kevin2m4

ok so i bought a 1998 automatic lude with a broken crank bolt and screwed engine.
these are my thoughts on a new one to swap in

i can get a F20B
JDM Honda Accord SIR F20B Blue Top 2.0L DOHC Vtec Engine 1997-2001

Specifications::
Make: Honda/Acura
Year: 1997-2001
Valve Train: DOHC, VTEC, 16 Valve
Transmission: Hydraulic 5speed / Automatic
Displacement: 1998cc
Compression: 11.0:1
HP: 200 @ 6800rpm
Torque: 147 lb-ft @ 7500rpm

for 900$

or
H23A VTEC, CH9 Accord Wagon SiR
Compression ratio: 10.6:1
Max output : 200 PS (197 hp/147 kW) @ 6800 rpm
Max torque : 220 N·m (160 ft·lbf) @ 5300 rpm
Redline: 7000 rpm

for 1200$

or i can get a regualr h22 for 950...

im kinda interested in the blue top ones, but im scared of the ease of the swap, if parts will be hard to find (ie what timing belt, or if somthing breaks where to get a new part) the wiring harness, (ie will my stock one make it work) the computer (will stock h22 one run them) and whats really worth it.

i plan on driving the car for the spring and then selling it.
please vote and post why.

mgags7

if you were going to keep it:

the h23vtec looks like a deal to me...h23vtec and you don't even have to open her up and let the reliability fairies out

everything should be pretty straightforward with the swap, use all h22 parts with it

It will probably run just fine with the stock computer, and you'll probably need that for inspection time, but if it was me I'd tune it.

since you're selling it:

just toss another h22 in it, it will be much easier to sell

WhiteSol

H23vtec and F20B will require you to use the upper section of the H22 manifold because they both use a 3 wire IACV, and the 2 wire will not bolt on in its place. On the F20b you'll need to switch over the drivers side mount bracket and timing belt covers too.. can't remember much else that was different though.

I've never tested the F20B or H23vtec injectors, so without knowing the specific CC's its hard to say how it will run on a P5M ecu.. What I do know is that the F20B runs like crap on stock injectors and an P13 ecu, waaay too rich. The H23v might be a bit better as I would think the injectors would be nearly the same size as the H22.

As for parts replacement, the majority of H22 parts will fit both bluetops.

My vote is for H22a as well, H23v doesn't have oil squirters = less reliability.. more torque, longer stroke = more rod spin yay! F20B with even less torque in a 3000lb car = fail.

kevin2m4

ok will do h22

nordicninjalude

good decision

jdmeurorlude

boooo do the f20b swap

stock04

if you're just going to sell it, id go with the h22...

iwanttokillgod

a whole $300 more for the h23vtec yeah really need to bring your wallet dont cheap out get the h23vtec

jnv255

You could buy my spare engine for 700$ obo. it come out of a 98 prelude.. It's got jdm cams, but it needs 8 intake valves.

iwanttokillgod

**** you can buy perfect running h22s for less than $700 why buy a broken pos for $700

jnv255

Kill yourself

Apex1972

ha ha ha h ah ah ah ahahah ah ah ahha ha

NirVTEC

As much TQ as you can get
/done
An F20 is a downgrade no matter how you cut it.....

churn dasher

Blacktrax.NET makes a plate so u can bolt the two wire iac valve to the H23A intake manifold im getting one for mine