mallonpaulj

Just wanted to add this pump repair applies to 92-93 Accords as well. The pump and accumulator assy is separate from the modulator, mounted directly below the battery. I found I had to disconnect the rubber high pressure brake line hose at the accumulator, and to remove the three bolts holding the pump to the bracket to get the pump/accumulator out of the car. Follow the pictures. The hardest part I found was getting the gold ring out. I tried it from the 'cage' openings but it just started to bend. I used a 90 degree pick on the edge and it came right out. Neat write up and the ABS light it out!! Thanks!! Tractor-man92

sophocha

THANK YOUUUU!!!

btw this works on all 90s european honda/rover models as well (I have a honda concerto)

specnaz

I'm having same issue as eagle458 on my Acura Vigor after doing this to my abs pump, anyone?
My pump seem to be working now but now I got new code for rear right wheel sensor

gold3nrul3

I just wanted to say THANKS THANKS THANKS for posting this. I did the fix in 2012 after having the ABS light on for like 3 years (and doing the code test) and then one day rear ending a lady (skidded 8 feet after slamming on brakes in an intersection), after the bearing cleaning, the ABS light never came on again (once or twice randomly but it's fine). I got the ABS system flushed by a HONDA DEALERSHIP after having a small-time shop "say" they flushed the ABS, but then I confirmed they only flushed the regular brake lines. It requires a special computer to plug into the passenger side cabin area to get the ABS system to engage properly to flush (I did first prime the pump before reinstalling, but the lines need to be flushed as well). I did repaint the bracket as well.

I know the ABS works now because we had icy weather a couple weeks ago and for the first time ever I felt the ABS engage. Just make sure you clean/check your ABS sensors before going through this pain in the *** repair!! Brake fluid all over my hands made them sweat for days. I learned my lesson regarding gloves but I feel so great every time I get in my car and the ABS light stays off and I hear the ABS system prime after backing out of my drive way.

THANKS AGAIN!!!

oh yeah I forgot to say I also broke the little T connector that attaches some hoses near the air intake so I had to wait for that to come in the mail (and got a check engine light in the mean time) before all was said and done. (just random broken piece didnt have to do with the ABS)

ki6eph

Excellent post! Thank you!

Now let me get everyone's thoughts on the problem I'm having now. I performed the fix as described in this post and I believe it was effective.

Before the fix the pump would run at a constant speed, as if it was not building up pressure. Now that I implemented the fix, it runs and bogs down as it builds up pressure. I can also see there is pressure by opening the bleed valve and repeating the process.

After reinstalling in the car, reconnecting everything and bleeding the brakes according to my Chilton's manual, I still get the ABS code 1. I can hear the pump build pressure, however it's like the system doesn't know the pressure is there. How likely is it the pressure sensor is bad? And does anyone know the proper way to test it?

So far, I relieved pressure in the system by opening the bleed valve, then connected an ohmmeter to the sensor lines which read open circuit. Then I manually ran the pump to build pressure and watched the ohmmeter go from open circuit to 0 ohms. To me that says the sensor is good, but I don't know for sure.

Any input or alternate test options are appreciated!

RussAdams

December 2014 bump from a complete noob on Honda-Tech:

FIRST: THANK YOU for a GREAT post! I'm game to give this and the o-ring fix a try if I can get a reasonably cheap replacement abs module.

BUT #1: Does anyone have a photo of what the ABS module/pump/accumulator for a 1995 Accord EX should look like? The 4 cylinder not 6 cylinder, if that makes a difference. I've been looking at eBay, and there are modules available in the 60 to 120 dollar range. But they don't look anything like the photo in this article.

I've owned this car since new and it has 122k miles on it now. The ABS pump was leaking starting several years ago, but I've been out of the country and the car was only rarely used. When loaned to friends. It's been sitting in the sun, poor thing, in Sarasota, Florida for almost 9 years.

Now I'm back in the States and moved to Virginia. I'm told the car will fail a safety test if the abs light is on. I want to use the car as a winter driver. I understand the pros and cons of abs versus pumping the brakes... I've had the car in winter in Cleveland, Ohio, where there's MUCH worse weather. I have to say the abs didn't seem to be terribly effective in Cleveland. I'd often get better results by pumping the brakes, even tho the abs 'worked'.

SO....

BUT #2: Do I try to fix the abs unit, or just take out the bulb when I replace the radio on Christmas?

After all, it DOES have 4 wheel disk brakes. Certainly much better than most cars I had through my early adulthood.

I'd really like to fix the abs to have the option. But - not at the cost of a couple grand!

If I could get a used one, I'd rebuild it myself and then have a local mechanic install it.

PHOTOS anyone?

THANKS for any help!!!!

Russ

PS - The abs used to leak fluid and if I filled the reservoir the lite would go out and the abs work. That top up method eventually stopped working and I doubt anyone who's used it the last 9 years ever bothered to top it up. So I'm expecting the pump to not work, and I don't hear any noise when I start the car.

SUPRAboy80

Great info in this thread guys.. Thank you

gold3nrul3

dude fix the ABS

I crashed into a lady because of skidding and if my abs worked I would have saved my front end, and my insurance bill and a ticket for "following too close"

Dregz

Hey guys, I hope this thread is still found! I have a spare prelude, and I am attempting to disassemble the abs pump. I followed the steps, but I cannot see the gold ring at all. I have the whole assembly removed, I then took the bolts out and separated the two parts. I was able to take the black top off it but I cannot see the gold ring. Here is some images to explain better...

Can anyone help? I have no clue how to get inside, shown in the last image.














