HMT doing HM-ITB's lots of pics.. 56k go away..
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HMT doing HM-ITB's lots of pics.. 56k go away..
Well I posted this in the "ALL MOTOR" forum, and had a pretty good response, I know lots of guys only read one forum, so I thought I may post that in here to see whatcha guys think. I've done lots of "homemadeturbo" setups throughout the years, and wanted to try something different, so.....
here we go!
Starting off with a set of 2001 Suzuki GSX-R Throttle bodies. I picked up this set on ebay for very cheap! 50 bucks. The spacing looked about right, I think it was about 80mm, perfect for alignment on the B-series head.
Measureing at 42mm @ the butterflys and tapers to a 45mm (which also had secondary butterflys that were taken out).
The stock manifold was chopped off slightly after the fuel rail mounts, I then had 1 1/2 inch long aluminum runners welded on (1.75od) After the welded I had the manifold surfaced on both sides, and threw a chanfer on the lips of each runner. (75 dollars weld/machine work)
Here are the cheap *** velocity stacks I got on ebay, they were 35 bucks. used some small machine screws to fasten them down. Looks kinda cheezy, but they do the job.
These are the silicone couplers that attach the Throttle bodies to the intake manifold. Sounds kinda half *** huh? well the factory Suzuki ITB's are this way, and most other bikes too! And after attaching them they were very sturdy. I used Napa bulk Silicone hose, with some hose clamps.
(20 bucks from Napa)
The Cover shield that hides the linkage and other stuff, just cosmetic.
The factory ITB Fuel injector bungs were JB welded shut, except for the last one which has my brake booster port coming out. You can also see the map sensor signal lines, each port all T's into one and goes to the map sensor.
Thought it looked long? so did I, but after measureing up with the stock manifold, I felt a bit better, I thought for sure the stacks would be touching the firewall, but its actually just a bit shorter than the stock manifold.
The TPS situation, well the Suzuki tps had a way differant range than the stock honda one, I tried to make it work, but it just wasnt happening, So the stock honda one had to be modified to fit somehow.
First I made a baseplate with a hole saw and some scrap aluminum. This is on the backside of the shaft (driverside)
The Brass fitting, was bored out to be a custom bushing for the shaft.
The Shaft is actually a honda throttle body shaft cut down about 1/4
Now for mounting, I used a piece of PVC pipe to space out the tps, so it could mount solid.
Hoggered out the holes on the base plate a bit, so I could get a good amount of adjustment.
Used some extra long machine screws to mount it down
All mounted down, Its very secure and pretty easy to adjust.
Now setting the TPS up in the correct range. Stock TPS setting @ closed .4 - .5v
Stock setting WOT about 4.5v
Best I could get the ITB TPS was .6 @ closed
and 4.4 @ WOT
The throttle linkage was alot easier than I thought! I used an extra throttle bracket from a D16a6 intake manifold, and it fit right off the backside perfect!
This kinda pissed me off, I mounted the TPS upside down, it was hitting the master cylinder. So I had to rotate it, and re-adjust it.
So now your thinking, what engine is he going to put this on? something cool? something built? haha, I dont think so, This was a b16a I required from doing a motor swap awhile back, the ****** was completely seized and full of rust in every cylinder, I pretty much thought it was junk, I gave the bitch a quick hone and threw a set of NAPA rings in, and even reused the head gasket, lol (more info, refer to the Trailerpark B16a thread on HMT)
http://www.homemadeturbo.com/f...14730
And of course I'm using the 85 Dollar Ebay 3 1/2-1 High Flow header, hahahaha
Overall, for a couple hundred bucks it was well worth it, it took a little bit to get running, the idle was pretty easy, a nice 1100-1200rpms. It sounds pretty interesting too, especially when vtec kicks in. I'll try to post some sound/video clips soon. The RPM range seems to be way up there, doesnt really pull good til about 7000~9000. (oh ya, high performance 1g Automatic b16a valve train)
How is this running? I use a Zdyne Gold SECU, I can change the maps however I like. Its a modified PR3 map with about 5% more fuel. I still need to go to the dyno and see what this thing is putting down.. The *** dyno says about 160-170ish
Enjoy
here we go!
Starting off with a set of 2001 Suzuki GSX-R Throttle bodies. I picked up this set on ebay for very cheap! 50 bucks. The spacing looked about right, I think it was about 80mm, perfect for alignment on the B-series head.
Measureing at 42mm @ the butterflys and tapers to a 45mm (which also had secondary butterflys that were taken out).
The stock manifold was chopped off slightly after the fuel rail mounts, I then had 1 1/2 inch long aluminum runners welded on (1.75od) After the welded I had the manifold surfaced on both sides, and threw a chanfer on the lips of each runner. (75 dollars weld/machine work)
Here are the cheap *** velocity stacks I got on ebay, they were 35 bucks. used some small machine screws to fasten them down. Looks kinda cheezy, but they do the job.
