DG2klx

2002 CRV, Keyless entry issue. FOB locks the doors just fine, but does not unlock when the button is pushed. Lights on car blink, so it gets a signal from the FOB, but does not unlock.

I got this CRV used, while changing out the Evap canister solenoid, I found a key taped to the rear axle. Pulled it off, it unlocked the doors. It turned the ignition. It did not however, start the car. Turns far enough but the starter will not engage. Key must not be properly coded, but has the correct cut. Ever since, this issue has developed.

Is this some type of security protection? What is the solution?

dogbiscuit

there's a sequence to re-learn the key fob.

I'm not 100% certain if that's the right process for the crv. but it's worth a shot.

DG2klx

I did get the key fob to re-program. But it did not seem to help. Here is a little more info after working with it a few more minutes.

The key fob will lock and unlock all doors EXCEPT the drivers door. You must use the key to lock or unlock the drivers door, using the key does lock all the doors. Once the drivers door has been locked with a key, the fob only makes the lights blink. The other doors no longer lock or unlock by the FOB until the drivers door is unlocked with the key. Once they key unlocks the drivers door, the other doors will now lock and unlock by the FOB again.

i64X

I had a similar issue with my old CRV. What I had to do was take the drivers door apart, take out the "box" that has the locking actuator in it for the drivers side, pull some plastic off of the outside so I could get to the "guts" of the thing, and then lube the hell out of it. There are metal pieces in there that get rusty over time and being textured with rust and oxidation vs just being smooth metal on smooth metal, are hard to actuate. The actuator in the door isn't strong enough to unlock the door due to this friction, but you inserting and turning a key is strong enough to do it.

The lock computer thinks that the drivers door is locked, or is in a state where it can't be locked with the remote (for example, when it's open) because it doesn't sense that the door was electronically locked. After cleaning mine out so the fob worked to lock and unlock it 100% of the time, everything functioned completely normal after that.

You have to be careful when you repeatedly lock and unlock doors when they're in that seized state. The gears and the little arm that actually move to lock the doors are plastic and they WILL break. When that happens you have to pull the box WAY apart and swap out parts, which you can't buy separately - meaning that you have to buy either a.) a replacement box where the actuator is bad but all of the plastic parts are still good and then do some part swapping (cheaper) or b.) buy a fully functional replacement box to swap out (more expensive).

Corrosion between the parts in those boxes can also cause issues with the doors. Recently I had an issue where my rear passenger door, which hardly ever gets used, was opened and then the metal parts in that box that actuate the door latch actually stuck it in the "open" state so the door wouldn't latch when it was closed. That also required pulling out the box and cleaning stuff up and greasing it. I've had this happen on two 1st gen CRVs. I'm assuming it's somewhat common. It's kinda a pain at first, but you get good at getting everything apart quickly once you've done it a couple times. I can usually rip open a door, pull the box out, fix it, and have it back installed in 20-30 minutes.

Hope that was clear enough.

dogbiscuit

any kind of writeup on this anywhere? I haven't attempted this yet but I think my drivers side is seized up. I would like to get them all out and PB Blast the **** out of them get them moving. then white lithium the **** out of them.

0Steve@Spreen

Buy a new actuator...it's $58 (OEM) and well worth the expense versus taking apart the actuator and re-lubricating everything. Warranty on new part: 1 year, warranty on lubricating the old actuator: none. Don't cheap out on your CR-V

dogbiscuit

its a door lock.... not very critical of a piece. you can come up with 100 scenarios as to why it may be slightly critical in some scenario. but if it's starting to get rusty and I can clean it up and same myself some money, why the hell not. Then again I like to fix and restore **** that other people might throw out because sometimes a little TLC is all some things need. but thanks for your opinion. and not cheaping out i've put over 2k into it in the last month. I'm tired of being broke because of it.

I guess when your windows start rolling up slowly you just replace the whole track instead of applying some silicone lubricant?.... you sound rich? will you buy me new lock actuators?

i64X

I lubed mine and they've been fine. You'll have to do the same amount of work regardless if you fix yours or buy new.

DG2klx

Well, I would not see an easy way to get into one and try to lube it. From the way mine was acting I would say it was an electrical failure of the servo motor.

Anyway, this solved my problem.

For write ups on it, there are a couple YOUTUBE videos I found that covered it pretty close.

You have to bear with this guys monotone...

This guy has a better voice, similar set up...

I went with the window up method. It is the only one that I see working, the window when down would be in your way. The first video is accurate to a 2002 CRV, I will try to be a little more descriptive. The basic steps are the same. Remove the "sail" over the mirror, the cover over the screws in the door handle pocket and two screws behind it, remove two screws in the door arm rest area as shown in the videos. then just liek in the videos, remove the one push in fastener under the mirror area, and pull the bottom and sides to pop the fasteners out. Now you can lift the interior door cover up and off.

For me, I pulled and turned the door handle piece and pushed it through its own hole in the door interior cover. I also found the wiring to the power windows and such was wire tied to the door. I could not get the wire tie plugs out of the interior door cover, so I cut the ties and put new wire ties in for reassembly.

Now you should have the interior door panel off. Like in the videos, pull the plastic back, remove the 10mm bolt holding the window track in place. Also pull the plastic plug and the white plastic piece up and out as shown in the videos.

Now here is where mine got different. I pulled the wiring plugs out of the actuator, then I had to remove the three screws fastening the assembly to the door itself. This will let you pull the assembly back to the big hole in the door panel. On the side that faces the interior is a metal cover with a screw in the middle, you have to pull the screw and remove that cover. Now you can pull the actuator out of the assembly by popping the clips that hold it on each side. If you look at your new piece, you will see where two tabs slide into grooves to mount it. Slide the old one out, line up the **** with the flat sides so it fits into the pocket in the lock assembly in the door. Push the new one in. Reverse the process for reassembly.