BadassEFdriver

Is it absolutly neccessary to have a reservior tank? My cars been overheating lately but i see no reason why, I have a all aluminum mishimoto rad, and I Custom made a oil catch to be used as a reservior tank. "ordered off ebay guy said it was a damn rad reservior tank!" I wanna know if it might be this since theres no air in the tank? and water doesnt seem to get into there, i know stock tanks all the radiator pressure is still able to breath so just wanna know if anyones done this n had problems with this, ill just plug it up if i have to

BadassEFdriver

any suggestions guys? i know its a stupid question but need to know this

D16SiHatch

if i'm right about how the catch can is set up internally then it will not function properly as a overflow tank. stock tanks have tubes that run down from the cap to almost the bottom of the tank. this way the line will never suck back in air cause it's always submerged. unless you set it up as such, i don't believe that catch can has a tube running down inside it. now that aside, i don't believe it's what is causing your overheating problem. can you elaborate on when it does it, and by how much.

BadassEFdriver

yes i actually did put a hose running from the top of the can to the bottom, i knew it wouldnt work without it. didnt add that in there. and it only overheats when im stuck in traffic in first gear, accelerating and stopping in a short distance alot. never overheated on the highway. Im thinking maybe my fan aint strong enough? But i heard u dont really need a fan for all aluminum rad

jdmzach

no u still need a fan for the alum rad. i think...and as for when its overheating, i think u need to bleed your coolant, or flush it, and check your thermostat. when my thermostat was going out, i could be sitting at idle, and temp would be fine, but when i accelerated it would drop, until i let off the gas, then it would go back to normal. and would do this everytime i took off/let off the throttle. at first i thought the guage or sending unit was bad, replaced both, and still had the problem. so try what i mentioned, it might fix it.

jdmzach

at the worst, you could be in the early stages of a blown headgasket....may want to do a leakdown and compression test too if you have the tools?

BadassEFdriver

will a compression test determine if the head gasket is blown? and i did just install that rad and reservior tank about 3 weeks ago, changed out the fluid. And also fluid started leaking out more mugen rad cap (which aint made for mishimoto rad's) when i was stuck in traffic as if there was too much water or too much pressure in the radiator at the time. but i switched it w the origonal cap and it was still overheating in traffic..got on the highway, cooled down, after that it didnt over heat at stops??? so idk why it only did it in traffic

D16SiHatch

so you're sure that the fan is coming on though correct?

Echo 6

yea if it overheats in traffic but not on the highway i would definitley check that fan, also are you having to add coolant to it every once in a while? if so it may be a pin-hole leak in a hose, those can be hard to detect...

~sp33~

My guess is a fan issue.

Also make sure that the fan is pushing air toward the firewall, and not spinning the wrong way.

brixcivic

first off..... make sure the system is bled.. make sure the fan turns on... make sure both rad hoses get hot.. now if problem still exists change water pump.... if one hose gets hot not the other then change thermostat

BadassEFdriver

yes i made sure of that. Okay lesson learned here NEVER BUY NO NAME EBAY SLIM RAD FANS its a pos! lol it barely spins at some times, and everytime it push it toward the rad it starts spinnnig fast, as the way its suppose to. And ground is good already checked as well as the positve line my stock fan didnt have this problem..and i might have a little hose leak..so anyone know of any GOOD slim radiator fan brands??

BadassEFdriver

Im looking for a fan that bolts onto the front of the rad and blow toward the firewall too. Cause im going to be running Tri-Ys soon and idk if it will even clear that pos fan i have anyway

~sp33~

Sounds like it has a loose connection, electric motors are pretty simple, if it's not hitting on the shroud then the only reason it'll slow down is if there's not as much power getting to the motor.

Ahknodd

Are you sure you have the correct fan? There are slim 'pusher' and 'puller' fans. The puller fans (like stock fans) will pull the air through your radiator. The pusher fans mount to the front (bumper side) of the radiator and will push the air through the radiator. If you wire up your fan and it's pushing the air through the radiator then you've got a pusher already.

