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Old 02-13-2012, 11:52 PM   #1
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Default Code 9 and 10 car jerks

My car jerks when i accelerate, the more i give it gas the more it starts to jerk, the only way to stop it is to step on the clutch, it jerks so much it is nearly undrivable. When i mean jerk i mean the whole car shakes back and forth like crazy. i get the check engine light sign coming up and got code 9 and 10 i am assuming it has to do with that. Is code 9 distributor and timing belt problems? I took out my distributor but i don't know what to even look for to see if there is anything wrong with it, what do i look for? Please help.
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Old 02-14-2012, 01:15 PM   #2
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Default Re: Code 9 and 10 car jerks

What motor do you have?

Code 9 - No. 1 Cylinder Position (CYP Sensor)
Code 10 - Intake Air Temperature (IAT Sensor)

Code 10 is an easy one to get rid of. The sensor is on the intake runner (closest to the driver side). A white plug with red/yellow and green/white wires should plug into it.

Code 9 Could either be your wiring or base timing is off. I'm guessing your timing if off a couple teeth. Get the crank at TDC, remove the the valve cover, and see where your cam gears are at. (If you need me to go into more detail, I can).

It can also be a wiring issue. Going from DPFI to MPFI can be tricky (assuming you swapped the engine). This link should help you out with the wiring.
http://ef-honda.com/ben/EFwiring.php
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Old 02-14-2012, 04:27 PM   #3
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Default Re: Code 9 and 10 car jerks

My motor is a d16 swapped from a 97 civic, can you go into more detail on what to do this is my first time doing this so i don't really know what to do, all i understood was to remove the valve cover. Thanks!
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Old 02-14-2012, 06:15 PM   #4
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Default Re: Code 9 and 10 car jerks

What you are going to do is check to see if your cam gear is at Top Dead Center (TDC) when your crank is.

Look at the crank pulley. Get it at TDC. There should be 3 closely together lines followed by a single line by itself (refer to picture)
Click the image to open in full size.

The line by itself is the TDC mark. Use a socket on the bolt holding the crank pulley to the block. Rotate this counter-clockwise (refer to picture)

Click the image to open in full size.

Line this up with the TDC mark on your lower timing cover (refer to picture)

Click the image to open in full size.

Click the image to open in full size.

Once the crank pulley TDC mark is lined up with the lower timing cover TDC mark, the crank is at TDC.

Now, if your timing belt was on correctly, your cam gear should be a TDC as well...

Remove your valve cover (10mm).

Remove the cam gear cover. There are 3 bolts on the side of it (refer to picture).

Click the image to open in full size.

Where is your cam gear? "up" should be facing up. There are 3 marks on the cam gear, evenly spaced from each other by 90*. The mark directly below the "up" is the one you are looking at.
Match this mark with the mark on the engine (refer to picture).

Click the image to open in full size.

Do this by removing the belt from the gear.
(try to keep tension on the belt so it doesn't form slack. If this happens, your going to have to remove the crank pulley, and that not fun)

Rotate the camgear counter-clockwise by using a ratchet on the cam bolt (in the center) till mark matches the mark on the engine.

Place belt back on camgear.

Rotate crank counter-clockwise a few revolutions and check to see if both the crank pulley and cam gear are both at TDC.

Click the image to open in full size.

Click the image to open in full size.

Put the timing cover back on and the valve cover and start her up.

If you have anymore questions, just ask. Good luck.
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Old 02-14-2012, 10:26 PM   #5
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Default Re: Code 9 and 10 car jerks

Thanks for the guide but how will i be able to keep tension on the timing belt? Do you think if i do this it will solve my jerking problem? My engine revs fine just when i start moving it will jerk the more i step on gas. I also think my coil overs are shot, could this be causing it to jerk real badly? when it starts jerking and when i give it gas it just jerks more and i can hear the engine rev up and down so maybe it isn't the coil overs?Click the image to open in full size.


Click the image to open in full size.
I am going to start to do whats on the guide when i have time
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Old 02-15-2012, 06:18 AM   #6
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Default Re: Code 9 and 10 car jerks

To keep tension on the belt, I would with one hand pull the belt off the cam gear. Once it's pulled off, pull up on it. With your free hand, grab a ratchet with a 14mm socket and spin the cam gear counter clockwise till the bottom mark matched the mark on the engine. You don't have to really pull up on the belt, just don't let it sag. But make sure the crank pulley is at TDC before touching the cam gear.

Blown shocks wouldn't make the car jerk. If you wanna try something simpler first, adjust the TPS on the throttle body (rotate it after loosening the two bolts). If that doesn't work, I'd check resistence on it and see if it's in spec. If it's bad, buy a new one.
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Old 02-18-2012, 07:53 PM   #7
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Default Re: Code 9 and 10 car jerks

I did what you said but i never took the timing belt off and i just adjusted the cam gear to make it match the top wheel, i still have code 9 but the car jerks less now and is driveable, i didn't see any of the marks on cam gear. My car is vibrating and making a buzzing sound when its idle, i don't have a rpm gauge but it sounds like it is idling high or something, is there a way to fix it?
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Old 02-21-2012, 07:02 AM   #8
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Default Re: Code 9 and 10 car jerks

Dam my car is throwing both codes also. Its a 97 coupe w/itr. I know what i need to do eliminate 10 just haven't. But 9 had me wondering. Guess I'll try this out.

Sounds like you have bad mounts and a bad tps. What's codes is it throwing now?
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Old 02-21-2012, 03:40 PM   #9
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Default Re: Code 9 and 10 car jerks

I don't see how adjusting the cam gear with the belt on changed the timing, but if it ran better, then you did something right. If it's idleing high, you can adjust the idle screw on the throttle body. It's towards the top of the throttle body and you need a slotted screw driver. If yours was never adjusted in the past, there might be a gray paint on the screw (used to keep it from rotating). Break the paint seal by rotating the screw.
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