88_hatch_ls

I've searched threw the history and cant seem to find a solution to my specific overheating issue. The motor, built lsv turbo. Ok so I just got done building the motor and swapping it in my wagon, and it has brand new oem type r water pump, oem b16 head gasket, now the block has stock sleeves and we used liquid aluminum for the "block guard" I guess you could call it. Drilled all the proper holes matching the head gasket for coolant. The car starts overheating about 5 min into driving from sitting overnight. I pull over, let it cool down, and then add coolant, let it run with the cap off to try and get out air bubbles and finally top it off and go to drive again and does the same thing. So I go ahead and take out the thermostat for a quick fix thinking that would solve the problem and take off and a few min later it starts it again. Both hoses are hot, the bottom more than the top but about the same. The bottom hose is brand new. There is no oil in the coolant, nor white smoke from the exhaust or any smoke at all so that's a good thing! But I can not for the life of me figure out why in about 2-3 min time (if that) it starts overheating and overheating BAD! I'm driving easy (still breaking it in) so I'm not boosting and it just wont stop overheating! There are no know leaks either. I'm using a Fluidyne half size rad and the only thing I can think to do now is to take out the rad and flush it and make sure there is no clogs. Oh and also the fan works too. So if you have made it through my novel and have any idea what could be wrong PLEASE post something!

Annihilator

Have you attempted a compression test yet? It sounds like you may have some compression leaking into the cooling jackets...it's not easy to overheat in that short of a time frame. Though I do say that would normally cause some white smoke in the exhaust...it's just hard to imagine the engine overheating that quickly unless you had no water pump activity at all.

peaceable

iTrader: (1)

Process of elimination, with easiest things first. With the t-stat out, verify by doing a flush that you're getting correct engine coolant circulation. If yes, verify rad circulation/flow. It cooling system is flowing correctly without obstruction and isn't cooling, than you're getting induced heat at some other source.

Powerline_Mario

Either bad head gasket or t stat is bad try those out.. Also if you can get your hands on a leak down tester try that!

88_hatch_ls

Im goin to try everything you guys mentioned and get back to you. I just dont see how it could be the head gasket if there is no other signs of it being bad ( smoke, oil in coolant, coolant in oil) but hey I could be wrong but i will do a comp test and or leak down test as well

jdmjunkieXL

U made your own block guard????

88_hatch_ls

have you never heard of liquid aluminuming your block? Ya thats basically what it is. It works pretty well.

jdmjunkieXL

U have any pics??

88_hatch_ls

I dont have any pics of my specific block but here's a link on a diy one. on mine we actually used a torque plate after we poured it, so it was like the head was on while it dried.http://hondaswap.com/general-tech-ar...filling-62903/

jdmjunkieXL

Thats some ghetto rig **** right there that probaly is your overheating problems u should of just bout a regular block guard

88_hatch_ls

The block guard can distort the cylinders if not done properly,you don't have to worry about that using Devcon. This method I believe is a better way to go than a block guard, and it fills all the spaces that the block guard doesn't. I don't see how that is ghetto rigging at all. I've heard of people doing it and running a lot of boost 25+ psi and have no problems at all. If anything I think this is actually a very smart way to do a block guard. But to each his own.

jdmjunkieXL

Good luck fixing your overheating problems

88_hatch_ls

I took the top hose off the rad, and blew into the rad and water went through the entire system and back out of the top hose that was unplugged just fine. So there are no restrictions. The water flowed through without any problems and it didnt feel clogged or anything.

peaceable

iTrader: (1)

Next step is the engine. If that's OK (recheck the water pump) assuming you checked it when doing the initial build. If you're running an off-engine racing pump it'll need to be checked independently as well. If all of that pans-out (pardon the gold miner term) than your issue is an acquisition of heat issue as-opposed-to a dissipation of heat issue. What are the places where you can be gaining more heat? Head gasket, cracked water jacket, maybe something went unpredictably wrong in the guard pour ...?

88_hatch_ls

Yes the water pump was a brand new oem type r pump but I still checked for play before I used it. Something in the pour could have gone wrong I just want to exhaust all other options before I get to that point. Don't want to have to tare it apart if I don't need to. I've thought about the head lifting but I'm not boosting and I am also using arp head studs.