If your fan is broke I have a slim pusher fan I'm not using. Let me know if you're interested.

Echo 6

FAL slim fans cost more but they are good, i've seen lots of people run those with no problems

Mishimoto

Bleed cooling system for air, check to make sure fans are coming on, check for leaks in the system.

If you are overheating at a standstill, the fan(s) may be having issues.

BTW, our fans can be wired as pushers or pullers, whichever you would like. The single 12" Mishimoto pusher fan that I have on my Civic radiator keeps everything under control without any problems.

OP, let me know if I can help with this issue anymore.

BadassEFdriver

Yes i was thinking there was too much air build up in my cooling system, since air/coolant managed to escape through my mugen rad cap (now i just use the stock mishi one) how do you bleed the cooling system for air? and how can they be wired differently to be pushers or pullers, I was looking at the fans yall sell

BadassEFdriver

yes it is a puller fan bolted onto the back of the rad pulling air toward the firewall..What kinda fan is it, brand? Im not getting no-name brands no more

Mishimoto

Bleeding: while the radiator cap is still off, bleed air in system by starting your car’s engine and turn on the heat, continually topping off the radiator as bubbles work their way out. Be sure to squeeze the radiator hoses to help air exit the system. Use caution as you squeeze the hoses, as they will have become hot. I have seen people raise the front of the car as well to assist in bleeding air out.

For the fans, instead of wiring the pos. to pos./neg. to neg., you just reverse the polarity. Now, it should be neg (from the fan) connected to the pos (from the harness), and pos (from the fan) connected to the neg (from the harness).

I am actually finishing up an install guide with pictures within the next day or two, so make sure to be on the look-out for that! If you don't feel like searching for it, just send me a PM and I can send it to you once completed.

Thanks,
-Pat

Ahknodd

To bleed your cooling system, first let the car cool down so you can pull your radiator cap without getting burned. Then there is a 10mm or 12mm bleed screw on top of the outlet on the head. You can see it in your pic in your first post. Pull that out. Then start filling your radiator with at least a 50/50 mix of coolant/water until coolant begins to come out of the bleed hole. Squeeze the hoses as you fill to get any air out of them. Put the screw back in and tighten it down. Then keep filling your radiator until it is full. Now start the car and let it idle, you should get the last few air bubbles out. Top off as needed and then put the radiator cap back on. Top off your coolant reservoir and then go drive the thing. Check the reservoir to make sure you've got enough coolant in it.

The fan I have I don't know the brand. I will take a look and let you know. I'll snap some pics for ya too.
Hope all of this helps. Good luck.
My money is on your fan not coming on. Same thing happened to me the other day in the Taco Bell drive thru. Lol, turned out to just be the relay on the passenger side behind the head light. Luckily I have an ef 4 door parts car.

Mishimoto

^^ My y8 doesn't have a bleeder valve on the upper coolant housing, but my spare z6 head in the garage has one. I didn't want to assume if he had one or not, so I refrained from mentioning it.

Also, I didn't see it in the picture he posted either...unless I completely missed it.

Ahknodd

Yeah, that'd be my bad. I thought the 10 mm bolt was it, but that's for the cam cap. Lol. oops. I know b series have them, I think they're down on the thermostat or something. can't remember off the top of my head.

looked at my spare fan and it's a no name. I haven't had any problems with mine (same company, I only used the one though).

BadassEFdriver

lol taco bell thats the place ialways go to, thanks for the info were would that bleed screw be at?

Mishimoto

I think ahknodd corrected himself and agreed with me about the bleeder screw. If you cannot locate the bleeder screw, then do as I stated. Remove the cap, turn the heat on in the car, start car, and allow for all the bubbles to surface. I have seen people jack up the front of the car in order to speed up the process, too.

More information on how to do this is below.

http://www.mishimoto.com/how-to-guid...n-coolant.html