nicknack25

When i jump my ecu, sometimes i get one long flash then a long pause and i just keep getting that one long flash. I've read that 1-9 are short blinks and 10+ are long ones but i also read that 1-10 were short blinks and 11+ were long ones. Any help? im not sure if im getting a code 10 or a code 1

Zajnet

One long is code 10.

From crxcommunity.com:
"The output will be in a Morse code style of long and short lights. For example, 2 long, pause, 3 short is 23."

nicknack25

Thanks zajnet. Much appreciated.

B18C5-EH2

It's been a while since I've checked an OBD0 EF, but do they even throw "long" flashes? I don't know why, but I think they only throw short flashes, which means a code "10" would actually be 10 short flashes rather than one long flash like OBD1 throws.

Is the car in question OBD0, or OBD1?

nicknack25

OBD 1. Im running a b18a1 block with a b18b1 head with a pr4 ecu. Do you guys know if i should be using the ecu from a b18b1?

B18C5-EH2

BTW I'm assuming you've got a converted-to-OBD1 set-up since you said "when I jump my ECU" since OBD0 has an LED light that flashes the code without needing to be jumped.



OBD1 and up however do throw long flashes that count as 10 each:







Hope that helps clarify things for anyone wondering about OBD0 vs. OBD1 code reading...

B18C5-EH2

I personally do not like the OBD1 PR4 as I have seen at least 7 of them fail. They were all in 100% stock 1992-1993 Integras, so I don't know if it's a problem with the ECU itself or if perhaps all of the Integras had leaky moonroofs that allowed water to soak into the PR4 ECUs, causing them to malfunction and shut the engines off, not allowing them to crank back up. A few of them looked sort of like they'd been wet, but others looked perfectly dry, but smelled of burnt electronics/ozone, and had to be replaced.

I personally run a 94/95 P75 OBD1 ECU in my B18B Civic wagon (in my sig) and it runs phenomenally for a stock LS swap.

nicknack25

Yes i have a converted-to-OBD1 set-up and yes it does clarify things. Thank you.

nicknack25

Yeah i think i'll try a p75 because my CEL keeps turning on getting a code 10 and everytime i reset my ecu, it goes away and in the manual, thats when it tells me to change my ecu. Thanks for that info.

B18C5-EH2

There is an actual diagnostic flowchart for a code 10, so unless you've actually followed it step by step and ruled out the intake air temperature sensor and it's associated wiring and pins you might be replacing what is still a good ECU, then that ECU would still throw the code 10.

Here is the flow chart:





Since it's a swap I'd suspect possibly wiring and/or pins at ECU.

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iTrader: (2)

b18c5, obd0 ecu's do throw long flashes just like obd1 ecu's do.

Nick nack, just because it is an intermittent code, does not mean you need a new ecu. It's quite possible the wire is chaffed somewhere and making and breaking contact, or the sensor is bad when it gets hotter. That sensor is the same on obd0 and obd1 cars, go to your local yard and get one, then let us know how that goes.

HOWEVER, I'd get a video of the ecu blinking, there is much confussion from many people on what the long flash and short flash look like. The most common fault is a code 1, and when a code 1 is thrown, it will consistently blink one time, and pause after a few blinks, and repeat. Oxygen sensors are one of the most common sensors that go bad.

nicknack25

Yes i've done this. even though i reset my ecu and the cel went away, i still followed what it said to do. i checked the resistance on the sensor, even tried changing the sensor, and i checked voltage at the plug and i checked the wires at the ecu. I still cannot find whats wrong.

I'm not sure if this will help but this is what my cel does. So as i am driving sometimes i shift too early and you know how it is when you're in a high gear but at a low speed. THEN the cel turns on then after a while of driving normal, it goes off. Fot example, im in 4th going 30. And it only turns on in that situation.

nicknack25

I've tried changing the sensor and it did not help. Changed it about 3 times.. I'll try using a known good sensor and let you guys know.

And i am certain that it is a long flash becuase i've seen short flashes on my ecu because i had a code 14 before. But i'll still try to get a video of it.

B18C5-EH2

Yeah it's been a while since I've actually read, or even seen codes above the numeric value of "10" on an OBD0 car to recount if it was 10+ short flashes, or one long flash equaling 10.

