d15b2 to d15z1
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d15b2 to d15z1
so im swapping the engine out of a 4 door EF and puting into it a d15z1 from a 92 civic hatch. ive read that the d15z1 is a v-tec e engine but it has a different head swapped onto it. what i want to know is what will i need to convert the harness from obd0 to obd1 and what hard problems should i encounter going from dual point to multi point?
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Re: d15b2 to d15z1
boy oh boy. you need to search. look in the faq. its not a hard job to do, searching i mean. and the swap isn't that hard either. to go from obd0 to obd1 you need a jumper harness, you can get them on ebay for like 50 bucks or so. the vtec-e is economical. it only allows the intake valves to open partially instead of fully. i'm not sure but i think its something in the ecu that controls that. so don't buy a vx ecu, get an ex the p28.
#3
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Re: d15b2 to d15z1
Actually the d15z1 will be more difficult than a normal vtec motor to wire up.
You need to go from a one wire to a 5 wire, wideband o2 sensor (factory on the z1). You also need to wire up the EGR control box, located on the firewall.
For the VX to run correctly, go with the VX specific ECU. It is a non-chipable ECU so you should be able to get it cheap.
If you're not looking for economy, go with a d15a6 for the least amount of work, or with the d16z6 which will require you to do the obd conversion.
You need to go from a one wire to a 5 wire, wideband o2 sensor (factory on the z1). You also need to wire up the EGR control box, located on the firewall.
For the VX to run correctly, go with the VX specific ECU. It is a non-chipable ECU so you should be able to get it cheap.
If you're not looking for economy, go with a d15a6 for the least amount of work, or with the d16z6 which will require you to do the obd conversion.
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