Randysi

Alright so I replaced both wheel cylinders on the rear drum brake on my hatch. Didnt have any fluid in the master cylinder. Car has been setting for quite a while. Put fluid in the master cylinder and started to bleed the brakes like normal. did it like this (pass rear, driver front, driver rear, pass front) Topped off master cylinder when needed. pumped 10 times and opened bleeder. repeated as needed. It seemed really good for a while but when we started it and took it for a test drive it would go almost all the way to the floor and I would have to press it all the way for it to stop the car. I did not "bench bleed" the master cylinder.

What is wrong with this? Or what could be wrong?(master cylinder... etc...)

Thanks for any help. Need these brakes asap..

Randysi

Im guessing I need to bench bleed. Anyone confirm this?

93delsold16z6

is the booster hooked up? that will make you push harder than normal

Randysi

Its super easy to push to the floor and brakes dont work till it hits the floor


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TearSDMF89dx

sounds like there is still air in the system ...or the master cylinder has took a poop

Randysi

Seems a little harded to push the brake pedal to the floor while car is off


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TearSDMF89dx

it will be harder to push the pedal with no booster assisting it another thing to think about is if the rear brakes are properly adjusted if they aren't then you would need more fluid to fill the wheel cylinders to push the shoes out thus effectively making the pedal feel low/ spongy

Randysi

Thanks for the reply. I just got home from working on it. I bench bled the master cylinder and then hooked the brake lines back up. I havent yet to bleed the system at the wheels yet. But I did take it for a test drive and its a little better but still goes almost all the way to the floor but brakes lock up good when I press hard on the pedal.

I guess my question is, if I bleed them at the wheels now SHOULD brakes work and feel like normal?

Another thing. I attempted to test the brake booster by seeing if it was hissing and what not out of the line that runs to the intake. It was. And it had plenty of suction.

Thanks for any help!

villc713

Bleed them from farthest to master cylinder (passenger rear, driver rear, passenger front, and driver front last.

Randysi

I know thats like common sense. But I had seen where your supposed to bleed them like I did? Whats the truth???

villc713

Truth is you always bleed from farthest of the MC.

Randysi

Alright thanks man. Do you think thats the problem? Cause I didnt bleed them like that?

villc713

Possibly and also may be still a lot of air in the system.

Randysi

Alright thanks. If anyone can also agree that you should do it farthest to closest that would be nice. I dont see it was posted the way I did it

Randysi

6th post down???

https://honda-tech.com/forums/suspension-brakes-54/dc-ef-brake-swap-2761755/

Randysi

And I just read something that said I need my car idling when I bleed the brakes!? Need the brakes working asap!

villc713

Idk man cuz I did mines the same way you did after I did the 4x114.3 itr conversion on my ef and for some reason the pedal feels soggy but would still brake, I had to bleed them a whole lot until they felt alright.

Randysi

So which way did you use in the end? Rr, fl, rl, fr?


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