These are the silicone couplers that attach the Throttle bodies to the intake manifold. Sounds kinda half *** huh? well the factory Suzuki ITB's are this way, and most other bikes too! And after attaching them they were very sturdy. I used Napa bulk Silicone hose, with some hose clamps.
(20 bucks from Napa)
The Cover shield that hides the linkage and other stuff, just cosmetic.
The factory ITB Fuel injector bungs were JB welded shut, except for the last one which has my brake booster port coming out. You can also see the map sensor signal lines, each port all T's into one and goes to the map sensor.
Thought it looked long? so did I, but after measureing up with the stock manifold, I felt a bit better, I thought for sure the stacks would be touching the firewall, but its actually just a bit shorter than the stock manifold.
The TPS situation, well the Suzuki tps had a way differant range than the stock honda one, I tried to make it work, but it just wasnt happening, So the stock honda one had to be modified to fit somehow.
First I made a baseplate with a hole saw and some scrap aluminum. This is on the backside of the shaft (driverside)
The Brass fitting, was bored out to be a custom bushing for the shaft.
The Shaft is actually a honda throttle body shaft cut down about 1/4
Now for mounting, I used a piece of PVC pipe to space out the tps, so it could mount solid.
Hoggered out the holes on the base plate a bit, so I could get a good amount of adjustment.
Used some extra long machine screws to mount it down
All mounted down, Its very secure and pretty easy to adjust.
Now setting the TPS up in the correct range. Stock TPS setting @ closed .4 - .5v
Stock setting WOT about 4.5v
Best I could get the ITB TPS was .6 @ closed
and 4.4 @ WOT
The throttle linkage was alot easier than I thought! I used an extra throttle bracket from a D16a6 intake manifold, and it fit right off the backside perfect!
This kinda pissed me off, I mounted the TPS upside down, it was hitting the master cylinder. So I had to rotate it, and re-adjust it.
So now your thinking, what engine is he going to put this on? something cool? something built? haha, I dont think so, This was a b16a I required from doing a motor swap awhile back, the ****** was completely seized and full of rust in every cylinder, I pretty much thought it was junk, I gave the bitch a quick hone and threw a set of NAPA rings in, and even reused the head gasket, lol (more info, refer to the Trailerpark B16a thread on HMT)
http://www.homemadeturbo.com/f...14730
And of course I'm using the 85 Dollar Ebay 3 1/2-1 High Flow header, hahahaha
Overall, for a couple hundred bucks it was well worth it, it took a little bit to get running, the idle was pretty easy, a nice 1100-1200rpms. It sounds pretty interesting too, especially when vtec kicks in. I'll try to post some sound/video clips soon. The RPM range seems to be way up there, doesnt really pull good til about 7000~9000. (oh ya, high performance 1g Automatic b16a valve train)
How is this running? I use a Zdyne Gold SECU, I can change the maps however I like. Its a modified PR3 map with about 5% more fuel. I still need to go to the dyno and see what this thing is putting down.. The *** dyno says about 160-170ish
Enjoy
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Re: HMT doing HM-ITB's lots of pics.. 56k go away.. (AbaZ)
This is why I read this forum. To learn how to do stuff like this.
Awesome.
Awesome.
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Re: HMT doing HM-ITB's lots of pics.. 56k go away.. (Cheivic)
I responded to the other one and now Ill say that Im pretty sure more than a few of my friends are going to do this.
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#12
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Re: HMT doing HM-ITB's lots of pics.. 56k go away.. (AbaZ)
Hey that looks bad ***! I dont really know much about those kinds of intakes...maybe someone could enlighten me? How do they filter the air?
A box around them for boost???...again, dont know how they work...would you be able to boost on that setup?
A box around them for boost???...again, dont know how they work...would you be able to boost on that setup?
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Re: HMT doing HM-ITB's lots of pics.. 56k go away.. (AbaZ)
Every once in a while I read a post that reminds me why I joined this forum, this is most defintely one of them.
Great work man, and great write up too. I can't wait to see some numbers, and hear those babies.
Great work man, and great write up too. I can't wait to see some numbers, and hear those babies.
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damn man that is ******* bad ***!! never thought that could be made like that, if you dont mind sharing how much was spent into that.. (pretty sure a whole lot less that itb)
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Re: (PIMPIN)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by PIMPIN »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I know Im an idiot. But what does having Individuals actually do?</TD></TR></TABLE>
Not an expert - but this is way i think.
