Today I finished taking out my stock fuel pump and replacing it with my Walbro HP 255lph fuel pump which I bought from lightningmotorsports.com . Installation was pretty easy, but before I actually did it I was afraid I was going to do something wrong. Once you lower the fuel tank and look at it you'll see it's very simple. But even though it's pretty easy I thought I'd write a short how-to so that you guys who want to do this aren't going in blind. I'm including a list of things you might want to have incase a few things break
-spare fuel hose (5/16" or 8mm) a foot or 6 inches should be enough
-some tiny hose clamps for the fuel hose at least 4
-2 washers for fuel bolt p/n 90428-PD6-003
-2 J bolts p/n 17525-SH3-010 (I bought two spares but my stock ones were still good)
-4 J bolt nuts p/n 94002-08000-0S (I bought 4 of these too, but my stock ones were still good)
-2 J bolt washers p/n 94101-08800 (bought some of these but stock ones were also good)
-2 fuel tank support straps p/n 17521-SH3-030 (right) 17522-SH3-020 (left) (buy these only if you think yours are bad or worn--I didn't buy them at all)
-a tool kit, needle nose and snub nose pliers, butt connectors crimping tool (or soldering iron if you want to solder your connections)
-some way to support the fuel tank, I used a transmission jack which had a 4x4" surface area
before I started I drove the car until the fuel gauge was on the E. The tank was light enough for me to move around with that little fuel in there.
-Chock the front tires, and jack the back of the car up
-Remove gas cap and relieve fuel pressure in the system by SLOWLY loosening service bolt on fuel filter banjo fitting
-Place transmission jack below center of fuel tank (or use a hydraulic car jack, two tire changing jacks or some extra jackstands. Tranny jack or hyd. car jack would be best)
-With fuel tank supported loosen the nuts on the two J bolts about haflway. No need to remove them...you can unhook the J bolt from the chassis once there is enough slack on the strap.
-Look for two bolts that are holding the plastic covers in place to the drivers side of the fuel tank. Unbolt these 2 bolts and set them aside (see pic #2 "plastic fuel line cover).
-Once J bolts are unhooked the tank is supported by the jack. DO NOT DROP TANK ALL THE WAY DOWN YET
-SLOWLY lower fuel tank until you can see top of tank with fuel hardlines. There are two fuel lines going from the chassis to the top of the fuel pump assembly (aka fuel pump bracket), Make sure that the hardline or the banjo bolt line do not get kinked, torn or bent.
-With a 17mm shallow socket SLOWLY loosen the fuel banjo bolt. Do it slowly cause fuel will start to spill out of the banjo bolt. Once the banjo bolt stops leaking take the bolt off and set it aside. Make sure no gunk gets in the fuel line banjo fitting.
-With a 10mm (I think) deep socket unscrew the 6 nuts holding the top of the fuel pump bracket to the fuel tank
-There is a hardline connected to the top of the fuel pump bracket. you will see that midway through the hardline it is bolted down to the fuel tank. From underneath undo the nut that is holding the hardline to the fuel tank (see pic #1).
-Look at the electrical wiring coming out of the top of the fuel pump bracket it might be held in place on the fuel tank by some plastic C clips, take the wire out of the C clips. Look back at your fuel pump hardline (not the one with the banjo fitting)...follow the hardline away from the fuel pump and you will see that it connects to a rubber fuel line. Undo the fuel line retaining clamp...remove the rubber fuel line from the hardline and be ready for more fuel spillage.
-Raise the fuel pump bracket out of the fuel tank...raise it up towards the driver side of the car. You may have to rotate the pump assembly to get the filter out. Since the hardlines and fuel najo line is no longer hooked up to the top of the fuel pump bracket you can lower the fuel tank a little more to make removal of the fuel pump easier.
-Once the fuel pump assembly is out you'll notice the wiring is still hooked up to it. It is not necessary to nhook the wiring. You can swap out the fuel pump right there behind your left rear tire. Just make sure that the pump is not hanging by the electrical wires.
-IMPORTANT: find the positive and negative wires that are going into the fuel pump. TIP: you can see +/- on the top of the fuel pump--the negative wire is USUALLY the shorter of the two wires and it goes from the plug right to the pump bracket--the positive wire USUALLY goes through a ziptie loop which is attached to the pump bracket and it goes behind the fuel pump cradle. Once you have identified the positive and negative wires REMEMBER THEM.
-Once you have identified the positive and negative wires snip them as close to the fuel pump as possible.
-To remove fuel pump stick a flathead screwdriver through the bottom of the fuel pump cradle and pry the fuel pump out. Dont bent the fuel pump cradle.
-Unhook the fuel pump hose from the bracket nipple
-Assemble your Walbro fuel pump and install the white extension between the fuel pump filter and the bottom of the pump. Make sure the bottom rubber piece is also installed. Hold in next to the bracket assembly and make sure the fuel pump filter is the same height as the old one.
-Take your fuel pump plug and match up the positive wire on your plug to the positive wire on the fuel pump bracket...do the same for the negative wire on the plug and bracket. Take the wiring and solder or crimp the wires together positive to positive and neg to neg. You might have to shorten the wiring on your fuel pump plug so that there is not a lot of wiring around the fuel pump bracket area.
