i just rebuildt my head on my 90 hf. i've been having trouble starting it after installing everything. now i just realixe that my cam+crank gear+pulley aren't aligned with their marks. does anyone have any tips or suggestions? my chiltons isn't good enough. i'm basically going back and forth with the tensioner and belt removal. never messed with this before. thanks alot for any replies.
Just make sure your cam gear is with the mark that says "up" is pointing up.
And on your timing belt cover you will see some marks, make sure those match up with your crank pulley. Motor has to be Top dead center
when u put it on , set the cam gear so that up mark is up and the little slash mark that is slanted on the left bottom of the cam gear lines up with the arrow mark on the plastic timing cover right under it. then set the crank pulley to TDC which is the farthest right mark . there should be ( 111 1 ) somethin like that on the pulley. set it to the one that is by itself and line it with the pointer on the plastic timng cover at the pulley.. make sure to look straight down at it when u do this. then place the belt on make sure the right side of the belt has decent tension and the slack is on the left side, then very gently turn the crank pulley about 2-3 teeth to the right to pull any extra slack. then tighten the tensioner pulley right there and rotate it over by hand one full rotation and see if its good.
10 sec stock block SOHC crx (1800lbs) all built tuned and painted by me.... daily driven... traded for a 93 turbo coupe with back seats for the baby...
when u put it on , set the cam gear so that up mark is up and the little slash mark that is slanted on the left bottom of the cam gear lines up with the arrow mark on the plastic timing cover right under it.
that is how you align the cam timing marks for the Si engine D16A6 only - for the HF and the DX engines, you align the other 2 marks, which are at 3 o'clock and 9 o'clock, with the top surface of the head - there should be no slack on the side of the belt that is closest to the radiator
I think I know what you're talking about. All the posters above have the correct procedure but I've done it that way and noticed it off a tooth before. What I did was turned the crank juat a little bit clockwise so that when the belt caught and you put tension on it, it would make up for the extra slack. Play with it and you'll get it, just don't try to set the marks for TDC by going clockwise after you get the belt on.
i did, but when i turn the crank pully counter clockwise to retighten the belt, it no longer lines up. plus, if it's a little off, would it cause my motor not to turn over?
That crank pulley should be on tight before installing the timing belt. Once its on slip on the belt and you turn the pully counterclock to alighn marks which is TDC
Use the tension to set proper tension
One tooth would cause your motor to run like **** if it even starts!
okay,yeah, im working on an hf. what was that thing about the other two marks? its actually three. just like this 111 1. i've been lining it up to the furthest right and keeping the slack towards the radiator.
I'm not even sure what you're talking about now LOL Here do this, pull the spark plug from the number one cylinder and then stick your dip stick in it. Turn the crank and you'll see it move up and down as it rotates. When it's at the peak of it's movement, that's TDC, and you can confirm this visually by looking at the mark on the pulley and seeing that it's aligned with the notches on the timing belt cover.
NOTE: If you have any valves open, they may get bent. If your head is already torqued down, remove the camshaft so that all the valves are closed first.
EDIT: Yes look at the picture above. You can see the first three marks on the pulley ahead of the notch on the timing belt cover.
EDIT2: I see what you mean, yeah, 3-9 o'clock on the cam gear, then the single notch on the main pulley, and you're set.
i've got my camshaft pulley lined up with the horizontal=head/valve cover line.
and i've got the crank pulley lined up to the last right line and aiming points. now i pulled the belt over the cam gear and left the slack on the right( not towards the radiator.) should i tighten the tensionor now or after i've rotated my crank pulley?
1. With belt on, place socket and ratchet on crank pulley and rotate crank until the mark on the crank pulley that is off to the right of the three marks together lines up with the mark on the timing cover. “UP” on cam gear should be up at top.
2. Remove the little rubber plug in the timing cover for access to the tensioner bolt.
3. Place socket and ratchet on tensioner bolt and loosen it (DO NOT REMOVE).
4. Take hold of belt just below cam gear on side toward firewall and pull up on the belt to get slack on that side.
5. While holding belt up, tighten the tensioner bolt.
6. Make sure crank pulley marks are still lined up.
7. Lift belt off cam gear and rotate cam gear, with box end wrench on cam gear attaching bolt, until the marks at 3 o’clock and 9 o’clock line up with top of head. Hold the cam gear in position with the wrench.
8. Place belt on cam gear with no slack on the side toward the radiator. Make sure marks on crank are still lined up.
9. Loosen the tensioner bolt so that tensioner removes the slack on the side toward firewall.
10. Rotate crank counterclockwise so that cam gear moves a couple of teeth and belt is tight on the side toward radiator.
11. Tighten the tensioner bolt.
12. Put plug back in cover.
thanks man. i think i've got it. hopeful it'll start up after this. i've checked the grounds and distributor is lined up to where it was before rebuilding the head. i need to hurry up and get this started so i can finish the body work. thanks everyone.
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