thatHEMIguy

Alright here is the issue. Im in the process of making my car obd0 to obd1. I just installed a working td44 dizzy and a chipped p28 (supposed to run like a p30). I have lsvtec and keeping my obd0 injectors on the injector resistor. I installed the ECU jumper, repined my dizzy plugs for obd1, and wired in everything minus the O2 sensor. I checked all the wiring going into the jumper to make sure everything gets jumped to the right pin at the p28. everything is where its supposed to be.

I go to crank it over and it will not fire off, not even a back fire. Checked spark, its good. Checked fuel, its getting to the injectors. I havent put a multi-meter to the injectors to see if theyre firing off yet (going to check that as soon as i get done writing this). When i check for engine codes, the check engine light stays solid which means its in limp mode correct? Since its in limp mode, it should still fire off just wont rev past 4k?

Just seeing if anyone has any input about this? Ive been running the car obd0 since april and its been fine so i know the injectors are in working order. before i go out to check the ohms, what should i be looking for on the injectors (2-3 ohms?) I also broke my damn phone so i cannot get ahold of my buddyto drive over so i can plug his ecu in place of mine.

thatHEMIguy

okay, so i took a test light to #1 injector. On the power side the test light comes on when i turn the keep to ON and the fuel pump primes then goes out when its done priming and flickers real quick when turning over and when i test the ground side, it turns off when i turn the key to ON and the fuel pump primes and come back on when its done priming, and when i turn the engine over the light goes out.

crx_si-r

if they check engine light is constantly on, then you have a code. what code are you getting? check that then let us know.

thatHEMIguy

in order for me to check it i have to connect the Service (A3 and D4) wires (either touch them together or have them on a toggle switch) well when i connect them the check engine light stays on, doesn't blink at all.

crx_si-r

there is a 2 wire connector on the passenger side kick panel. jump those wires and your check engine light will flash on the dash. from there you can find out what CEL you have.

thatHEMIguy

right. the two wires came with the jumper harness. One coming from D4 which is the SCS service check sensor and the one is A23 PG1 ground (power ground). And when i connect those the CEL is supposed to flash to tell me my code. When i connect those it stays solid. Unless its a different wire than A23... btw, these wires are coming OUT of the ecu side of the jumper harness

crx_si-r

if you have a solid light, when the wire is grounded, then chances are you have a bad chip or ecu.

thatHEMIguy

thats what i was thinking. but with me getting spark and the injectors getting a signal shouldnt it still fire off? or it doesnt matter since the chip and/or ecu is possibly bad?

crx_si-r

they get power but no actual signal to pulse them. the ecu tells the the injector when to pulse (grounds it out). so i would try a stock unchipped ecu (p28 or anything at this point) just to make sure its the ecu.

thatHEMIguy

yeah im trying to find someone that has one around here but since i broke my phone its hard as a beotch. but once i do get one to check out ill update this. thanks for the help!

EKwreckRLS

I am a noob and could be totally wrong but, if you have converted to OBD1 with a P28, you need to run OBD1 injectors with NO resistor box correct?

I have no factual information whatsoever but I don't think a resistor box will work with a P28.

crx_si-r

The useof a ressistor box is dependent on which injectors he uses:
Obd0 (low impedance) injectors use resistor box
Obd1 & obd2 (high impedance) injectors do not require a resistor box.

All the ecu does is send a signal to the injector (triggered ground signal) telling it to shoot fuel. That's the best way I can describe it.

dohc4life

solid cel means its your ecu, if you know the dizzy works then wouldnt you think that it would be the ecu?

thatHEMIguy

well i knew it was either the ecu or the injectors. because if a ecu is in limp mode it will throw a solid CEL but will still start but wont rev past 4k-ish. But if my chip inside the ecu took a dump then it wont fire my injectors and still throw a solid CEL. Thats why i asked on here to see if anyone else had any ideas on what to check or do.

thatHEMIguy

UPDATE
new ecu came in today. hooked it up and its still throwing a solid CEL and will still crank over but wont fire off.
I was told i could hook my obd0 pr3 back up but it will stay in limp mode. so i hooked it up, went to crank it and it would not light off, sounded like it was firing on the exhaust stroke because it was [puffing white smoke out of my throttle body. i swapped the plug wires around and it started up but wouldnt rev at all and sounded like it was firing on two cyls... i put the plug wires back to the right location (1 bottom left, 2 bottom right, 3 top left, 4 top right)

i checked to see if my dizzy could be 180 out. took it off, turned it 180.... it wont even go on that way, so put it back the right back and bolted it up. checked the code on the obd0 pr3 and its throwing a CPS (4) and vtec (24?) well i knew it would throw the vtec since i have that wired into the jumper harness.

i need to get this car running! someone give me some ideas

Ludster

Double check your distributor wiring.

thatHEMIguy

ive checked that about 10 times now making sure the wires are in the right location and they are making contact within the plug. im going to depin the female side of the dizzy plug and plug them straight into the dizzy tomorrow just to fully make sure im getting contact or not

dohc4life

switch the 2 white wires that are the same happens alot on mpfi swaps kinda weird my friend just had the same problem last week i couldnt get it to work but we found out it was just his dizzy, so we just switched everything back

thatHEMIguy

i had them in the right spot cause one white wire is bigger than the other.

well i depined the female dizzy plugs and put them directly into the dizzy. still nothing. i can smell fuel when i crank it over. i know im getting spark. i checked all the grounds; two on the valve cover are good, the thermostat ground is good. all the wires in the jumper harness are good. but when i looked at my dizzy it read td-81u... when i looked that up it says its an obd2 from a b18c. i thought that the obd1 and obd2 dizzy plugs were different?

thatHEMIguy

alright, another update.

I had a buddy come over today with his obd1 b16 93 coupe. i put my ECU into his and it ran fine. I checked his dizzy and he also had the td81-u with the obd2 plug on it. my td81-u has the obd1 plug set up on it... i went threw my whole wiring on the jumper harness and found 2 grounds that needs to be hooked up... hooked those up and it still throws a solid CEL and will not start... i do smell fuel when im cranking over. when i unhooked the Cyl. Position sensor ground wire on the dizzy and hooked it straigh up to a ground, it threw an TDC code (8 flashes)... i swapped the two blue/green & blue/yellow wires around and it gave me a solid CEL still... i then swapped em back and hooked everything up.

Why would it throw a solid CEL with all the ground hooked up and the jumper harness wiring is correct. The only wires i do not have hooked up are for the o2 sensor.

thatHEMIguy

anyone have any insight on this? ask me anything that would help figure this out!

crx_si-r

Have u tried using your buddies distributor on your car? Td-81 is obd2 so it might be safe to assume the wiring was done wrong when your dizzy was converted to obd1.

thatHEMIguy

i couldnt use his, he has the obd2 style (single plug with all 9 wires). That could possibly be the only thing left because when i unhooked the CYS sensor ground wire it threw a TDC code 8.

thatHEMIguy

i also forgot to mention that in the diagram i have to shoot voltage on the wires coming into the ecu, it saying all my injectors should show battery voltage with the key on and engine off.... im getting maybe 1 bon all 4

crx_si-r

Have u tries setting your distributor pins back to obd0 and buying an obd1 distributor jumper harness.