ConfusedEGCoupe

Hello H-T
I have a 1999 Honda Crv EX. and I was considering going Crvtec just I wanted to add a little umph, I know alot of people are going to think WTF is the point of using a vtec head on an auto crv but I feel my CRV lacks a lil power for the weight of the car. Also no one around here has one like mine (lowered, Tl wheels ect...) so might as well add a little bit more to its uniqueness.

Obviously I wont be revving the car excessively because it is automatic like i said i just want to add a little bit of power so I guess my main concern is what ECU would I run because it is auto? 1999 CRV is OBD2B <<< Is this correct?

Thanks in advance for any tips/ suggestions.

Project Phoenix

I have a tip. Look for a used JSRC for a LS, dyno proven easy power.Nice fit for an auto. No real loss in terms of real world reliability
Moss Motors shows 172/147 on a 99 with intake , exhaust and fuel pump and their JSRC kit

Not trashing your plan ( Im doing a CRVtec setup as well) Just another potential solution

94EG8

None. Nothing else will control the CR-V tranny properly. You really need a chipped and tuned OBD1 ECU for something like a CR-Vtec. Even somewhat close OBD2 ECU wont have the right shift points for the auto trans though.

qwrty

somebody from this site already did that... auto crvtec w/ dyno figures, try to search
for it.. i think its a green crv. as far as the vtec engagement, you could use a separate
vtec controller... or a chipped auto p28?? <-long shot! lol... i know that theres a auto
b16 from japan... idk how's the tranny computer will be, coz from what i know, it is already
integrated into obd2 ecu's. so a separate vtec controller would be your best bet!

ConfusedEGCoupe

Thanks for the idea Phoenix but thats not really were a i was going with this I also have an EK hatch as my project do ill dump the Boost or something into that hopefully.

I also forgot to mention that I do have the RT-AWD setup which is another reasons i was so worried about the ECU in between that and the way the car would shift, I don't know if that would effect anything. I saw a Auto GS-R ECU about a week ago n CL but idk how legit that is seeing as i've never seen one.

And qwrty thanks for the heads up on what thread to look for on here as far as trying to follow someone else's steps. I've followed some of your stuff just wanted to let you know your BOSS. When it comes to V's are you going to the upcoming Honda-Day? Also do you have any recommendations as far as adding a lil pep in the step of my V.

qwrty

im no boss.. im just sharing a lots of my misfortunes and discoveries while im messing up
with couple of my Vs.. LOL! i might have 4 cars to run on honda day 2-3 crv's and 1 teg,
hopefully 3 cars to display.. i have to talk to the shop i go to if their putting up a booth
so we could all hang out there and do my bbq'n and grilln' LOL! then on sunday we'll all
run for the road course if it pushes through.. idk if they have the road course on sked but
definitely we'll have several of our "eco-tuned" cars to run on the strip and get a time slip!


ill try to search for the TS who made his V vtec and post up the link here...
G/L! on your proj!

94EG8

Auto GS-Rs don't exist in north america. The did have them in Japan though, they were called an SiR-G or Si-Vtec depending on the year. The OBD1 ECU definitely can't be used as it uses a separate TCM (OBD2B Integras and CR-Vs have the TCM integrated into the ECU) and you can't chip them anyway (they're OBD1 but with a square OBD2 style eprom) The OBD2 version probably wont work due to different gear ratios, you can't even use a JDM auto CR-V tranny in a USDM CR-V with USDM ECU for that reason, it throws a CEL usually they'll shift a little funny due to slightly different gear ratios) the other side of it is a JDM ECU wont communicate with a scan tool which matters if you have emissions testing in your state.

qwrty

btw....
godspeedcrv/kidflavor is the one who has the other auto crv that did the b20v conversion,
he used a vafc to control the vtec engagement and a/f ratio... the other one ive been
looking coz he had a video posted during the dyno run....

ConfusedEGCoupe

Bumping this old thread up because I have another Cr-V and I'd still love to make this happen.

PhilStubbs

The only real option is a vafc. Obd1 cars have separate tcu's from the ecu. Also, obd1 cars use a kickdown cable and obd2 use tps.

EsotericImage

iTrader: (8)

All the $$ needed to make this happen could just fund the head to be shaved/ported/polished, add a set of decent drop in cams (nothing extreme) and use a FPR to boost the pressure a touch.

The ECU should see the changes in the AFR and adjust itself.


All the power is in the head and the P75 heads are the worst flowing of Bseries engines. If you clean that up, then it should reward you with a nice power bump.

Also, shaving the head should bump up the compression for better MPG's & throttle response. Theres plenty of room on these heads so piston to valve contact isnt an issue.

