gnxpro24

iTrader: (1)

Hey guys I am experiencing some issues. I'm really good at wiring, I even make my own tuck harnesses, but this one has me stumped. The alternator went out about 2 weeks ago so I replaced it. Then 4 days ago the alternator went out again along with fuse 14. Took the alternator to auto zone and it failed all tests, so I bought a brand new one. Installed it and replaced the fuse....... 5 times. Every time I would drive the car or let it idle for about 4 minutes the fuse would blow. Took it to auto zone to get it tested and the blk/yellow wire under the dash by the computer fried. I replaced the bit of wire and unplugged both fuse boxes to check for anymore bad wiring, plugged everything back in and now the car won't start. Can't even hear the fuel pump prime.

Now fuse 4 ACG-s fuse (whatever the hell that is) blows as soon as you try to replace it. So now I have two fuse issues

ACG fuse doesn't blow with main relay unplugged but it does as soon as you plug one in. Ive tried 4 different relays.

I just thought about this. Three weeks ago my car kept dying so that led me to discover that the 90amp battery fuse was replaced by the owner with a broken piece of wire. When we went to jump the car, the jumpers were already hooked up to my battery, my friend touched the negative jumper to their own positive which is what fried the first alternator. Last week that alternator took a **** along with the fuse 14 so I replaced the alternator with a brand new one. I'm guessing the whole reverse jumper situation is what started all this Bullshit but then again makes me wonder why the previous owner had blown the battery fuse.....

Newest update. I jump the service connector and it won't throw the code it has stored also will not allow an obd2 scan tool to work

Former User

You have a short in the Blk/Yel wire that you have not yet located. Finding and fixing the short should solve your problem.

But your thread may not stay in the 92-00 Civic forum.

gnxpro24

iTrader: (1)

So what do you advise? Tear apart the entire interior harness until I find the problem? Also would that explain the main relay issues too?

Former User

Use your multimeter to short test (continuity to body ground) different wire segments between connectors in the fuse 14 circuit.

gnxpro24

iTrader: (1)

What about fuse 4, for the main relay bs

gnxpro24

iTrader: (1)

So other than tearing apart the entire harness what's the preferred way to locate a short

snobordboy

Wire by wire go through the harness and test for continuity and draw.

gnxpro24

iTrader: (1)

Found the little bastard. I pulled apart all the wiring under the dash from fuse box to multiplex. The black yellow wire was fried the whole way from the chassis plug above the ecu to a junction by the heater blower. Now there's two black/yellow wires going into that junction. I'm going to replace what was fried and bypass the junction in case the junction was what was at fault. Now my question is, should I do this to all the common wires going to the junction just in case there's a failure inside the junction, or should I just leave the rest of the wires alone going through the junction?

gnxpro24

iTrader: (1)

Fixed the black/yellow wire and inspected every wire to both fuse boxes and all under dash wiring and the fuse for the main relay still blows

gnxpro24

iTrader: (1)

Anyone?

gnxpro24

iTrader: (1)

Really? No one knows?

Josue Godinez

Here lately am having the same issue.. gonna take my dash out soon ., sadly

Tommy Law

I know this is way old but unfortunately you have to isolate a wire when troubleshooting. Only trick I can offer is to start by going somewhere in middle of circuit preferably a connector then test each direction. Then once you find which half is good then you keep doing that on the side thats shorted. Jiggle the wires can help find if its a loose connection or something else. Make sure no little strands are sticking out of connections that may do it. Power Probe is a huge help over DMM for this I just got one recently and never realized what a wonderful tool it is. I have Fluke testers out the butt and swore I didnt need a PP but I was wrong.

Tommy Law

PM me I have the wire diagrams for it I can help out cant post it due to that copyright issue but can help you .I have found that due to the age the wiring is just a P.I.T.A to get all good.