Low RPM/idle issue
#26
Re: Low RPM/idle issue
If it's warm it needs less fuel, if you're dumping too much fuel(which a car will to compensate for a faulty sensor because its safer will make it run rich and hurt performance).
How is your heat? Are you overheating at all? After changine the sensor you will loose coolant so follow the procedure I mentioned to get rid of air bubbles.
Oh yea, sometimes it;s lame to have things coincide by coincidence but your header swap could just be that. And you could need a tuneup or something.
How is your heat? Are you overheating at all? After changine the sensor you will loose coolant so follow the procedure I mentioned to get rid of air bubbles.
Oh yea, sometimes it;s lame to have things coincide by coincidence but your header swap could just be that. And you could need a tuneup or something.
#27
Re: Low RPM/idle issue
If it's warm it needs less fuel, if you're dumping too much fuel(which a car will to compensate for a faulty sensor because its safer will make it run rich and hurt performance).
How is your heat? Are you overheating at all? After changine the sensor you will loose coolant so follow the procedure I mentioned to get rid of air bubbles.
Oh yea, sometimes it;s lame to have things coincide by coincidence but your header swap could just be that. And you could need a tuneup or something.
How is your heat? Are you overheating at all? After changine the sensor you will loose coolant so follow the procedure I mentioned to get rid of air bubbles.
Oh yea, sometimes it;s lame to have things coincide by coincidence but your header swap could just be that. And you could need a tuneup or something.
#28
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Re: Low RPM/idle issue
Oh yeah coincidences suck. I had a Dodge Neon that blew a coolant hose and as soon as it started to overheat shut off and wouldn't crank again. Thought it blew a head gasket or worse. Turns out the EGR valve decided to stick open at the same damn time the hose blew.
#29
Re: Low RPM/idle issue
My coolant temp sender decided to stop working when I changed a radiator hose.
I thought I messed something up.
What's worse is I bought one at kragen and it also didn't work. It wasn't until I pulled an oem one at the junkyard that it worked.
You can imagine after using the kragen one I thought it was something else still.
So go oem for some things
How is the health of the engine overall?
The distributor good and the valves properly adjusted?
No vacuum leaks and are all the grounds properly connected? There is an imortant one on the thermostat
I thought I messed something up.
What's worse is I bought one at kragen and it also didn't work. It wasn't until I pulled an oem one at the junkyard that it worked.
You can imagine after using the kragen one I thought it was something else still.
So go oem for some things
How is the health of the engine overall?
The distributor good and the valves properly adjusted?
No vacuum leaks and are all the grounds properly connected? There is an imortant one on the thermostat
#30
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Re: Low RPM/idle issue
I'm currently dealing with a coincidence on this car now anyways since I replaced cap rotor and wires. It developed a miss and stutter right after. So I turned around and bought oem cap and rotor. Wires are ngk blues. Still didn't fix it so something else decided to go out apparently at the same time. Still haven't found it.
#31
Re: Low RPM/idle issue
My coolant temp sender decided to stop working when I changed a radiator hose.
I thought I messed something up.
What's worse is I bought one at kragen and it also didn't work. It wasn't until I pulled an oem one at the junkyard that it worked.
You can imagine after using the kragen one I thought it was something else still.
So go oem for some things
How is the health of the engine overall?
The distributor good and the valves properly adjusted?
No vacuum leaks and are all the grounds properly connected? There is an imortant one on the thermostat
I thought I messed something up.
What's worse is I bought one at kragen and it also didn't work. It wasn't until I pulled an oem one at the junkyard that it worked.
You can imagine after using the kragen one I thought it was something else still.
So go oem for some things
How is the health of the engine overall?
The distributor good and the valves properly adjusted?
No vacuum leaks and are all the grounds properly connected? There is an imortant one on the thermostat
#32
Re: Low RPM/idle issue
And its gunna have to sit for a bit till i figure these issues out...Means i have to drive my SRT-10 Ram everywhere with its 12 MPG....*cries silently*
#33
Re: Low RPM/idle issue
as an update, i have replaced the coolant temp sensor. I drove the car till it warmed up and the issue is still there. Any other suggestions before i go about putting my stock manifold back on so the o2 sensor is in it original spot?
Last edited by spartan_chaz; 03-27-2015 at 07:48 AM.
#35
Re: Low RPM/idle issue
#38
#39
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Re: Low RPM/idle issue
Sounds like a bad igniter to me. I've had this happen to me several times with a few different ef's. Aftermarket distributor I'm assuming?
#40
#42
Re: Low RPM/idle issue
yeah...i wasnt able to look at them the other night but tonight im taking the car to a buddies are we are going to go at figuring out whats going on together tonight. Two eyes are better than one as they say.
#44
Re: Low RPM/idle issue
My only issue is dont want to just keep throwing parts at it. Rather figure out what then replace the part causing it. Today driving it to my buddies house it seems to have gotten a little worse. I dropped it off with him and he is going to mess woth it during the day to diagnose it. Im too frustrated with it so time to get a fresh pair of hands and eyes on it. Guess its back to driving the gas guzzling truck till its fixed...
#45
Re: Low RPM/idle issue
And is my assumption correct in thinkng when you ignitor you mean the ignition coil that is on the distributor? Or is it another part? If its another part then where is it located and is there a way to check if its bad before i buy a new one?
#46
Re: Low RPM/idle issue
The ignitor is located inside the distributor. It's like a small chip sized thing.
Usually the dizzy goes bad with it, or soon after.
The ignitor alone is pricey, better to get a whole distributor, with new with cap and rotor included for only a few bucks more.
Usually the dizzy goes bad with it, or soon after.
The ignitor alone is pricey, better to get a whole distributor, with new with cap and rotor included for only a few bucks more.