CivicWagonRUS

I was wondering if anyone has done this themselves: Removing the lower ball joint from the steering knuckle. Hayne's says that the only way around this is to take it to the dealer shop that has specialized tools. Has anyone done this without special tools? Or is it possible to purchase these tools for personal use? How much would one cost? TIA

Zaakro

this special tool is called a H. press. you can buy one if you have a couple grand laying around

CivicWagonRUS

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Zaakro &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">this special tool is called a H. press. you can buy one if you have a couple grand laying around</TD></TR></TABLE>

crap. I guess my mechanic can now rejoice. 2 axles + 2 lower balljoints + 1 upper ball joint/arm is going to cost a pretty penny.

godruler

Ball joints are a pure cake walk man. take your knuckle out, put it on something sturdy,get something like a 15/16" deep socket put over the stud side of the ball joint, take the c-clip off and beat the thing out, i can usually get a ball joint out within 5 whacks with my hammer and do a pair within 45 minutes. all that work your speaking up should take no more than 2 hours and if it does get a new mechanic and tell yours he sucks.

higgunscrx

bfh (big ****** hammer) is all you need and some snap ring pliers.

Crx Jimmy

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by higgunscrx &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">bfh (big ****** hammer) is all you need and some snap ring pliers. </TD></TR></TABLE>

x2 BFH FTW! takes about 5-6 good wacks with a lump mallet(mini-sledge) dont use a regular hammer you need something with some weight behind it. just put the new one in and put a piece of wood(so you dont damage new one ) on top and hammer it back in, very easy

CivicWagonRUS

Thanks for all the help guys. I'm replacing both CV axles, and both lower ball joints, so I need as many tips and hints as possible. What brand ball joints are best? I don't car much for them giving my DD race car handling, just a secure ride and that they don't fall apart in a couple of years. Advance Auto has some for $13 a piece, but maybe that's a bad idea. Any experience with the cheap kind?

daver

i put a 25$ lower ball joint in my integra 1.5 years ago and it lasted fine with plenty of milage. I only did it because it thought i was unloading the car.

However, i kept the car, and needed to pull the stud out to replace the shock. Had to use a pickle fork and a lot of hammering to get it out because the stud was rust siezed in there. That ruins the ball joint. My trusty 130$ ball joint (stud) puller clamp had never failed me til now.

So, if you use them, its to get rid of the car, because if you ever have to pop the lower stud off for any other work, it'll likely mean a new ball joint. I'm putting new honda joints in both sides, but i'm in the middle of having a hard time pressing them in. The socket/c-clamp trick is bending the c-clamp. hammering it in is not working. I froze the joint and heated the knuckle too, i guess i'll have to bring it into work and use the press. good thing i have two cars.

d

daver

i know this is an old thread, but i'll make a good search reference.

I managed to hammer the ball joint in. My problem with hammering it before was it was trying to go crooked and would bind. So use the big c-clamp and a large socket (or a short peice of exhaust pipe- cheaper), to get it half way, then hammer the rest of the way in and presto. NOt sure if it will be easier on civics or not.

btw, some new ball joints from honda don't seem to have the circlips and groove anymore.

d


Modified by daver at 2:19 AM 7/6/2007

EJ8 Kenobi

I'm getting ready to remove my knuckle and try to replace the lower ball joint on my civic. I'll try your technique.

DenzComp

BFH worked great for me!

daver

ahh good, here's some more help...

daver

btw, getting the old one out was easy peasy. pry out the circlip by any means necessary, then just hammer away at the end of the stud and around the rubber boot. don't forget to pry out the wheel bearing ring thing first.

d

dr_latino999

BFH

fireant

remove it with a socket and bfh (take out the circlip and the bearing dust cover first!). Putting the new one is is not as easy. Use a big c-clamp and big socket or a small hammer and lots of lube and patience to tap it in. I would imagine putting the joint in the freezer for 30 minutes might help too.

daver

i did do the freeze joint /heat knuckle method, but i think it was a drop in the bucket. a propane torch may not be enough to heat it. the way i ended up doing it was pretty easy tho

Its me DUB

Good stuff...will use this technique soon!

I've been doing some searching though, and was hoping someone could answer me this: What are the effects of a bad lower ball joint? How would one know when theirs are going out and need changed and also, what would happen if beyond bad ball joints were not replaced?


Modified by doitdub at 9:46 PM 7/24/2007

fourthgenhatchB17

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by doitdub &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

what would happen if beyond bad ball joints were not replaced?


Modified by doitdub at 9:46 PM 7/24/2007</TD></TR></TABLE>

It will separate and possibly cause you to get into an accident. Not good. Ive seen it happen to an EF while coasting. At low speed (around 10mph) it messed the axle up as well as the fender.

daver

i've never seen a lower balljoint get looser from age. they get tighter and sieze up, then the stud breaks, the axel rips out, the fender sits on the tire and you could die if your going fast enoughin the wrong place.

these studs break on older honda's more than you think, i look for it on every honda i see pulled off the road.

thats why i suggest checking the joint once a year on older cars. pop the stud out and wiggle the stud to check for stiffness. If it stiff or notchy, replace the thing already. the boot doesn't even have to be torn, but the grease inside can be like dried up snot, from age.

Its me DUB

Thanks for the clarification guys.

Are there any signs on them going out other than just getting down there and looking? Difference in driving? Noises? Anything like that?

fourthgenhatchB17

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by daver &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">i've never seen a lower balljoint get looser from age. they get tighter and sieze up...

</TD></TR></TABLE>

Hmm i've seen the stud develope quite a bit of play inside the joint...totally opposite from the 'tighter' feel u describe.

turkishEF

Mine are pretty bad right now. I tore the boots doing the same thing (swapping out shocks and springs, pickle fork tore right through them.)

It makes a loose chattering sound. Like something needs to be tightened.

daver

well, i havn't seen it yet, the upper ones sure get loose tho. i don't recall any warning that he stud was about to break. fortunately, i was in a driveway doing about 2mph at the time, with my acura.

my uncle had it happen with his g4 civic while taking a corning in town. scared the snort out of him

daver

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by turkishEF &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Mine are pretty bad right now. I tore the boots doing the same thing (swapping out shocks and springs, pickle fork tore right through them.)

It makes a loose chattering sound. Like something needs to be tightened. </TD></TR></TABLE>

you actually used a pickle fork to pull your ball joints and intended to reuse them?

IP RACING

i did one of my ball joints before. wasnt very fun but I also used the hammer meothd along with freezing the ball joint for 30 minutes and heating the knuckle with a torch. didnt really help that much but i got it in.