Freemananana

iTrader: (3)

The car is a 2007 base model, manual, Honda Fit. When I'm stopped and in neutral, with the clutch pedal not pushed in, there is a considerable amount of clicking/rattling sound coming from the engine bay. When I push in the clutch, it goes away. The noise is significantly more noticeable when the AC is running. However, you can't hear it when the doors are shut. Is this just a normal amount of engine noise from these cars? I just noticed it when I got out of the car and it was running the other day.

Off topic, but does anyone have advice for troubleshooting P0420 CEL on these cars? It is the catalytic converter below efficiency CEL and I have no other lights. I don't have emissions so I haven't really cared about it much. I'd prefer the light to be off, obviously, but I'm not really in a rush to put a new OEM cat on the car if I don't have to.

Thanks

claymore

Usually a noise like yours that goes away when the clutch is depressed is a bad throwout bearing.

To defeat the converter light you can try using a "spark plug anti fouling adapter" sold in parts houses they have the right sized threads so you can pull the sensor back further out of the exhaust stream and screw it back into the adapter.

Freemananana

iTrader: (3)

That does make sense. I was looking up clutch replacement and it seems you have to remove quite a bit. I may have to make a stop at a shop for this and just replace the whole clutch and pressure plate while the transmission is out for the throwout bearing. Is the Exedy stage 1 still a decent clutch for these cars? I just want something really basic, but maybe a slight upgrade over OE.

claymore

It is a big job and you are on the right track replacing everything while it is apart. with the mileage you have it is getting pretty close to being needed anyway.

Yes is is still a good choice.

Freemananana

iTrader: (3)

The car is at 70,000 miles right now, but that doesn't mean the clutch hasn't been abused. I did notice the inspection plate is missing, so I'll get one of those too. Possible road debris in my clutch area isn't ideal.

Thanks, now I'm just getting quotes from my two trusted local mechanics and the Honda dealership.

EDIT:

Honda dealership quoted me $1,876.25 for the install with parts. Labor was "about $1,000". So nearly $850 in parts? The Exedy clutch kit is $130 or so. I'm waiting on my local mechanic to call back. He has always been fair with me. I expect him to be more in the $300-500 range for labor. I just don't want to pull the subframe on this car.

claymore

It can be done from the top.

Freemananana

iTrader: (3)

I'll have to look at some more write ups then. I didn't know it could be done from the top. I read it can be done with the subframe in the car, which would be nice.

claymore

It's not a job for beginners and you need some muscle to slide the trans out far enough but if you have changed one on another Honda model it's not too bad.

Freemananana

iTrader: (3)

I did the motor swap in my other Honda along with coilovers and stuff like that. I know I could do it, but time isn't really something I have much of anymore. I called my local shop, $400 installed out the door. So I'm scheduling it for this week.

wdb

You sound really knowledgeable and I'm not disagreeing, just curious. Why would a bad throwout bearing - or a good one for that matter - make any noise at all when it the clutch pedal is released? It should just be sitting there in the bell housing, not doing anything.

My initial thought was input shaft bearing/bushing making the noise. (I hope for the OP's sake that it's the clutch stuff!) The input shaft spins in neutral ,or in any gear, whenever the clutch pedal is released.

ferio-ichi3

Input shaft bearing makes a noise when clutch is not pressed, throw out bearing makes noise when clutch is pressed in :thumbsup:

Freemananana

iTrader: (3)

This is what I've read. I'll have to research it more as far as cost and such. I may have to put it off for awhile. The input bearing just sounds annoying.

It doesn't make the noise all the time and it isn't noticeable inside the car.

wdb

At the end of the day it's the same deal - you have to crack it open and as long as you're in there you should replace all the wear parts.

claymore

LOL

Freemananana

iTrader: (3)

Blah. Sounds expensive. I really don't want to drop the trans and all that myself. I know it will take me a long time, even more so since it is 100 degree outside. I'll get some quotes.

What are some other 'wear' parts?

wdb

Clutch disc
Pressure plate
Throwout bearing/bushing
Input shaft bearing/bushing
Flywheel (resurface)
Starter gear ring on flywheel
Muffler bearings

Freemananana

iTrader: (3)

Just to clarify, the input shaft bearing is number 6 on this diagram?




"91002-PS0-013 006 001 BEARING, BALL (26X58X15) (NTN)"

Thanks WDB, I will check into all of those.

ferio-ichi3

Why the hell you going to change the input shaft bearing? If it aint broke, dont fix it. Change the throw out brearing, and thats it. Does your tranny shift fine? Any weird noises aside from the t.o.b? If no, then do not touch anything else. You will likely do more harm than good if you dont know what you are doing.

ferio-ichi3

Tell me how you going to check muffler bearings?lol i told you what needs to be done.

Freemananana

iTrader: (3)

It makes noise with the clutch pedal released and in neutral which is not the throw out bearing from what I have read. It doesn't make any noise when I push in the pedal. So by not fixing the issue, I'm not getting anywhere. That's why I'm asking? You did tell me what to do, which is exactly what I am going to do.

I'm having an actual mechanic do the work. I could easily do the work myself, but time is something I really don't have. The input shaft bearing can't be any more difficult than a LSD, can it?

Freemananana

iTrader: (3)

I did say I would check 'into' what he mentioned. I haven't began to research or read up on anything.

wdb

The muffler bearing thing was just a test. All the rest are wear parts, which is not to say that they are in need of replacement. Also I forgot to mention the pilot bearing/bushing.

Usually labor costs are high enough to make replacing everything the economical choice but everyone's economy is different.

Freemananana

iTrader: (3)

The cost of removing the trans is really worth getting everything done while it is outside of the vehicle.

ferio-ichi3

I was thinking of throw out bearing lol got mixed up one that one. If it makes noise when the clutch is NOT pressed its input shaft. You will have to open the trans to get it. Its the top bearing thatll usually get stuck in the housing once youll pull it off. Most of the work is getting the trans out and pulling the casing off, but since you arent doing the work, get ready to payyyyyy. Try finding a cheap fit tranny to swap in, then you can fix your own at your own pace.

Freemananana

iTrader: (3)

I'll look into a replacement trans, but the real issue is just the pulling of the trans out. I'm pretty sure I could replace the bearing in an afternoon myself and have the shop reinstall it.

The shop quoted me $400 to remove the trans, replace the clutch/pressure plate/throwout bearing, resurface the flywheel, and reinstall everything. I thought that was fair because I know it would take me a few afternoons to do that amount of work.

I'm stopping by the shop, he is going to drive it and look at it this afternoon. He said it could still possibly be the throwout bearing despite the symptoms. I'm inclined to believe him a little bit because he really hasn't done me wrong in the past. Although, he said it is still probably the ISB that is making the noise.

What does a new/used/rebuilt fit trans go for?