DC4 ENTHUSIAST

Back around November I noticed it felt weird when I was changing gears, so I drove home and parked my car in our covered parking spot. The next day when I went to leave the car wouldn’t start…

The clutch pedal at this point was kind of bent and it didn’t look right so I pushed it in by hand a few times and I heard a “snap” confirming that the clutch pedal was broken.

I was laid off right before this car trouble and I don’t have enough money to have the car towed and repaired at a shop. I searched and have been researching how to repair the broken clutch pedal myself and found this thread that I have used as a guide https://honda-tech.com/forums/honda-crx-ef-civic-1988-1991-3/manual-pedal-cluster-auto-car-1220898/

I pulled the seat, laid on my back with a flashlight looking up and was able to find the “hidden bolt” by pushing the duct plastics around. I went after the “hidden bolt” first thinking if I can get it out the job should be a lot easier being as everyone seems to get stuck dealing with the “hidden bolt”. I loosened the steering column but didn’t drop it all the way, not sure if it needs to be dropped completely but I was able to remove all the pedal assembly bolts with the steering column just loosened. I was able to pull the duct plastic out by hand and reach the “hidden bolt” that is a real hassle to remove and I don’t think I am going to bother trying to put the plastic duct back in… I continued to remove the bolts holding the pedal assembly in place and got them all off.

The 12mm bolts have been removed and I believe the only thing keeping the pedal assembly from sliding off is that it’s still attached to the brake master cylinder, clutch cable, and sensor wires are still attached.

One thing I was concerned about was starting the car, using my flashlight I found the clutch interlock switch. I pushed the switch in, turned the key with my other hand and broom the car started right up and was running good so I am very relieved.

Hopefully the bolt and cotter pin attaching the brake master cylinder to the pedal assembly isn’t a hassle to find and remove. I might still need some help but I am going to try to finish the job myself…

93formula

youhave gotten this far on your own im sure you will be fine, its pretty straight forward from here. will you be trying to repair your pedal assmebly or replace it with another one?

LankorDie

I have done this very same thing 4 times in my 88 crx. I swapped in a b16 w/ a cable tranny, then ever since I had problems with my clutch petal bending/breaking. I had a Exedy S1 clutch, and then swapped it out for a stock PP after I broke two pedals, still to no avail. After all that I'm going to try a hydro to see if that remedys the problem.

I cannot describe how much I hate replacing EF pedal assemblies.. here are some tips;
take out your drivers side seat. Lay there on your back, get good lighting. Take out the 14mm bolts and drop the steering column on to your chest. Then take off all the nuts, including that awful hidden one under the plastic heating duct. Push that cotter pin out, disconnect all the plugs then twist it out. Its a huge pain.. I hope you have smaller hands then I do.

Hope this helps!

skidmarkroyalty

iTrader: (1)

ha! it sucks so bad. i ended up finding a shell for 300 and just swaping my motor in. haha. like for real i wasnt trying to deal with that broken pedal bull ****. but i did get it off the shell after i stripped it. i reenforced it wil some thicket metal and i am just waiting till i need it. good luck man.

LankorDie

I tried that too. I added metal braces too it, no help at all.

DC4 ENTHUSIAST

I managed to remove the pedal assembly, I had a really hard time pulling it but it eventually came out. I had to drop the steering column and the fuse box but a bunch of wires were still in the way… I removed the plugs because they kept hitting stuff and I literally had to twist the pedal assembly out…
Hopefully installing a fresh pedal assembly isn’t as hard as removing the old one, any ideas or tips??? I am going to buy a new used pedal assembly and hopefully I can get it in myself.

Clipsed

iTrader: (2)

Yea I reinforced mine also, ended up tranfering the stress to another weak point in the pedal assembly and started cracking again. Thankfully I caught it before it got too bad and fixed it. I can post some pics up in a bit.

Clipsed

iTrader: (2)

Here is what my pedals look like. Also, I seen you wanted some pedals and someone to install em... Hit me up via PMs if you want these ones, I need to replace these with ones from an EX so that I can use my cruise control...

hatchyboy89

i snaped the cable on my b18b so i got one for a DA and goin frm the stock one for the ef to a da one WOW it is so much easier to push down,the one i had was a new one for a ef also.idk if that will help u but for me it feels NICE

Clipsed

iTrader: (2)

Not sure about that, I always wondered why mine felt like I was running a stage 4 clutch. My cable was rusty inside, WD40 helped A LOT, but still did not feel like it should. I'm gonna be going hydro tranny soon, so hopefully that feels WAY better!

eklum

hydro swap that b!!!!tch!!!

cseng1320

hey hello i am new on this but a got a question do you any body that has a jdm front end for a 88 hatchbak EF9 please ask any of your friends please i am loking for one. Thank you.

theft24

mine did the same thing, i took that stud out and put a grade 8 bolt through it and a big washer on the other side, hasnt gave me any probs yet

Ass$nyper

I wish my old comp didn't crash I had a nice how to repair and re-enforce the clutch pedal system on both the STD/Dx and SI. The STD had a weaker pedal set. A big part of why mine cracked.

JeffBro

Been wondering about this myself. I just bought a crx six months ago and swapped in my gsr. My clutch is getting towards the end of its life and I would like to upgrade to at least a stage 2. I can tell you that the pedal effort is already significant with a Hasport hydro to cable conversion even with the stock clutch. I would like to reinforce my pedal at the same time that i replace the clutch with an aftermarket one

ewok1

just the thread i was looking for

smilelyg

I know this an old thread but is there a best way to reinforce this pedal assembly or do I jus pull it out and get to welding new metal on it??

EFnCRX

iTrader: (1)

what the **** is this ****? GTFO newb.


anyone have any pics on where you welded support?

LXb16

Here's mine:
I had no shift ability when pushing the clutch and gears were grinding like crazy and finally I was down to about an inch of pedal stroke and my pedal was completely sideways (Poor daily driver.)

Then I discovered this: What is this weld? Looks like somebody tried to fix this before...



http://imageshack.us/photo/my-images/221/imag1135.jpg/
Upon a little more investigation... OMG



http://imageshack.us/photo/my-images/39/imag1136.jpg/
WTF



http://imageshack.us/photo/my-images/210/imag1138q.jpg/
Took about 4 hours, and a set of bruised ribs to discover....



http://imageshack.us/photo/my-images/404/imag1142.jpg/
and finally



http://imageshack.us/photo/my-images/163/imag1145u.jpg/
This is the most wear I've seen on a 22 year old pedal assembly, usually it's the steel dowel between the pedals that breaks.

I just got the assembly from the welder, and he melted the **** out of it for free, so hopefully it works... I like the reinforcements I saw in the photos above! Very Nice Work!!! (I'M JEALOUS) It started making cracking sounds while I was bolting it in this evening. My biggest problem was at the scrap yards, an LX 4 door doesn't get wrecked by some dumb kid very often (very hard to come buy) so now I know I have an extremely rare piece of nostalgia. Funny how this assembly is different, and it's odd I bought this car from an old lady, and it has no duct work under the steering column, AND spot welds already on the pedal brackets... HMMMMMM....