Notices
Honda Prelude All Model Preludes

Best way to troubleshoot real clunk?

Thread Tools
 
Search this Thread
 
Old 06-06-2011, 04:06 AM
  #1  
Honda-Tech Member
Thread Starter
 
dragoscscc's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2011
Posts: 9
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Default Best way to troubleshoot real clunk?

Posted this in the tech/misc section but no help. Thought I'd try this section.

I have this clunk/thump from the rear of the car whenever I go over uneven surfaces. What's the best way to go about finding it?

2000 Prelude, 153K miles, all stock driven in NE Ohio (some rust)


All 4 struts were changed at 127K (maybe 2 years ago, KYB GR2 I think) along with the rubber spring supports on top (whatever they're called) and the four strut rubber mounting pieces on top.

There is a TSB for the rear shock mount collar where it's either replaced with a shorter one or cut down by 2-3mm. That way you should be able to tighten the top strut mounting pieces tighter against the frame to reduce the knock. That has been complied with.

I went in the car and took EVERYTHING out of the trunk. Spare tire, trunk lining, jack, nothing left. No fix.

Made sure the top springs/struts were tightened. No fix.

Checked all the bushings on the rear suspension. Used a pry bar to try to move suspension components and visual check. Some wear (cracks in the rubber bushings) but nothing excessive...

Tried jumping up and down in the trunk (195lbs) could not duplicate the sound.

Tried driving on uneven concrete with the e-brake on, made no difference.

Moved the exhaust/heat shields/gas tank by hand, all quiet.

Checked the anti roll bar bushing and anti roll bar ends with and without load on the suspension. No play, no noise. Some wear on the bar ends boots, but still intact with no play/noise.

Checked the lower, rear and upper ball joints. No play/noise.

Checked the trailing arm bushing, again not new, but no metal to metal contact.

Adjusted trunk stoppers in and out. No real difference.

Drove with the trunk open. Still there.



I still have to find somebody and drive while they are in the back trying to pinpoint the source.

The sound can be easily duplicated when driving on uneven concrete, 20MPH or so. I can't tell if its coming from the right or left suspension, if it's the suspension to begin with or coming from somewhere else all together.

The sounds can be best describes as oil canning, but muffled. It seems like it happens when the suspension drops from a higher surface onto a lower one or when catching the lip of uneven pavement. I'm not sure if it's because the rear end drops suddenly, is jolted upwards or the rear wheels are jolted rearward.



How do I go about narrowing this down? I don't want to just throw money at this.


The only discrepancies I've found is some play in the upper control arm bushings where it connects to the frame and trailing arm bushings (side to side, nothing front/back/up/down). No metal to metal contact though... When I pound on the lower part of the fuel tank or on the lower part of the bumper cover lip it does make a "thump" noise but It doesn't sound the same


What else can I check? How can I eliminate other components? Any help would be greatly appreciated.

D
Old 06-06-2011, 04:16 AM
  #2  
Honda-Tech Member
 
1GPlusSH's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2005
Location: Biloxi, MS, USA
Posts: 1,142
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Default Re: Best way to troubleshoot real clunk?

wow, you're definitely thorough.

you can't find someone to drive your car while you're in the trunk?
Old 06-06-2011, 06:05 AM
  #3  
Honda-Tech Member
Thread Starter
 
dragoscscc's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2011
Posts: 9
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Default Re: Best way to troubleshoot real clunk?

It's a stick, my girl dosen't know how. I have a few friends on the other side of town, but haven't got around yet.

Im starting to think it may not have anything to do with the suspension at all. Might be some short of seat bracket to frame contact either behind or under the rear seats. Might have to get those out and go for a drive...

It's pissing me off, very agravating to say the least. Driving down the road, clunk clunk clunk...
Old 06-06-2011, 07:08 AM
  #4  
Honda owns me
 
typemismatch's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2004
Location: Fargo, ND, USA
Posts: 995
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Default Re: Best way to troubleshoot real clunk?

Quit kidnapping midget hookers ...

Sorry ... couldn't resist ...

You've been thorough as hell, I wish I had some real input ...
Old 06-06-2011, 07:10 AM
  #5  
Honda owns me
 
typemismatch's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2004
Location: Fargo, ND, USA
Posts: 995
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Default Re: Best way to troubleshoot real clunk?

Oh, I just thought of something, even if your struts are newish, check to see if you can move them side to side, you might be hearing the piston hit the housing inside.
Old 06-10-2011, 12:06 PM
  #6  
Honda-Tech Member
Thread Starter
 
dragoscscc's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2011
Posts: 9
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Default Re: Best way to troubleshoot real clunk?

typemismatch, checked the shock absorber and the cover (inside of the spring) to make sure they were not hitting. All is good there. Finally got some more people inside of the trunk to listen to the sound. It seems to be coming from the passenger side (maybe more potholes on the outside of the road than near the median). One of them said it seemed to be coming from the lower suspension cross member right aft of the fuel tank, on the pass side...

How do you check the swaybar endlinks? With the car on jacks (both wheels off) i tried to move the link every which way. No play in the lower or upper joint. I can rotate them on the ball joints themselves but they are fairly stiff. Need both arms to turn them. I'm halfway tempted to disconnect them and take it for a spin, just to see if anything changes, but I have a feeling that I wont be able to get them off in one piece.

What about the upper control arm bushings? When using a 2-3 FT prybar I can get some side to side (FWD/AFT) play from the bushings. But up down/side to side they seem to have no give.

Why cant I duplicate this by jumping up and down in the trunk? How is that any different than driving down the road?

D
Old 06-24-2011, 07:35 AM
  #7  
Honda-Tech Member
Thread Starter
 
dragoscscc's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2011
Posts: 9
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Default Re: Best way to troubleshoot real clunk?

FIXED!!!

Well after taking the rear struts apart for the 10th time (not really but it seemed like) found the two rubber bushing on top of the strut mount were installed upside down.

http://www.hondaautomotiveparts.com/...SHOCK+ABSORBER

#13 top and bottom are the same part, but the tapered portions were installed towards each other instead of away from each other. The manual is kinda vague on this. Looking at TSB 00-090 and the link above it finally clicked in.

Maybe this can help somebody else.

D
Old 06-24-2011, 11:44 AM
  #8  
Honda-Tech Member
iTrader: (1)
 
E-Money's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2005
Location: reppin jerzey, USA
Posts: 2,301
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Default Re: Best way to troubleshoot real clunk?

hmm the preludes still have a noisy rear end. people still have knocks with aftermarket struts and springs.
Related Topics
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
Pworld925
Honda Civic / Del Sol (1992 - 2000)
5
10-05-2012 06:58 PM
Kat620
Honda Accord & Crosstour (2003 - 2012)
6
01-18-2012 11:20 AM
dragoscscc
Suspension & Brakes
3
06-24-2011 07:38 AM
teambk8
Honda Prelude
7
05-27-2009 06:55 PM



Quick Reply: Best way to troubleshoot real clunk?



All times are GMT -8. The time now is 02:57 AM.