Rob.

Hi guys, Im thinking of buying all the rubber bushings to replace on my 90 CRX suspension.
They have never been replaced and are almost 23 years old !!

I already have the Polyurethane sway bar bushings and links. So those will stay.
I'll also be replacing the front upper control arms, instead of just the bushings.
Of course, I'll be getting the Honda OEM rubber bushings.

Here's my list: Let me know if there anything missing:


- Engine Mounts (4)
- Front Upper Control arms (2)
- Front Lower Control Arm bushings (2)
- Front Shock Absorber bushings (2)
- Rear Trailing arm bushings (2)
- Rear Lower control arm bushings (4)
- Rear Shock Absorber bushings (2)
- Rear Compensator arm (2)
- Outer tie rod ends (2)
- Inner tie rods (2)
- Tie rod dust seal boots (2)
- Front Radius rod bushings (energy Polyurethane - prevents wheel hop)

CrxB16a2

I have all poly bushings. And are very nice. But instead of the rear compentator arm bushings. Buy the rear adjustable toe arms. Easiers to do alighnments. Ge new bolts to. And lots of antisieze

TeG cRaZy

I replaced my bushings with the energy suspension ones making it a stiffer ride. You are going to need a torch, hammer and a press to press out the bushings. Its quite the project.

TeG cRaZy

Steering rack bushings.

alexdog69

I replaced all my bushings with Mugen. I would recommend that consider Mugen (KingMotorSports.com) or HardRace.com over OEM. But they are all going to work really well.

The OEM ball joints and tie-rods are nice, but I prefer the Moog brand replacements. Their tie rods have grease nipples.

Polyurethane has no place in a torsional bushing application. The OEM bushings are press fit and tightened at ride-height for a reason. The urethane spins around in there and turns to **** if its used "in real life" for awhile. Delrin is OK. Bearings have their place. Urethane is best used in compression applications (sway bar end links, steering rack mounts, motor mount "inserts", radius rods <-- great here). The urethane boots that they sell for tie rods/etc also suck, they don't have any snap ring in them and they don't really seal properly.

What you need is a press, preferably a 20T or higher, and the appropriate sized units (i.e.*sockets of various sizes) to press the bushings in it and out. It's actually not that hard.

Hitting them with a hammer, and torching them out is not necessary. I don't know why everyone does that. Applying heat to suspension components can also cause them to fatigue and fail later. I've seen old american muscle cars have their front wishbone arms crack because of this technique and have a wheel fly off at speed. It is the preferred method of those who have necks in the beginning of the visible color spectrum.

You can use this press from Harbor Freight....
http://www.harborfreight.com/20-ton-...ess-37999.html

And a bunch of sockets...

FakeJDMEF8

Do new wheel bearings and studs while it's all apart....


Have fun with it, and take it slow and steady. It does take time, but if well worth it when finished....

Rob.

wheel bearing were done last year.

I wont be doing this job.. its insane.

TeG cRaZy

If you want to stiffen up your engine mounts, buy some polyurethane filler from Hoe Depot and squeeze it in between the gaps in your engine mounts.

Mr.Cheezil

sway bar end links and sway bar stabilizer bushings(if thats what they are called).

Rob.

Replaced already in 1998 when the previous owner installed Neuspeed sway bars. He installed red Poly bushings there.

Mr.Cheezil

new ball joints wouldn't hurt.

XxDARKCYDExX

I just purchased some prothane front lower control arm bushing for my daily driver (95 DB7) as mine are shot to hell, would it be easier and cheaper just to remove the front LCA and take it to a shop to press out the old bushings and have em press in the new ones?