94preludeguy

I've searched and searched and I cannot find a solution for my problem. Some background I have a 1991 CRX SI. Stock D16a6, 212k miles.. Had a problem in the beginning where it seemed like it was misfiring on one cylinder. It'd be so bad where the car would jerk back and forth like crazy. Did a basic tune up plugs, wires, cap, rotor, fuel filter and o2 sensor, helped a lot but the car would still sputter quite a bit. Found a brand new dizzy for $60 so I went a head and just replaced that, still has a problem. I put fuel system cleaner in the car and the sputtering started to clear up a little bit. I did a highway trip last week and it ran pretty smooth the entire way. Well when I got into town, it started to sputter and run rough again. Put a brand new fuel pump in. Car started, sputtered again real bad. No signs of clearing up. Hit the road today, car is running like complete crap. Eventually it dies, won't start back up. Wait a minute or two, it starts up again. It did this three more times, until I pulled into the nearest gas station.

Now the car won't start at all. I diagnosed the main relay tonight. I get all three clicks. I checked for cracked solder joints. Even resoldered every joint for reassurance. Plugged the relay back in, still get three clicks. Still won't start. Fuel pump is priming and stops priming once the check engine light turns off. Also, before the car would no longer start, I started pulling the wires off while it was running. When I pulled the wire out of the number two cylinder (from right to left) the car completely died. Whereas the other three it would just slow the idle and start to cut out. It also seemed like I was getting pretty poor spark when I was arcing the wires to test for it.

So just to recap, all has been replaced:
- Spark Plugs
- Plug Wires
- Fuel Filter
- o2 Sensor
- Distributor
- Fuel Pump
- Main Relay (resoldered + checked for cracked joints)

Could poor compression cause a no start? I was reading that a bad headgasket could cause some of the problems I've been having because it's been coming and going for the past month or two. However the coolant/oil is not milky or appear to be mixed and the car has no overheating issues whatsoever.

Any other ideas or common things I might have missed? I'm at my dad's place over 100 miles away from my house and need to get back home asap. Can only call into work so much. Please Honda-Tech help me out here.

94preludeguy

Just did a compression test. It was a cold test 137 148 150 150. Compression is fine.

Icon_Ed6

weird, If the car is dying when u pull #2 then it sounds like #2cyl is your only strong cylinder.

Since u are pressed for time I'm gonna throw out a bunch of suggestions at once, hopefully one will help
First thing first, most the time when you have a no-start condition, a CEL is present. Do you have 1? Or have you recently had one?

Do you have a stock cat on your car? or do you know the last time it was replaced?

When you did your pump, how did the gas in the tank smell? Possibly got some bad gas... doubt it tho... jus a thought since you said the fuel system treatment helped alot.

Have you checked timing?
Have you check fuel pressure with jus key on and also during cranking?
Also, the brand new dizzy you got for $60... is it brand new or jus "new to the car"?
Misconception... Oil will be "milky" or coolant will have oil in it when the H-Gasket is blown, it all depends on where the gasket fails n how severe it is. It can be jus slight coolant entering the chamber, Are you losing any coolant at all, (not leaks)?

I'm sure you have already, but check your grounds, (thermostat housing n tranny ground mainly) and also if you can get a different pgmfi relay, it wouldn't hurt seems how its 20 years old

94preludeguy

Another thing is that the number two spark plug has normal burn. However the other three are pretty black. Like it was running rich or something in those three cylinders. A CEL did pop on but I had to restart the car several times so it went away. I did have a code 1 which went away with the new o2 sensor. Stock catalytic converter, not sure if/when it was replaced. When I replaced the fuel pump, I drained all the gas, completely took out the gas tank and shook fresh gas in it. I then strained and dumped it into buckets. I did this about 15 times to wash a lot of the crap out of the tank. Fuel is clean as can be. I even took the liberty of getting the rust off the pump assembly and fuel sending unit in front.

