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Converting from 4x100 to 4x114.3

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Old 01-15-2005, 07:52 AM
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Default Converting from 4x100 to 4x114.3

What is necessary, how difficult, and is actually worth it? I'm looking to install the JDM ITR 96 spec wheels.

Any help would be great.
Old 01-15-2005, 08:07 AM
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Default Re: Converting from 4x100 to 4x114.3 (The Setup)

i would figure it would be something like changing to a 5 lug. search for the five lug conversion posts here and then make the appropriate changes in parts to accomemate what your doing.

should just be like 5 lug conversion...IMO
Old 01-15-2005, 09:35 AM
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Default Re: Converting from 4x100 to 4x114.3 (manson)

i second that.
I'm still scrounging up my pennies.
I bought a set of 5 lug TSW Vx-1's about 6 months ago. I still don't know why i bought them. STUPID ME!

Anywayz, the conversion to JDM type R will run me about 2-3k.
My other alternative is to use adapters. Unfortunately, no one will lend me one so i could see what the rims will look like with an extention. I don't want to go out and purchase all 4 and not like the way they might stick out. The set of 4 will run me about $320.

Just so you have an idea of my dilema......Good Luck!
Old 01-15-2005, 09:56 AM
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Default Re: Converting from 4x100 to 4x114.3 (The Setup)

someone on here has ITR 4 lugs on their hatchback

they look siiiick, but he said there were a couple issues with the parts he used for the conversion including a drastic positive camber issue that he had to fix by dropping the car to the ground.
Old 01-18-2005, 05:01 PM
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Default Re: Converting from 4x100 to 4x114.3 (eumoria)

i did the conversion and have an assortment of JDM rims to go with it. I did not run into any camber issues at all.

PM me if you have more questions or neeed parts
Old 01-18-2005, 05:33 PM
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Default Re: Converting from 4x100 to 4x114.3 (B16B)

yo, i did the 4x114 on my crx and yes the only bad part os the postive camber, but i'm always riding low so that part didnt bother me. but its very easy to do.
Old 01-18-2005, 10:28 PM
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Default Re: Converting from 4x100 to 4x114.3 (wu tang)

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by wu tang &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">yo, i did the 4x114 on my crx and yes the only bad part os the postive camber, but i'm always riding low so that part didnt bother me. but its very easy to do. </TD></TR></TABLE>

his car looks bad *** with the '96 type r wheel, makes the swap worth it imo
Old 01-18-2005, 10:36 PM
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yeah looks tight
Old 01-29-2005, 07:21 PM
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Default Re: (egdrift88)

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by wu tang &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">yo, i did the 4x114 on my crx and yes the only bad part os the postive camber, but i'm always riding low so that part didnt bother me. but its very easy to do. </TD></TR></TABLE>

are you using camber kits or are they even needed?
Old 01-29-2005, 08:16 PM
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Why not just buy the hubs, have your 4 lug pressed out of the bearing and the 5 lug hub pressed in? Because the rotor will be too big for the caliper...... maybe press the ITR hubs into a 90 teg knuckle? that would cost about 500 bones oem from acura plus the 90 teg parts. Right?
Old 01-30-2005, 11:03 AM
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Default Re: (crixzc)

rears are no problem but the front's are a totaly different story....i've been casually looking to do this swap as well on my 90 hatch. Here are some conclusion's ive come to??

plan a: turn down 96 spec hubs press them into 90-93 integra knuckles
(experience modrate alignment issues)
plan b: redrill ex hubs to 4 x 114mm and run 2mm spacer
(no alignment issues)
plan cwhich i am currently trying) press turned down hubs in to sir knuckles which ive heard uses 90-93 teg front bearings. ive yet to verify this info
why im i doing this? because i like to do things the hard way, dispite the fact i already have front 90-91 ex knuckles on the hatch i would really like to run either 5-lug or 4-lug itr's rims and brakes.
oh i almost forgot
plan d: just slap on the dc2 knukles and be done with it. my car rides like **** anyway's


conclusion: doesn't seem worth it

p.s. here are some numbers i got from my practice hubs all i have to do is remove .041 thousands form the outer dia. and make sure it has a nice finish. surface hardness should be fine, from my understanding type r hubs use a different, slightly stronger steel.

feel free to correct any info...thanks
Old 01-30-2005, 11:12 AM
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Well,you could always do it the ghetto way and just have the hub and rotor re-drilled/re-tapped for 4x114.3 and fill the other 4x100 holes....i've seen it done quite a few times to cars in my town,works good....
Old 01-30-2005, 11:15 AM
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Default Re: (shocker)

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by shocker &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Well,you could always do it the ghetto way and just have the hub and rotor re-drilled/re-tapped for 4x114.3 and fill the other 4x100 holes....i've seen it done quite a few times to cars in my town,works good....</TD></TR></TABLE>...i agree that is the most cost effective way of doing it .
Old 01-30-2005, 11:58 AM
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Default Re: (FIGARILA)

here was my plan. took off old knuckles, put on new ones, alin it myself. and keep that **** dumped. and boom, you got R suspention.
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