noboostedEGo

I bought my 91 sedan with a crank but no start condition. It supposedly died driving down the road and just lost power. Guy said he'd downshift/floor it to try to keep it going and rpm just died down. Accessories still work/light up. My friend said his old sedan (formerly mine) died in a manner that sounded exactly the same.

Car will crank but not start.

I'm curious because I've done a lot of reading and it seems that putting the key to the on position, I should see the CEL turn off after 2 seconds, and I should hear 3 main relay clicks.

My CEL stays on with key on, and I hear no clicks. But my ecu light doesn't flash any codes.


I tested the coil in the current dist, checked out fine. I was next going to check igniter but a friend let me toss in a different dist. (not guaranteed functional, but was never associated with an ignition problem on his car) No change.

I hear no fuel pump, and I'm going to be borrowing a friend's noid light to check injector firing.


I have to go to work now, but I'm going to check the main relay next.


Any ideas? Why will my CEL stay on but show me no codes? Does this sound like the main relay could be the culprit? The car will not start AT ALL. Sounds like both cases of the sedans dying came while cruising, not after being parked like many people associate with bad main relay.

Thanks, I know I still have more testing on my own to do, just looking for insight/similar experiences.

jlicrx

if CEL does not go off after 2 seconds, the ECU is most likely dead

noboostedEGo

Alright, on Sunday I shall be able to try out an ecu out of a 90 dx hatch. So I'll give that a go, and I'll report back on the results.

Thanks for the input!

jonessw20

when i bought my crx as a non running car there was a fuse blown under the dash that caused the check engine light to stay on with the key in the on position. cant say for sure what one it was but had something to do with the alt. or starter signal i think. just take an ohmmeter or continuity tester to all of the fuses and see what comes up. i also had a frozen fuel pump and thats why the car wasnt running. dont know if they have anything to do with eachother. i highly doubt it.

Hope this helps

noboostedEGo

Thanks! I'll check that out too...I actually remember reading about a separate instance in which someone mentioned having a problem with the alternator solenoid fuse. Definitely helps.

TJChad

Usually there needs to be action done to put a car into "diagnostic mode" where it will tell you the codes. The CEL will come on for 2-5 secs. and then go off as a bulb check. If it continues on then your ECU DOES have codes. Do some research to find how to put your car into diagnostic mode and you can actually get the CEL to blink you the codes. Sometimes its cycling the key a certain way and sometimes you just need to jumper a connector.

noboostedEGo

Well, I'm used to EG's where the green service connector needs to be jumped, but it seems that on obd0 hondas the ECU flashes the codes automatically because it has a little light on it.

However, I found a little service connector-looking thing anyways (it was blue and located above and to the right of the ecu) and tried jumping it because at first I thought I had to. And when I did that there were still no codes blinking.


Tomorrow I'll hopefully be getting my hands on a different ECU to try out, and I'll also check out the alternator solenoid fuse, prob some other fuses, and if still nothing I'll pop the main relay out.

Thanks for the continued input though!

jonessw20

another possibility could be the ignition switch. i remember that being something i was told to look at when my check engine light stayed on. i guess the solder gets shitty on it kinda like the main relay. Also im pretty sure all you need to do to check codes is put the key to on and look at the blinking light on the ecu.

noboostedEGo

UPDATE! It LIVES!!!

Here's what happened.

I checked the alternator solenoid fuse (under dash, fuse #14, 10 amp) and sure enough, it was blown.

So I replaced it, turned the key on, no change at all...Checked the fuse again, and the new one was instantly blown.

Then, I noticed that the former owner had ghetto-wired in some ricer fog lights, and there were multiple exposed connections. Tore all of that garbage out, and threw in another fuse.

Finally, I could hear the fuel pump, and some main relay clicks, and I finally had a code: code 10, IAT.

Turned the key off. About to get my car jumped to try and start it, and the fuse blew AGAIN. So we took out the alternator to have it checked; took it to autozone, and it checked out OK.


Then...I searched for a picture of the hazard fuse location, just to be certain I was pulling the correct fuse to reset the ecu. I found the picture in THIS THREAD:

https://honda-tech.com/forums/showth...ht=hazard+fuse
The picture is in post #3.

I noticed that where the picture shows the fuse for "Stop, Horn"? (Norm? NORN??? lol I can't quite tell what it's supposed to say) where it lists a 15A fuse, in my car there was a 20A fuse.

I'm not certain if that was the direct culprit, but I taped up a couple of the loose wires left from the fog light job, threw in a 15A fuse...

AND VOILA!!! The alternator solenoid fuse pops no more, and the car started and ran!



I still have a code 10, IAT, and the idle seems affected somewhat, but I don't mind delving into that matter. If anyone has input on it though (like specified resistance for the IAT sensor, etc.) please interject! Also, I have to check out the rad fan cause I don't think it came on at all and the temp gauge started to climb. No biggie!


Anyways, thanks for all the help guys! I'm super stoked cause I got this 5sp 91 sedan not running for $200!!! And now it runs with a parts cost of a few dollars for some fuses! F*** yeah!!!

(I know it's a long-winded post, but hopefully the intricate details will help somebody out someday)

Laserjock

Thanks for updating your thread. Some just let the thread die without posting the solution and everyone is left scratching their heads.

I bought a 90 Si for $600 that start but wouldn't idle - previous owner's "friend" changed the timing belt but was 2 teeth off

Good diagnostics bro

noboostedEGo

Thanks!

88wago

this happen on my wagon like three days ago did you check your number 14 fuse under the dash ??????

88wago

sorry didnt read everything just saying what happen to me !!!!!!!!!!

noboostedEGo

lol you've gotta be kidding me dude...

88wago

my car sat for a couple days cuz we could not figure it out the fuse did not even look bad

noboostedEGo

you should just read a few posts up man...i really don't think it'll take you that long, it's a short thread

teg your it

so you removed some wires and popped in a 15A fuse and it starts? my accord is doing the same crap. the CEL stays on forever. changed ECU, ignitor, rotor, coil, plugs/wires looked okay, clean cap, nothing.