Can't really check timing or fuel pressure since it's not starting. Timing should be spot on though. Is it possible the belt jumped a tooth or something? The dizzy had less than 100 miles on it and it definitely showed. So I know it's a good dizzy and even have my old one if I really wanted to test it. I have not lost a drop of coolant since I've owned the car. I just bought a Haynes manual so I will re-check all the grounds. I really don't want to spend the money on a main relay when I know mine should be working fine. It consistently does all three clicks and has been completely resoldered, so I don't think it's part of the issue.

Icon_Ed6

You can check what the pressure is when you initially cycle the key on, then you can watch to see whats its doing while cranking, if its low then clamp the return line to boost it up a lil. I'd crank it for about 10 seconds a few times but don't turn the key off, jus to try to see if you can get a CEL during cranking.

As far as timing, even if it was off only 1 tooth, it should still run but it never hurts to double check.

You can unbolt the exhaust right at the front of the cat, its super easy, & leave it unbolted & try to fire it. Jus to eliminate the possibility of a clogged cat. Cuz that can be a problem.

I know this part might be insulting, but are you 100% positive you have the firing order on the spark plug wires correct? I ask cuz I see this alot from customers at our shop so I gotta check.

94preludeguy

Pressure was like 37psi when the fuel pump was priming. So I believe fuel pressure is okay. I took the cap off and noticed it was shot. New cap, STILL WON'T START. I'm really starting to lose all hope here. We're not getting spark at all now.. Going to try my old dizzy. Any other suggestions? Just came back on here to search a bit more.

Icon_Ed6

I think its in the dizzy.

What cap was shot? the dizzy cap? if so how was it shot?

Icon_Ed6

i PM'd you

94preludeguy

Got a whole new dizzy warrantied out. Car starts just fine now and is getting sufficent spark and everything. However, still stumbles. Cleaned the throttle body out and now I'm getting an idle surge. Going to bleed the coolant system I think that's the issue with that. We're supposed to get 6-12 inches tomorrow so I think I'm going to go ahead and drive back home even with it stumbling. The no start issue is completely resolved. The cap and coil on the "new" dizzy I bought were shot. However I just used his name/phone number and got a new one at Advance Auto.

Anyways I've driven back and forth with it stumbling before so I'm sure I'll be OK. I just want to beat this storm because the last storm I drove in I ended up in a ditch at 70mph.

Icon_Ed6

cool

jason saizan

hey i just started reading ur probs an i know ur car may b running but i almost can promise u ur cat is cloged useing 87 gas for over 20 years plus 200k plus miles i would unbolt it an see how it does will b really loud my friends 91 hatch had the same prob we just gutted his cat an hooked it back has way more power an stoped bogging down

Icon_Ed6

Yeh, I had suggested the same, its a good point since even tho its running its not running good so might as well check the cat out. Cuz if it clogs enuf it could stop the car from running

94preludeguy

I'm honestly starting to lean towards a clogged cat as well.. I'm thinking about just ordering a hi-flow cat or crappy replacement one that's "legal" and getting it welded up. The car was driven for a month or two with no muffler. Basically dumped at the driver seat. I've read that taking out the o2 sensor and driving the car can test if this is the problem? Or would I have to unbolt the header from the cat and test it that way?

94preludeguy

Also, I did make it home safely before any snow hit. We've got about 5 inches so far and it's not stopping until tomorrow night. On the way home it did the stumbling thing the entire ride home but my o2 sensor popped on every 30 miles. I would shut the car down to reset it. Then when I was close to town I just left it on. It just did one blink every couple seconds so it's code 1. It has a brand new o2 sensor in it and I know for a fact the wire is good so good that also be a symptom of clogged cat? I can sell my old cat for a lot of scrap metal $$$ too!

SOHCwarrior

Is sputtering through out the rpm's. Or just really bad between around 1500 to 3000?

94preludeguy

Throughout the RPMs. It will reach redline, just sputters the entire time.