A = pi∙r²
---
64mm throttle body
r = 32mm --> Area = ~3220mm²---
---
42mm throttle body
r = 21mm --> Area = ~1385 but you have 4 of them... 1380 * 4 Area= ~5540mm²--
---
ok... so 5540=pi∙r² --> r=42mm - D=84mm!
---
It's like having an 84mm throttle body! (well.. not really) Another problem with the stock intake manifold is that all cylinders don't get the exact same amout of air - works really good, but having ITB's simplifies the physics of the IM quite a bit - you go bigger in a simple way.
Not an expert - but this is way i think.
A = pi∙r²
---
64mm throttle body
r = 32mm --> Area = ~3220mm²---
---
42mm throttle body
r = 21mm --> Area = ~1385 but you have 4 of them... 1380 * 4 Area= ~5540mm²--
---
ok... so 5540=pi∙r² --> r=42mm - D=84mm!
---
It's like having an 84mm throttle body! (well.. not really) Another problem with the stock intake manifold is that all cylinders don't get the exact same amout of air - works really good, but having ITB's simplifies the physics of the IM quite a bit - you go bigger in a simple way.
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Re: (sircrxracer)
Thanks guys
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by juanb »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">damn man that is ******* bad ***!! never thought that could be made like that, if you dont mind sharing how much was spent into that.. (pretty sure a whole lot less that itb)</TD></TR></TABLE>
I have around 200 bucks in the entire setup, with probably a couple hours labor.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by CRX-RX »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Bust out the welder, get rid of the napa joint and boost it already You can't treat a trailer park ***** like a princess </TD></TR></TABLE>
You can't weld to the ITB units, or it will distort the shape of the bore, and the butterflies wont open. It just gets to hot, so that why we attached them with rubber hose. There is no leaks, and it has a nice smooth transition from the ITB unit to the manifold.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by B16CRXT »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Hey that looks bad ***! I dont really know much about those kinds of intakes...maybe someone could enlighten me? How do they filter the air?
A box around them for boost???...again, dont know how they work...would you be able to boost on that setup?</TD></TR></TABLE>
You could build a large plenum around them if you wanted so it could accept boost, but I have a nice JG vic X manifold on the bench that I'd like to use insted How do they filter air? well you can get individual air cleaners if ya want, or put some screen mesh over them. But personally this engine means nothing to me, so it has no filtration what so ever
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 1CiViC1 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">very nice! what gsxr did those itbs come from? 1000cc...600cc?? thanks</TD></TR></TABLE>
GSXR 1000, and I'm pretty sure the GSXR 750's use the same ones.
Honestly guys it's really not tough to do this, look in the phone book and find someone who can do aluminum welding/fabrication.. bring an extra manifold to them and tell them what you want, shouldnt be more than 100 bucks. Then just slap these babies on!
Jeff
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by juanb »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">damn man that is ******* bad ***!! never thought that could be made like that, if you dont mind sharing how much was spent into that.. (pretty sure a whole lot less that itb)</TD></TR></TABLE>
I have around 200 bucks in the entire setup, with probably a couple hours labor.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by CRX-RX »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Bust out the welder, get rid of the napa joint and boost it already You can't treat a trailer park ***** like a princess </TD></TR></TABLE>
You can't weld to the ITB units, or it will distort the shape of the bore, and the butterflies wont open. It just gets to hot, so that why we attached them with rubber hose. There is no leaks, and it has a nice smooth transition from the ITB unit to the manifold.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by B16CRXT »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Hey that looks bad ***! I dont really know much about those kinds of intakes...maybe someone could enlighten me? How do they filter the air?
A box around them for boost???...again, dont know how they work...would you be able to boost on that setup?</TD></TR></TABLE>
You could build a large plenum around them if you wanted so it could accept boost, but I have a nice JG vic X manifold on the bench that I'd like to use insted How do they filter air? well you can get individual air cleaners if ya want, or put some screen mesh over them. But personally this engine means nothing to me, so it has no filtration what so ever
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 1CiViC1 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">very nice! what gsxr did those itbs come from? 1000cc...600cc?? thanks</TD></TR></TABLE>
GSXR 1000, and I'm pretty sure the GSXR 750's use the same ones.
Honestly guys it's really not tough to do this, look in the phone book and find someone who can do aluminum welding/fabrication.. bring an extra manifold to them and tell them what you want, shouldnt be more than 100 bucks. Then just slap these babies on!
Jeff
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Re: (AbaZ)
Dude your like Red Green without the Duct tape, Much respect for you and your mechanical ability to create ideas in your head and make them reality.
You remind me of myself, I just dont have any money laying around to be farting around with DIY mods, I will soon though.
KEEP UP THE GOOD WORK!!!
You remind me of myself, I just dont have any money laying around to be farting around with DIY mods, I will soon though.
KEEP UP THE GOOD WORK!!!