cottagecreep

Ok, I know how to read codes etc. (this is for a friends rex, he's at work right now and needs help). He threw 9 short flashes, and 20 short flashes, this repeated itself. It is a 89 CRX si computer in a 90 si. Now I thought for 20, it would have been two longs, what the hell is this? He doesn't have another computer available to try. When it happend, he just briefley accelerated in second, going around a car in a parking garage.

Here is the code list, please tell me what these codes could mean for him, and what the hell is up with the 20 flash?

1 O2A - Oxygen sensor #1
2 O2B - Oxygen sensor #2
3 MAP - manifold absolute pressure sensor
4 CKP - crank position sensor
5 MAP - manifold absolute pressure sensor
6 ECT - water temperature sensor
7 TPS - throttle position sensor
8 TDC - top dead centre sensor
9 CYP - cylinder sensor
10 IAT - intake air temperature sensor
12 EGR - exhaust gas recirculation lift valve
13 BARO - atmospheric pressure sensor
14 IAC (EACV) - idle air control valve
15 Ignition output signal
16 Fuel injectors
17 VSS - speed sensor
19 Automatic transmission lockup control valve
20 Electrical load detector
21 VTEC spool solenoid valve
22 VTEC pressure valve
23 Knock sensor
30 Automatic transmission A signal
31 Automatic transmission B signal
41 Primary oxygen sensor heater
43 Fuel supply system
45 Fuel system too rich or lean
48 LAF - lean air fuel sensor
54 CKF - crank fluctuation sensor
58 TDC sensor #2
61 Primary oxygen sensor
63 Secondary oxygen sensor
65 Secondary oxygen sensor heater

one slow d16

check engine light on?

RCautoworks

Code 9 - No. 1 Cylinder Position Sensor

It's the third sensor in the dist., and it detects the position of the No. 1 Cylinder, as the base for the Sequential Injection. It can also be located on the camshaft of DOHC engines.

CYP sensor is mounted on the exhaust cam on the ZC.

If the dist. base bearing starts failing, it will heat the sensor(s) up, destroying the magnetism thus causing a code(s). It will lose 10% of it's strenght, each time it is heated up to 170 degrees plus.

In most cases, replacing the distributor is the only alternative. Especially if the bearing has failed.
Honda does don't stock the bearing by itself, but other after-market compaines are said to have one.

If you have problems starting the engine, or drivability after the install check your cam aligment. The seizing bearing might have caused it to jump a tooth/notch or two. From the extra drag due to the bearing failing.

Code 20 - Electric Load Detector

First make sure you have a good battery....


Open the Main Fuse box lid (Right side shock tower).
Disconnect the 3 point connector, from the ELD unit. (Follow the harraness that runs through the box).
With the ignition switch ON, there should be battery voltage between the BLK/YEL(+) and BLK(-) terminals.

If there is no voltage, check for:

Blown No. 14 (10A) fuse in the dash fuse box.
An open in the BLK/YEL(+) wire between the dash fuse box and the main fuse box.
Pour ground (G201)
If there is voltage then goto the next step.....

Check for voltage between the GRN/RED terminal and body ground with the ignition switch ON. There should
be approximately 5V.

If the voltage(5V) is not specified, check the alternator control system.
If the voltage is as specified then goto next step.....

Connect the 3 - Point Connector to the ELD unit.

Check for volatage between the GRN/RED terminal and body ground, with the ignition switch ON and turn on the
headlight low beam's.

There should be approximately 2V.

If the voltage(2V) is not specified, replace the main fuse box (ELD unit is not available separately)
If the voltage is as specified above, ELD unit is OK.

JoshDM

or just run some good grounds

Perfectionist

And you needed to quote the entire previous post to say that?