 11:0 cr is a good engine I have seen youtube videos of this very scenario put down 200 atleast. GL man I was in the same boat over a year ago Lol. The prelude lives on! Lol you got a good lookin shell take care of her now.