G. Man

Ok, so we just swapped heads on my wagon. Got everything hooked up and now the car won't start. We are getting fuel, and spark. The timing is right. It has new cap, rotor, plugs and wires. I was getting code 15-ignition output signal, and code 16- fuel injectors, but I replaced the wires because two of them were not making a connection with the dizzy, and haven't thrown a code since. What is going on? We have checked and re-checked the connections on all sensors, and even silicone greased each connection. We took the dizzy to auto zone, and it tested fine (coil and ignition control module). We don't know where to go from here. Any useful input would be greatly appreciated!!! Thanks

EFin Baby J

did u put da sparkplug wires in da correct order?

G. Man

Dat I did.


I'm wondering about the head we put on now. I just can't see any other possibilities. I hope someone out there in honda-land will save me though Please?

1990edsedan

ignitor in the dizzy - check that.

PetersonJ39

i would do a compression test anyting with the correct amount of compression spark and fuel will run maybe not good but it will run and after that i would say that there must be something wrong with your fuel setup because your doing a swap. post back if that works out

G. Man

It wasn't a mod swap, just a bad for a good. The old one had a burnt or stuck valve. Everything is the same except for the new head, and timing belt, and water pump of course. Haven't checked compression yet though. Will do that tomorrow. Think we'll re-do the timing for the hell of it anyways, even though pretty positive it's on.

1990edsedan: in my first post I said that I had autozone check my dizzy, including the ignition control module. This is also called an ignitor, correct me if I'm wrong.

Jockone

Check fuel pressure as well as compression but I don't think that is your problem.
Yes the ignitor is the same as the ignition control module.

EFin Baby J

ok, try rotating ur dizzy. it might b too advanced/retarded. dat happend to me wen i did my mini-me swap. i was gettin fuel an spark an wen we rotated my dizzy, it started up.

G. Man

Alright! Got it started. Don't know if it was the timing, or us hooking up the exhaust so there was some back pressure, but it started. Now the idle is funny, like fluctuating, and it's getting real hot. I'm hoping the overheating is maybe air bubbles in the coolant system? Can anyone tell me how to bleed the coolant? And if anyone has ideas on the idle, i'm all ears. I'm just stoked it's running. Thought it was gonna be sitting for a while.

KINGVEM^^ED6

iTrader: (1)

check the timing with a light

G. Man

Alrighty, well we loosened the timing belt a little, and started it up and everything appeared to be ok. Took it for a drive and brought it back to adjust the timing and noticed the radiator had a crack in the top where the air cleaner "snorkel" bolts up. Then noticed it had another crack @ the other bolt, so we must have leaned too hard on it or something. Should have just taken it off. So now I need some j.b. weld, and a timing light and I'm good to go I think. One thing after another with this car. It's gona have a new head, new timing belt, water pump, alternator belt, starter, battery, o2 sensor, temp sending unit, temp sensor, plugs, wires, cap, rotor, air cleaner, tranny fluid, and I'm sure I forgot somthing lol. And I probably haven't even put 500 miles on it

10psiLsEf2

hahah lol.
you said bolted up exhaust?
yea that will cause it not too start....back pressure.

G. Man

Haha, u said, he said... Shut the **** up. You will fit in nicely here. What tech is in your post? I have enough sarcasm to euthanize a small elephant. Thanks for being a dick.

4drEF

jb weld will not seal up the radiator. Not even worth the effort.... been there done that.
Just get a cheap all metal replacement and never worry about those stupid plastic tanks again.

G. Man

I'm afraid of that, I have three layers on there now. The first two had pin hole leaks, and it's holding for now. I've only driven it 100 miles though. Craziest thing though, now my tach acts up at random times. It'll be fine, then it will start acting erratic. I can't see any bare wires or anything where it could be shorting out. Do you know how I could fix it? The car is running fine, just the tach is acting up.

4drEF

Tach thing could be a tough one to figure out.
If distributor wiring really is good then it could be a loose ground.
Have you ever had your gauges out? Maybe a loose connection back there.
Something in the distributor could be failing as well, but I think you would have more problems than just a jumps tach if this were the case.