When I looked the code procedures on All Data (to try and double check my memory) the OBD0 chart I posted there (as you can see) says "10 blinks" for IAT, "12 blinks" for EGR system, etc. etc. It's definitely misleading as it should read "code 10" or "code 12" because it literally states that one would see "12 blinks" when in fact it'd really be 1 long blink immediately followed by 2 short blinks.



I dug up a 1990 Integra service manual (an actual Acura one) and while it has the exact same misleading code chart with the "10 blinks" crap it also has the same text I bolded that said:

"Problem codes 10 through 43 are indicated by a series of long and short blinks. The number of long blinks equals the first digit, the number of short blinks equals the second digit. Add the long and short blinks together to determine the fault code"

So MY BAD for posting misleading info. I hate it when people do that.

Yes there are also conditions which bring out codes worse than others too, such as certain rpms or loads, lack there of, etc. that make certain codes "pop up" faster.

Also agreed. A video of the blinking code would be ideal. It's hard to gauge the blinks if you have no other codes/blinks to reference at that time. you could always unplug another sensor such as a throttle position (will throw code 7 - 7 short blinks) and see if that "long flash" for your code 10 is absolutely longer than the 7 short flashes the TPS would throw.

nicknack25

the video is on its way and i just measured the voltage from the red/yel wire to body ground it was 5.02 and then i measured red/yel to the grn/white and it came out to be 4.97. Does the voltage between the red/yel and grn/white HAVE to be 5 V or is 4.97 okay?

nicknack25

Here is the video of my ecu blinking.


http://s906.photobucket.com/albums/a...01214-1219.mp4

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iTrader: (2)

lol b18c5, I'm just jerking your chain, because you made a silly mistake as I know you are one of the most knowledgeable people on the forums. But nick, that is without a doubt a code 10. I would check the wiring. You intake manifold could have gunk in it also from the pcv system, are you sure it's clean in the IAT area?

nicknack25

When i looked into the intake manifold, it didn't look like a lot of gunk was down there but i cant really be too sure about that. Can i just spray brake clean down there and let it dry out to clean it?

Dc4iNtEgRa

The video you posted is a obd-0 ecu. OBD-1 doesn't have the light on the ecu, it flashes through the MIL in the cluster as seen above.

I had/have the same code with my chipped P05, yet everything checks out. (haven't driven the car in a while.) My P30 ecu doesn't trip the code though...

nicknack25

oh i didn't know that a pr4 was obd-0. Thanks for that info. So can i use a P28 ecu? or any obd-1 ecu?

B18C5-EH2

I didn't check the video [before] because someone else answered, but yeah that's an OBD0 PR4.

BUT!!!

There are OBD0 AND OBD1 PR4 ECUs.

1990-1991 Integras had the OBD0 PR4.

1992-1993 non-VTEC Integras had the OBD1 PR4.

No, the P28 is VTEC and will undoubtedly throw codes, have wrong fuel/timing maps, etc.

I'd either stay OBD0, or go OBD1 and get the 94-95 OBD1 P75 ECU.

nicknack25

Thanks for that info. i also found this yesterday

"what is the perpose of running the p28 ECU in a nonvtec car unless u have a ls/vtec what does it do for u he should use what ever ECU matches his head if it is a pr4 head get the pr4 ECU if he has the p75 head get the p75 ECU u wnt the ECU to match the cams/air/fuel/timming ect ect that is why i ask why are u running a vtec ECU in a nonvtec car"

so that cleared up a lot. i have a p75 head so i will use the p75 ecu. Thanks everyone.

nicknack25

Just wondering, since there's an obd-0 and obd-1 pr4 ecu, is there an obd-1 AND an obd-2 ecu?

Dc4iNtEgRa

In order to use a obd-1 ecu, you will need a few things:

obd-1 ecu
obd-1 distributor
obd-0 to obd-1 distributor jumper harness
obd-0 to obd-1 ecu jumper harness
4 wire 02 sensor
exhaust manifold from obd-1 engine (obd-0 has 2 02 sensors in front, obd-1 bottom before the cat.)

That is just a few things.

Dc4iNtEgRa

If you mean is there a obd-1 and a obd-2 P75 ecu, than yes.