98vtec

man thats old school lol

now I am into new school stuff:

ludeandrew91

Now that I've come to the conclusion that this will be nearly a daily driver for me, and I do wish to turbo it or supercharge (still on the fence), I do know I would like to take the safe route and lose the vtec. I'm sure its do able, but I think just turboing a non vtech H23A may be my best option at this point.

Above someone had mentioned possibly using the bottom end of my H22A that I have in it now, and combining it with the H23A head. Probly a stupid, but, does that basically mean I'll keep my H22 block, upgrade the necessary internals(cylinders,not really sure what else, still reading in my spare time), then bolt on the H23A head with its valves, and so on?

If so what would be the potential benefit compared to just "beefing up" an H23A engine itself? thanks again for the patience

Also a side note, anyone know a decently reliable jdm engine company I could find what I'm looking for from? I want to buy the engine so I can get any other parts I want to put on it when I drop it in prior to actually putting it in. As well as a tranny. Planning on painting in between the swap as well. Until then just get the engine, bolt on some headers most likely, clean it up and prep to drop it in.

1funryd

I would suggest just pickup an H23a1 from your nearest junkyard in WA, and go from there. No need to pay for a better motor just to take it apart.

Plus its cheaper that way and you will get to learn the ins and outs of an H motor.

ludeandrew91

But is the worry of adding a turbo to a vtec engine really worth all the hype? Or does it really boil down to just bad mechanical work and tuning or lack of tuning in general?

I know I need to avoid trying to turbo an SH set up if that were all I could get my hands on, but would turboing my stock H22A vtec really be such a bad thing if I open it up and sleeve it?

thirsk66

iTrader: (2)

Why would you want to lose VTEC and then bolt on a h23a head? That just doesn't make sense at all. There is no "HYPE" around turbocharging an h22 vtec engine or any Honda engine for that matter, there is just proper builds using good quality parts and doing it right the first time. Tuning is a different issue, just take it to a well known tuner who does this for a profession and you are good to go.

And you have it in your head that since your prelude is an SH model its a piece of junk, it isn't you can build up your car in a lot of different ways and have many different end results its all up to you and your ideas in your mind and #1 your wallet. I think you should do whatever you want to do to your prelude even if it is an SH model that should not stop you from making it into what you envision.

Turbocharging your stock h22 wouldn't be a bad thing just do it the right way and play it safe no need to over boost the thing. And sleeving would be dumb without fully building it internally from top to bottom, adding sleeves only reinforces the cylinder walls what about upgrading the rest of it? From my perspective you seem to be so caught up with trying to figure out a build and what is best to do right now and going back and forth between every option, you need to just relax and figure out what is the best option for you to do right now and for the long run in the future. I know it isn't very easy but it will come to you and it will all work out in the end. People don't build their cars overnight it takes time, patience and money. Plus if you don't remember to have fun with building your car then it will just feel like huge waste in the end, we build these cars as a reflection of ourselves. Good-luck with your decision and everything.

ludeandrew91

true enough. I've just seen most people saying that the SH's active torque transfer system tends to have issues after 230hp, which I will reach even without a turbo or charger.

As I said for now I just want to if possible in the next couple years get her up the the boosting point. As for until then it sounds like basically playing with a good header (found Mugen for $1400, damn.), exhaust, air intake, throttle body (I know its not much of an upgrade, just caught my interest) will serve as plenty of power with a proper tuning. Aside from the boosting my only other question is any input on Phearable ecus. From what I can understand, so far, is that I would want a P28 and start with that. If I want to get a little more into depth with it in the future I can add Hondata to it, but to be honest I don't know basically **** about either of those but its on the list of to read up on.

Sounds like sleeving would really be pointless unless I'm trying to run 10+psi out of the turbo or charger, which would I'm sure eventually destroy the internals. So for now I'll set that one on the side burner as well.

Does anyone on here reading this thread own or have owned an SH and opened it up a bit? Typically from what I read it just sends off a dash light and doesnt work, but I'm not 100% sure if it honestly bothers anything else or not. Everytime I read a thread on it someone starts rambling on about something else and I give up at that point. If I can do it and do it safely then I'll turbo the **** out of this engine since its got 96k on it, and bone stock, still has the original stereo ha but not for long. I drove it all the way from Reno to an hour or so north of Seattle, WA just to get it. Threw $500 on it in november to hold it the minute I saw it and read up on it, and flew down about 2-3 weeks ago finally to pick it up.

thirsk66

iTrader: (2)

Yeah phearable ecus are good but I just do not really like the customer service I received from them for a premium basemap I bought off them. And as far as the upgrades get a tri-y header they make decent power from what I have seen, the mugen header is cool and all but I think for $1400 that is super steep. The intake is good get a cold air intake and for the throttle body it does you best to port match the opening on the intake manifold to get the most out of it.

The p28 is an obd1 ecu that came out of the 1992-1995 civic ex with d16z6 engine. At phearable or any place that is offering a chipped ecu they will chip and socket it for you, and all you have to do is buy an obd2a to obd1 ecu jumper harness plug it in to your car and go. As well as the basemap chip to run in the ecu should come with the ecu also that should be good enough for you to run until you make it to the tuners for a dyno session.

ludeandrew91

ATTS light and engine light just came on today on the way home from work. Was on a bumpy road when it came on, thoughts?

thirsk66

iTrader: (2)

Try resetting your ecu by pulling the 7.5 amp radio fuse from the under hood fuse box, see if that helps with it at all.

ludeandrew91

engine light is off now, but atts light remains. Going to replug it into my carMD, first code reading was 1456, it was a fuel issue, I believe it was just the gas cap because thats all I did and it went away a couple days later. But tomorrows reading will show if anything else is setting it off, regardless I get paid next week and plan to flush my tranny and the atts to make sure everything is clean and happy.

ludeandrew91

Quick question, looked a bit but just found a lot of arguing really.

Just installed an AEM cai today and shes lovin it, also had to replace the right tail light gasket (had to in my 89 as well when I had it, go figure), and pick up a honda emblem on craigslist for my trunk.

Now its time for an exhaust, since I want the car to breathe and tune it once I buy and install the PLM Tri-y header, I'm leaning towards a 3in custom set up. However I don't know what to do as far as muffler, tip, and catalytic converter.

In my mind I would want a cat back exhaust if possible, correct? My question being then if I get a custom 3 in set up done at a shop here locally, does the exhaust tip and muffler I buy make it a cat back?

Stupid question, have some patience and school a fool


thanks