B2FiNiTY

iTrader: (2)

How does this happen? How do I fix it?

Malgerus

The timing belt tensioner may have loosened off and slipped a little bit. FIX THIS ASAP, as it a loose belt can lead to bent valves from piston to valve contact. I would reccomend getting a manual to double check everything I'm going to tell you, but basically you put the engine to TDC for piston 1. Then loosen the tensioner and slide the belt off. Line up the marks on the cam gear with the marks on the cylinder head perfectly and put the cam gear to where it should be. Slide the timing belt back on, spin the engine a bit to tighten up the tension, then tighten the tensioner tight so that it doesn't slip again.

I think I mentioned everything, it's been a while since i've done this.

Spaceballsthelunchbox

It's happening either because your belt is old and is stretching or you are not
putting enough tension on the belt.
I have ran into B16's that the spring on the tensioner pulley has gone soft and won't put tension the way the factory says you should do it.
I use a wood dowell (broom stick) that I cut to about 2 feet. I then use a floor jack and very gently using the dowell under the tensioner pulley, I put the right amount of tension.

Malgerus

Yes, I forgot to mention that you should replace the belt and check to see if the tensioner is doing it's job. Thanks Spaceballs

slowpokesi

loosen the tensioner, and slide the belt off the cam gears and then put it on the way it is suppose to be,


sometimes its not that easy and you will actually have to take teh sheilds off, and crank pulley and light it all up again.

B2FiNiTY

iTrader: (2)

I bought the car like this and I checked the belt. Looks pretty healthy. I guess it is the tensioner then. Weekend time.

nuc79

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Mr. S &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">The timing belt tensioner may have loosened off and slipped a little bit. FIX THIS ASAP, as it a loose belt can lead to bent valves from piston to valve contact. I would reccomend getting a manual to double check everything I'm going to tell you, but basically you put the engine to TDC for piston 1. Then loosen the tensioner and slide the belt off. Line up the marks on the cam gear with the marks on the cylinder head perfectly and put the cam gear to where it should be. Slide the timing belt back on, spin the engine a bit to tighten up the tension, then tighten the tensioner tight so that it doesn't slip again.

I think I mentioned everything, it's been a while since i've done this.</TD></TR></TABLE>

That write-up is exact as the factory service manual. Just pay attention and make sure to spin the crank pulley COUNTERCLOCKWISE to CREATE tension. If you accidently go the other way, it cleates slack, and the belt will slip 10 teeth instead of one when you start it. I know this because I did it this past weekend. Luckily there was no damage to the engine.

B2FiNiTY

iTrader: (2)

I've been driving for about 2000 miles with the belt like this.

When I inspected it, it seemed tight on there. So will any harm be done?

B2FiNiTY

iTrader: (2)

What does the tensioner look like?

nuc79

the tensioner is under the plastic timing belt cover on the side of the engine. the only way to see it is to remove all the v-belts, take the crank pulley off, and remove the plastic cover. Luckily, you don't need to see it to adjust the tension.

The tensioner pulley hold-down bolt is hidden behind a black plug in the plastic cover, just below the motor mount. It's 14mm, and recessed in the plastic cover. use a 3/8 ratchet and a short socket to get at it. Loosen it half a turn, set the belt tension by rotating the crank pulley CCW, then tighten it up. Oh yeah, and do this after you fix the slipped tooth.

B2FiNiTY

iTrader: (2)

How long do you think it will take for someone that has never done this before?

I've got everything ready. Any special tools?

nuc79

Are you changing the belt, or just repositioning the belt and adjusting the tension? If you're just fixing the slipped tooth and tightening the belt, I'd say 30-45 minutes

B2FiNiTY

iTrader: (2)

How does the procedure differ? Can you help me out please? I plan to do it tommorow.

I have a brand new belt but the belt on the car right now is in good condition. Probably no more than 15k miles on it.

Tyson

replacing the belt and/or replacing the tensioner REQUIRES the crank pulley to come off, which is very unsettling to do if you havent done it before because its one of the hardest bolt/nut to take off the car. the reason you have to take the crank pulley off is because the lower plastic belt cover is sandwiched by the pulley.

just retightening the tensioner is easy. the adjustment bolt is accessible without taking the lower plastic off.

it is suggested that you change the timing belt if you just bought the car and dont know if its ever been changed before, just because if it breaks, it will damage your valves. although ive heard of belts snapping and it not damaging the head at all, but its just a gamble of where the valves are positioned when it breaks i suppose. should be changed after 90k miles.

find instructions on how to tighten or replace the belt using the helms available online as well.
http://www.binghamtonlife.com/...t.htm

B2FiNiTY

iTrader: (2)

The belt has been changed before and still looks to be in good condition.

tpr

The condition of the belt cannot be judged visually without removing the belt. If it were my car and I did not know for sure the history of the timing belt/water pump replacement I would replace both while I was in there anyway. I also make it a habit to replace the front main seal too. Yes this adds about $40-50 (water pump and seal) to the price. But you really want to be sure of both water flow and timing belt, as if either fails its going to cost an order of magnitude more to fix the damage that will occur ($450-$550) if you have a shop do the work. Don't risk it, do it right the first time.