Crxbmx

Hello everyone. I'm new here. So I tried Doing a search on the problem I've been having with my Crx with my d16 y8. No one seemed to have the same issue. My Crx bogs at low rpm between 1500 and 3000 rpm. Anything above 3000 it runs great. Also if I'm crushing steady in 2nd at about 2000 rpm it starts to jerk like I'm hammering the throttle on and off fast.

I have a D16y8. P28 ecu and TD-80 dizzy. also ecu and dizzy obd0-obd1 jumper harnesses.

I had the swap professionally done. But it started giving me problems a month or so after. I've replaced my o2 sensor. Removed cat and installed resonator. Checked all my grounds. I remember I unplugged my tps one time and it ran fine but with a CEL so I bought a new one and it ran the same with the new one installed. Cleaned my IACV. Idk what else I should look for. When my tips is plugged in i do not Show a CEL. Any advise is greatly appreciated. Thank you

Crxbmx

Has anyone had a similar problem or know what's going on with mine?

4drEF

Did you set the TPS when you installed it?
Have you set the timing?

Crxbmx

I tried rotating it both directions and it didnt make a difference. When I check my timing by putting piston 1 at TDC the mark on the timing belt pulley is in the right place. But when I check with a light the dot on the bottom pulley is like an inch or less to the right of the pointer

4drEF

To set the TPS you need a multimeter.
This is a requirement if you want it running right.

Before you can use a timing gun to set your ignition timing, you need to defeat the electronic ignition advance in the ECU.
You do this by putting a paperclip in the service connector - same one as the one you jump for retrieving ECU codes.

Crxbmx

Ok I'll look up how to check that. And is the service connector the blue clip hanging down to the right of the ecu?

91 EF DX

^^^ Yeah, its just under the dash.

Crxbmx

Ok I haven't been on in a while I've been really busy. But since I posted I've calibrated my tps to register .5 with throttle closed. And it consistently climbs until the throttle is wide open. And I know my timing is correct. I've checked and listened and it's all smooth. But I'm still bogging really bad. I've changed my fuel filter. Could it be an issue with a fuel pump or ecu? It seems like its running rich maybe. But after 3k rpm everything runs good

Crxbmx

Bump

GPC91

iTrader: (1)

i have the same problem with my crx. i have the d16zc vtec. it only acts up when im below 1/4 tank of gas though. is that also a factor in your problem?

either way bump

Crxbmx

Mine does it regardless I'm pretty sure. I unplug my tps and it helps a little but not much

Crxbmx

I wa drivin car around and it seemed to do it less when I was almost on "E" but as soon as I filled up to over half a tank it did it pulling out of the gas station. My dad dying maybe something electrical. In ecu or something. I'd also like to add I'm sure it's running really rich cuz when I had a cat it was 4 times the max pollutant level. With a new O2 sensor

Crxbmx

Ok so it's been a while since I've posted on my problem. And I may have fixed it. I went to double check my tps and i calibrated it a different way doing wot first at 4.5v and for the idle at .5 I adjusted the screw under the throttle cable. Soni went to drive my car and still nothing. But I noticed my idle was at like 1500 rpm so I messed with the screw on my TB and tightened it all the way in and my idle went to 1000. Went to drive my car and I could not get it to bog and it seemed smoother throughout all throttle range. Crossing my fingers. Just thought I'd update considering no one ever updates when they fix the problem.

Crxbmx

SO adjusting that screw didn't fix my problem. Same issue later that day. Im out of ideas

Crxbmx

I was just thinking if it could be a ground issue? Could a bad ground cause that? And where are all my grounds that I should check? Where are they all located?

cklauj207

I have a similar issue, as GPC had mention.. btw has your issue been fix? ..bump

v4lu3s

with a d16y8 make sure you have a d16y8 basemap on the p28, the z6 basemap is not appropriate. Also make sure that the base timing on the engine is matched to what the ecu expects.

villc713

Had the same problem with a gsr I fixed my problem by trading for a poor mans type r...lol

4drEF

How do you load an OBD2 map onto an OBD1 ECU?
Anyway... If there is any gain, it's freaking minuscule.
Certainly not worth chipping an ECU for.

v4lu3s

actually it IS worth it since the y8 is set to 12 btdc and the stock p28 map is for 16btdc, and the timing curves are very different for the 2 engines due to different head flows and different combustion chamber design.
as far as putting an "obd2" program on the ecu you don't. you get a basemap for the d16y8, there are lots of them out there.

4drEF

The differences between the stock maps aren't THAT great.
There isn't a true map for a Y8 on OBD1 since Y8's are all OBD2.
You would be getting a basemap - a generic tune that is hit or miss for working well.
Proper way would be to have it dyno tuned by a tuner you trust... but it's $

The engine will run just fine on a stock P28 with the timing adjusted at the distributor.
Ran something very similar to a Y8 for a couple years on a P28 myself with zero issues other than the standard cold idle problem (z6 block, Y8 pistons, Y8 head).

Point is - running a basemap isn't a sure fire way to clear up the low end bog.
It might actually make it worse.