-Install rubber fuel hose on top of fuel pump and install two worm gear clamps
-Install other end of fuel hose to bracket nipple, tighten worm gear clamps
-Push bottom of fuel pump which has rubber piece into the bottom of the fuel pump bracket/cradle
-Plug in your fuel pump plug
-Install fuel pump bracket/assembly back into fuel pump reverse of removal. Before you put the fuel pump assy back on you might wanna put some sealant where the fuel pump bracket meets the fuel tank to help seal it.
-Make sure you didnt mix up the holes, best way to check is to see where the hardlines middle brackets goes. It should go into the hole on the side of the fuel tank.
-Reinstall 6 bolts on top of fuel pump bracket. Tighten bolts in a criss-cross manner. DO NOT OVERTIGHTEN THEM. It only takes 4 foot/lbs or 48 inch/lbs or torque to tighten these bolts.
-Raise fuel tank slightly until you can connect the hardline to the rubber fuel line on the chassis. The stock clamp might be harder to get back on due to the tight space. You might wanna replace it with a worm gear clamp instead.
-Check fuel line with banjo fitting and ensure it is clean and not clogged. Take new washers and the stock banjo bolt and reinstall them. Put one washer on the banjo bolt, put the bolt through the fuel line banjo fitting, put on another washer and screw the bolt into the fuel tank. Just feel around for the hole with your finger...make sure the washer doesn't fall off the banjo bolt. Use your 17mm shallow wrench and torque the banjo bolt to 16 foot/lbs or 192 inch/lbs.
-Take wiring and place it back in C clip that is behind fuel tank
-Raise fuel tank all the way
-Install both J bolts back into the upside down pear/lightbulb shaped notch in the chassis.
-Tighten 2 J bolt nuts
-Reinstall screws onto plastic cover that is on driver side of fuel tank.
-Remove all items and tools out from underneath car
-Lower car to ground
-Reinstall gas cap
-Tighten fuel filter service bolt
-Plug in stock fuel level sender plug. This is the one underneath the rear storage bins.
-Turn key to on position and listen for fuel pump priming up
-Start car and check for leaks under fuel tank area.
Re: FAQ how-to install a Walbro fuel pump into CRX (jason_alt)
Originally Posted by jason_alt
Great info. Thank you very much.
One thing I forgot to mention...the second pic might be a little hard to understand. But if you wantto know what bolt or item goes into what slot, etc. Just pay attention to the arrows. The arrows are either black or white, and they're either single arrows or double arrows. Just match the same color and number of arrows up to each other and you'll see what connects to what.
For example the J bolt has black double arrows. If you look through the windows of the CRX you'll see those two holes with black double arrows. The J bolts go into these holes.
Sweet! I was just about to tackle this job too but my pump mysteriously started working again. I'd like to add that it would be a good idea to test the wiring and the new pump first before reinstalling everything.
88 BMW M3
88 Honda CRX Si w/modified B16A
Re: FAQ how-to install a Walbro fuel pump into CRX (BlueShadow)
so you do have to remove the fuel tank in order to get to the pump? then it is not going to be as easy as changing one on an eg? for the eg's you just take the cover off and loosen some bolts. i have noticed that there is also a cover for the ef's. any body wanna shed some light on this?
Re: FAQ how-to install a Walbro fuel pump into CRX (peiku)
On EF-s and I'm pretty sure DA's too, you have to drop the tank to get to the fuel pump. You dont have to remove it, you just have to lower the fuel tank slightly to be able to get to the top of the fuel tank.
Re: FAQ how-to install a Walbro fuel pump into CRX (2ndgentegracer)
That's what I figured rom diagrams I've seen on DA Teg FSM's. The tank can be dropped all the way down, you just have to be careful of the fuel lines and electrical lines. If they are still connected to the tank when you drop the tank to the ground you could damage the fuel/electrical lines.
Re: FAQ how-to install a Walbro fuel pump into CRX (TurboSmart)
I made up this pic to help point out a few things. Things like the positive wire on the fuel pump harness, and the hardline which connects to the top of the fuel pump bracket were visible on one of the diagrams. But I went ahead and pointed them out to make sure there is no confusion in the terms I used.
I actually remember reading that prior to doing my fuel pump install. All the talk about doing a mockup to make sure the angle was right made me worried. But when you have the stock pump/filter out side-by-side with the Walbro pump/filter you'll see that they are both the same depth. Unless of course you have the wrong installation kit, but mine was the right one.
Re: FAQ how-to install a Walbro fuel pump into CRX
4 year old thread back from the tomb.
Any thread in the FAQ should have it's images grabbed and re-stored on the HT server. I'm tired of seeing the regular users tell the noobs, "Look in the FAQ", and when you do, you see threads like this. Pics missing and text below a missing pic that says, "here are some pics to help you out"...
No... I can't see what you did there, the thread is over 5 years old and his image storage account is gone. This isn't the worst I've seen, just reminded me about it.
Rant over. My apologies.
1993 hatch...1/8 mile firstname.lastname@example.org, 1.449 60'
1993 hatch...1/4 mile email@example.com
"A tow truck? That's a hundred bucks. I can replace the van for 75."
Honda and the Honda marquee are registered trademarks of the American Honda Motor Company, Inc. Neither American Honda Motor Company nor its subsidiaries or affiliates shall bear any responsibility for Honda-Tech.com content, comments, or advertising. Honda-Tech.com is not affiliated with American Honda Motor Company in any way. American Honda Motor Company does not sponsor, support, or endorse Honda-Tech.com in any way.
Copyright/trademark/sales mark infringements are not intended or implied.