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Old 07-17-2007, 07:07 PM   #1
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Default How-To: Install New Rear Upper Control Arms

<FONT SIZE="3">How-To: Install New Rear Upper Control Arms</FONT>

There are two reasons you would want to replace your old turn of the Cold War rear upper control arms. One being that you have realized that your bushings are shot to hell and the second you being you need control of camber in the rear. The price for a new OEM arm is $41.43 for the right and 41.37$ for the left; if you want you can purchase the bushings individually and you save $6 but you still have to do the press work yourself.

<FONT SIZE="2">Step 1 - Locate Car</FONT>
Click the image to open in full size.

<FONT SIZE="2">Step 2 - Locate Replacement Arms</FONT>
Click the image to open in full size.

<FONT SIZE="2">Step 3 - Remove Wheel</FONT>
Click the image to open in full size.

<FONT SIZE="2">Step 4 - Remove Old UCA</FONT>
Click the image to open in full size.

You have 3x14mm bolts, and if you have a stiff suspension setup you will find it easier to remove the two bolts attached to the chassis first and then the one on the trailing arm. This is what it looks like when removed, don't forget to clean the threads!

Click the image to open in full size.

Old UCA vs New UCA
Click the image to open in full size.

<FONT SIZE="2">Step 5 - Install New UCA</FONT>
Click the image to open in full size.

With the suspension in its current state, the bolt holes don't match up for beans. Either you can thread the chassis and deal with lining up the trailing arm or you can do it the other way around. I'd personally deal with the chassis as the trailing arm is the dynamic piece. Grab a spare jack and place it securely under your LCA and start compressing the suspension.

Click the image to open in full size.

Much better now.
Click the image to open in full size.

Torque the chassis bolts to 29lb-ft and the trailing arm bolt to 40lb-ft. A little anti-sieze doesn't hurt.
Click the image to open in full size.


<FONT SIZE="2">Other information</FONT>
Time to completion - 15 minutes per side
Upper Left Rear Arm Part # - 52400-SR3-000
Upper Right Rear Arm Part # - 52390-SR0-A00
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Old 07-17-2007, 07:29 PM   #2
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Cool
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Old 07-17-2007, 07:31 PM   #3
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nice job does it mak any different after u replace new one ?
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Old 07-17-2007, 07:33 PM   #4
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Default Re: (hai_tech)

Quote:
Originally Posted by hai_tech
nice job does it mak any different after u replace new one ?
In my case, new bushing &gt;&gt;&gt; Corroded worn dead 18 year bushing. Would you rather have a nice tight suspension or loose as the football groupie suspension when you are driving about?
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Old 07-17-2007, 09:31 PM   #5
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makes everything else look bad. LOL!
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Old 07-17-2007, 10:20 PM   #6
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Default

this is probably the most in depth rear upper control arm How-To ever. Click the image to open in full size. Click the image to open in full size.
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Old 07-17-2007, 10:59 PM   #7
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hey, great write-up but step #1 is a little confusing
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Old 07-18-2007, 04:55 AM   #8
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Default Re: (jpciii)

^^haha
nice writeup. Click the image to open in full size.
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Old 07-18-2007, 05:46 AM   #9
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Default Re: (Disco Monkey)

How much did they run you? (too lazy to go search magestic Click the image to open in full size. )
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Old 07-18-2007, 06:33 AM   #10
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Default Re: (Smokinsax)

Quote:
Originally Posted by Smokinsax
this is probably the most in depth rear upper control arm How-To ever. Click the image to open in full size. Click the image to open in full size.
Someone somewhere is going to ask how to do it, wait till I do my How-To: Mad JDM Oil Change.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Boosted Chemist
How much did they run you? (too lazy to go search magestic )
52390-SR0-A00 41.43
52400-SR3-000 41.37
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Old 07-18-2007, 08:10 AM   #11
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That sedan looks nice. Any other shots?
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Old 07-18-2007, 08:16 AM   #12
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Don't forget to get the alignment done afterwards! Also, why go for OEM replacement, when you can get adjustables to dial the camber in to where you want it?
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Old 07-18-2007, 10:17 AM   #13
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Default Re: (~sp33~)

Quote:
Originally Posted by ~sp33~
That sedan looks nice. Any other shots?
Thanks, I'll dig around and see what I can find. The last two HT meets I've gone to the dozens of photographers have flat out refused to take pictures of my car. Maybe it's a good thing, or maybe they just don't like the not JDM flavor to it?
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Don't forget to get the alignment done afterwards! Also, why go for OEM replacement, when you can get adjustables to dial the camber in to where you want it?
I was thinking about that, as the SPC Units are only $53 with free shipping from Nopi.com

Click the image to open in full size.

Currently I'm at -1.0 camber and I don't see it increasing anytime soon, and I personally would just use the washers if any issues arise in the future unless I have a need for a further range of adjustment. I will be getting an alignment hopefully tomorrow if all goes as planned with installing my new steering rack and my front cross member.
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