Blue94Accord

Looks like I blew a ring on cylinder 2 on my H22a.

Wondering if anyone has any advise. I really didn't want to do this.

I feel that if I am going to go through all this work to change the rings I might as well do performance. Pistons, rods, head gasket. Im boosted so low compression is nice but I would be stock sleeves.

Anyone know why the thin sleeves are bad? Like how do they break. I dont see the walls busting so I guess they warp and leak??

If i do low compression how much boost do you think the sleeves could handle?

street_ride14

thin sleeves ? .. are you bored out or running the factory 87mm ??

stock FRM sleeves on your h22a are much stronger than iron sleeves, i wouldn't worry about them taking a **** on you, its the piston you gotta worry about. But the aftermarket piston choices for iron sleeves are far better than the limited choices of piston you can run on FRM.
Boost depends on how good the tune is, and it don't really matter if its low compression or stock compression, your tuner can work around those parameters.

Are you even boosted at this moment ?

minilogoguy18

^Yeah he's boosted.

Mahle makes a low comp piston that is FRM safe(gold series), I personally would try that but that's just me, I want to see how far FRM can be pushed because street_ride is right, it is stronger than iron.

Blue94Accord

yea im boosted. I read the the h22 sleeves were thin thats why they are bad. I could be wrong thats what I heard. Or maybe they ment the frm is thin.

I see this a good opportunity to run 15 psi. If I just do pistons and rod bearing bolts could that happen?

I was thinking about sending in the block to golden eagle and getting sleeves but if the sleeves are good and its just the pistons then i might just do pistons then..

opinions

minilogoguy18

Yeah whoever told you that about the sleeves doesn't know what they're talking about, you should do some studying on FRM, the H22 isn't the only motor that uses it...

Blue94Accord

lol ya i dont know that much about the sleeves. I didn't want to build anything. I was happy at 8psi.

but if i am going to go take everything off just to replace stock then I might as well do after market.

how does this sound.. frm pistons, good head studs, good rod bolts, and head gasket. block guard? I dont know if thats even worth it never seen anyone use it.

would i be able to safely run 15 psi with those mods? Im looking for reliability

Blue94Accord

ya i had the opinion that FRM was bad actually lol.. I didnt know so i believed

street_ride14

and why is that ? ... what is your power goal ?

Blue94Accord

400 hp

is it possible? I have been living a lie thinking that the sleeves were bad for a year now so its still hard for me to believe that just doing pistons can handle it

street_ride14

on what turbo ?

Blue94Accord

I have a turbonetics t3 t4 turbo. Treadstone manifold.

http://www.treadstoneperformance.com...+H23+Turbo+Kit.

street_ride14

you MiGHT be able to pull it off, but only if everything else is in check with your turbo setup. don't think so much about PSI numbers, but rather concentrate on your power goal.
what engine management are you running ?

Blue94Accord

right now just chrome chip p28

550cc RC injectors, Walbro fuel pump, greddy rs, evolution waste gate, AEM wideband, 2.5 exhaust

let me know what you think i need

street_ride14

if you want reliability than i suggest to iron sleeve your block, get some aftermarket pistons/rods and go with a 3" turbo-back exhaust .. then hit up the tuner and tell him 400whp goal

Blue94Accord

You said the sleeves can handle the boost. I was looking at those FRM safe pistons. Is 400hp pushing it? Cause I dont really have the time for sending the block into a shop.

street_ride14

actually yeah you can run the MAHLE Gold-series pistons and get away with 400whp on them, people have pushed them upwards to 550-600whp.
that would actually be the cheaper route, i have them paired with Eagle rods that are going into my block shortly .. yeah do that.

Blue94Accord

would I need to bore out anything or have anything machined? Or would i just need to hone out the walls and put the new ones in?

minilogoguy18

FRM only needs honing if there are scratches deep enough to catch your fingernail or if they run the length of the bore, otherwise you can leave it alone, they're kinda low maintenance in a way. You can't really bore them out, they're very thin, maybe street_ride knows the limit off the top of his head cause I can't remember but it isn't much, you won't gain displacement from it.

If it does need honing your going to have to find someone that specializes in FRM, the method is totally different. You should pick up a helms manual, in there it has the honing procedure.

Blue94Accord

So what else do i need.
parts list so far:
-Pistons/rings
-rod bearings+bolts
-crank bearings/bolts
-oil pump
-map sensor
-tune
-headstuds
-headgasket

what else?

Blue94Accord

So i took the pistons out today. Before today, I thought I blew a piston ring. Turned out that I blew a pencil size hole right threw the side of the piston. The other 3 are cracked on the rings.

After analyzing, Im thinking it had to have been caused due to oil starvation. Like the oil jet squirtter clogged or something. Cause for a hole to blow like that it might have gotten hot or dry.
Don't blame me cause all I use is mobile one and Ive done 3 oil changes this past year. The motor had really bad slug when I first got it.