Cheers guys!

gold3nrul3

lol dude I did that same thing... the black casing is supposed to stay bolted ( those 4 little spring magnets are a pain in the *** to get back in)

the bearings are underneath the piece that isn't in ur pictures.

Dregz

I gave up, had a beer, sat down and looked at it again, I noticed a small crack and realised that's what it meant to hit it with a hammer.. I lost two of those springs. But this was a test anyway, I have the other ABS pump still bolted into my car.. It was just a spare. Do you know if the car starts without the pump in there at all? I thought I could take the fuse out and remove it, drive around without it while I slowly clean it over a series of weeks. haha

aprizigl

I have had the 51-3 code on my 02 Honda Accord, V6 model. I am having a difficult time finding the problem... do you think you can help me?

Andrew

bestcarieverown

well i ended up getting another abs module from junk yard price was $67.99 followed instructions up until i got to the cage and found there were 4 tiny crimps around the outer part that was holding it in there,once i got two of them straightened out it popped out,then i used a cordless drill to hold the edge of the pins and used 400 sandpaper,switching them back and forth,then used a screwdriver with sandpaper wrapped around it to do the inside holes with the drill,took less than 10 minutes and the pins were free floating,put it back together,installed and it worked great, thank you for this post i was almost ready to buy new,now glad i didn't

H22 CB

I know this thread is super old, but it seems to get an annual update, so here goes...

I pulled the pump apart from my 92 Accord and got the gold ring out, but the piece with the dowels in it will not budge. It seems to be held in by the black ring in this picture, but can't get that thing to budge. Not sure if that's what the last post was mentioning, but that didn't help me here. Any thoughts?

anoakgrovekid

I just finished this job with my 93 accord, and with luck, as of now, the ABS light is gone, and the problem is fixed.

Based off your pic, it seems as if you could just yank the thing in the middle out... not sure why it's not coming out... be careful b/c after it comes out, don't loose a white plastic washer that fits over the motor shaft/ under the spinning removable piece. I cleaned up the parts really well and put everything back together and it works great.

I do have 1 question: How necessary is it to bleed the brakes after doing this job. For my 93 accord, it seems as if the ABS modular system is independent of the car's normal brake system/master cylinder. After pressurizing and purging the abs pump motor of air, and replacing brake fluid in the ABS fluid container, it seems as if I had not affected the normal brake system.. Am I wrong in assuming that it's not necessary to bleed the brakes after this job?

Thank you!

gold3nrul3

only thing holding it in would be the bearings if they are stuck in a sticking out position... nothing else holds that in

gold3nrul3

Okay, so I just looked over the system in the Manual and two things...

1. Yes you are incorrect you will need to bleed the regular brake lines. The brake lines that you removed from the ABS Unit came from the Calipers and the Master Cylinder, they are the normal brake system.
   The normal brake lines and fluid run through the ABS unit at all times. The good thing is the Master Cylinder and the ABS Modulator fluid don't appear to mix, even when ABS is not being used. They both operate in the same piston, but the ABS Modulator fluid pushes the piston from the bottom, and the Master cylinder fluid operates in the middle of the piston.
2. Second, you are probably okay without getting the ABS Unit bled (having done it yourself) because the fluid from the ABS reservoir is self contained in the ABS modulator/pump system. It doesn't exit via any lines so there's no other places for air to enter.
   
   However, I would recommend getting the ABS unit (specifically) bled by a Honda place because the unit needs to be "engaged" by the "ALB Checker" tool in order to be bled. The ABS pistons run 3 separate lines (one for each front wheel, one for the rear wheels-the rear pistons are connected), each of these lines gets fluid so has the potential for air... I'm not sure if the method the OP recommends removes air from those pistons but I doubt it. It probably just engages the pump/accumulator. The actual valves that push fluid to the pistons need to be opened/closed in order for the bleed to occur, and just running the pump does not engage the solenoids...
   
   
   
   

Klr Rider

in the pressure switch harness side connector, does pin 2 measure continuity to ground as it should? The switch connects pin 2 to pin 1 when pressure is attained, and grounding the pin 1 signal to the ABS control module should tell it that it's up to pressure. See if you read voltage to ground when the car is switched on, since it has a pull-up on the signal. If not, check wiring to the control module for a possible open circuit.

In the pump gunk cleaning process, is it possible to remove just the pump without removing the whole assembly? Or is the only way to disconnect all the hydraulic lines and take it out together? Rather not open all the hydraulic lines if possible.

johnardo

Exellent write up. But there is no need to remove the coplete abs system. You can just remove the pump assembly from the bracket,this will require you to bend up one of the mounts but that is no big issue as it is easy to bend. Secondly do not use anything other than paper or cloth while cleaning the parts,you should feel a slight ressistance when pushing the pins in order for them to be tight enough to actually generate pressure.

kakimble

1993 Honda Prelude SI, ABS Code 1, pics are gone for the fix.

snobordboy

Looks like the OP had the pics on Photobucket. He has not been on H-T in the last month, so hopefully he logs on and can re-host the pics elsewhere.

zedjr

Can i see a pic of that pick you used on the gold ring and maybe how you used it. I got a set of different picks that i am bending and trying. But nothing works.

mallonpaulj

I used a cheapo set of picks from Harbor Freight. There is a pick pic further up in the thread that looks like it worked as well. Had to keep at it, pulling at multiple places around the gold ring without bending it.

juniorpeterle

Thanks friend. I got resolution the issue of my ABS!

Alizone

I wanted to say thank you for this write up. I bought a 95 civic and the abs light was on. I found this write up but thought i would just buy one from the junk yard. Well i was testing it first before i put it in. And guess what i ended up having to do it anyway. The write up was the same for the civic, except the motor power and ground has top be disconnected. The gold ring is the real hard part.