85_sr_seville

X2 I used a B&M modifier on a ITR rail and FPR. Bumping the compression up just a hair won't net you much of a gain but it can help with the throttle response. PnP will net a little more ummph along with the higher compression. If it were me I'd wire both ECUs up and have the OBD1 control the motor and the OEM for emissions sensors (if required) and the transaxle. It can be done, I believe there is a thread in the tuning section on here for dual ECUs.

Chris

PhilStubbs

Ummm... No. The ecu can compensate somewhat at idle and part throttle. Probably not enough and o2 is ignored above 70%-ish throttle.

EsotericImage

iTrader: (8)

exactly, i wasnt talking about a 445 lift.. but an oem drop in replacement will be fine. WOT is always open loop anyways.

85_sr_seville

IF I am not mistaken it will compensate for a small bump in size, say 50-60cc/min.

Chris

PhilStubbs

Open loop will be too lean wide open with any cam and proper port work. I have been tuning cars for a solid 8 years. Any time I get a car with cams and stock injectors the duty cycle is up there pretty good.

85_sr_seville

Agreed. I haven't been tuning for quite as long but I have been around enough tuners that I hear the same recommendation all the time for those mods and that is to bump up to at least slightly larger injectors.

Chris

Willard2080

What did you end up doing? I just got me a crv with a bad head and started to think i should go the same route. let me know please

stangrcr1

I have a question. Are you really after daily driver power or racing hp?

The CRV is not a racing platform. I can't understand how someone would want a power adder that only comes in over 4k rpm. If your CRV is an auto, it won't last long with that high rpms.

Go for some low end grunt. Add compression. Port the head. Maybe a JRSC.

I want a CRV that drives well. I would love to have a 12 second car, but that will not happen with a CRV without a motor swap.

Where is reality?

What do you really want? Vtec will not help if you won't use it daily driving...

EsotericImage

iTrader: (8)

I dont know about you guys' comments or tuners recommendations....

throwing a small cam in there, then taking to dyno to set the fuel pressure to get the AFR's close to stock. People do this with B20 swaps all the time when using a P75 to make up for the larger 2 liter.

Why would someone need larger injectors for a small cam? People use OEM injectors for low boost projects all the time. If they can handle a turbo, then a small cam will be no problem.

Dont believe me?

Evans Tuning rates OEM 240's for 170-180WHP which alot more then the NA B20 will put out.

www.evans-tuning.com/pre-tuning-checklist/


But you guys do what you want..

85_sr_seville

Yes, its a Recommendation not you have to do this but its recommended since you have to tune anyway and can lower the duty cycle of the injector so its not working as hard or heating up. My friends that are tuners always recommend more fuel when modding an engine as a precaution to leaning out plus how many people do you know that are willing to spend the cash that it costs for a cam set and tuning rates to stop at only a camshaft upgrade? I don't know any, in fact the guys I know will put the cam in and go up from there.

Chris

PhilStubbs

Sounds like you do a lot of reading and not much tuning. I have tried to run stock injectors in very low boost setups. The flow just isn't there. I have been tuning cars for a solid 8 years. Things that shouldn't work do from time to time. Just cause it worked on some dudes car that is a friend of a friend of your sisters boyfriends cousin doesn't mean it should be considered a path to follow when building a car. You are correct that someone, somewhere has bumped fuel pressure to compensate for mods. But I'm trying to point him in the RIGHT direction. Not some backwoods duct tape band-aid method.

Blindly quoting Jeff Evans further proves my point that you don't understand fueling needs in relation to horsepower and torque. He is correct that 240's can support 180whp. I have done it myself. Horsepower is a made up number that is found by combining torque and engine rpm. So, a b16 making 180hp at 9k rpm needs much different fueling than a b20 making 180whp at 7k rpm. To make more horsepower at the same rpm you must increase torque. Increasing torque requires more fuel. Anyone adding power to a b20 connected to an automatic transmission will be increasing torque to get their numbers since the auto crv shifts before 7k.

EsotericImage

iTrader: (8)

All im saying is a small cam profile bump. Your acting like the guy has a high lift cam street machine.

Your really over playing it as its relatively simple. Even the larger 99-01 cam will be fine on a stock ecu. So adding a slightly larger cam with a tad more fuel pressure will be perfectly fine.

Sure everyone should tune for cams. But cost of new cams, swapping to OBD1, cost of new ECU, harness plus tuning software, the actual tune, just for a 15-20 hp/tq gain..

Im quite aware of the mythical horsepower number. but in the particular case, Im going to have to agree to disagree. Its a simple mod that alot of people do. Not some cousins roomates sister's boyfriend, but most B20 swapped people.

PhilStubbs

It way "work" but it's not correct. The same way a stock p28 will run a b18c5. It works, but it's not right. It's an exaggeration of a comparison but makes the point.

Bumps in torque through the rpm range can make an engine feel like your change has made more power, when in fact you have hurt power.