Brake Setup Experience
01-26-2005, 10:27 AM
#1
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Thread Starter
Brake Setup Experience
Disclaimer: This is not an END-ALL to the "what's the best brakes for my car" threads. Those will ALWAYS pop up, regardless of how many times we tell those idiots to use the search function. However, this is to track MY specific results, opinions, experiences with various brake setups.
In the past 4 years, I've used the following brake setups:
'89 CRX SI calipers
OEM Lines
OEM brake pads
9.5" solid rotors
205/50/15 Falken Azenis and 205/50/15 Victoracer V700s
OEM #1
'90 CRX SI Calipers
Stainless steel lines
Hawk HP+ brake pads
9.5" solid rotors
205/50/15 Falken Azenis, 205/50/15 Victoracer V700s, 235/45/13 Escta V700
OEM #2
'94 Integra Calipers
Stainless steel lines
Hawk HP+ brake pads
10.3" x-drilled/slotted rotors
205/50/15 Victoracer V700s
Integra
Wilwood 4 piston billet dynalite calipers
stainless steel lines
EBC Reds, Porterfields, brake pads
11" solid rotor
205/50/15 Victoracers V700s
Wilwood #1
Wilwood 4 Piston forged dynalite calipers
stainless steel lines
Polymatrix D/T pads
12.3" two-piece rotor x-drilled
225/50/16 Victoracer V700s
Wilwood #2
All above setups have been used with rear drum brakes and a SI brake booster and prelude MC.
I used the OEM #1 setup when i first started autocrossing. They worked well, but as soon as I got on track, brade faaadde.
Pros: cheap, easy to use, can fit under 13s
Cons: Fade, low level torque.
Moved to OEM #2 (calipers have slightly bigger brake pads), and brake fade was non-existent. Never felt fade, ever. However, initial response was ok... not nearly as confidence inspiring as they could be. I could hammer on the brakes and never feel fade, but i never felt like the car just came to a halt in blistering haste. I used this setup at several track days and they required the least maintenance.
Pros: Easy to work on, price, cost, etc.
Cons: torque levels, not confidence inspiring, brake pedal FEEL.
Tried Wilwood #1 setup for a year. What a PITA. They required so much maintenance. The bleeder valves are just crap. You cannot torque them down properly, cause you either have them too loose (allowing fluid to seep out), or too tight and they ruin the bleed valve. I ran on several track days and still never experienced fade. They did provide the easiest brake pad exchange, since all you have to do is pull the pad holding pin, remove pad, install new pads, reinstall new pin. the end. Brake pads were also $50/set, vs. $70/set for hawks.
Pros: brake pad cost, torque level much higher
Cons: bleed valves, can't run anything smaller than a 15" wheel, overkill
Most recently went to the Wilwood #2 setup for about 2 months. These rotors are MASSIVE. they are pretty light (two piece rotors are awesome), however, the same issues experienced with Wilwood #1 came back. Bleeding them correctly was difficult at best. Bleeder valves are crap. Also, you HAVE to run a 16" wheel... i couldn't find a 15" that fit.
Pros: Brake pad cost/availability, two-piece rotors are always nice
Cons: bleeder valves, wheel selection, entirely overkill
The current setup is the Integra setup (thanks stan!). I finally did some track testing this past Monday. After getting the pads bedding in, this setup works the absolute best! brake pedal feel is still crap (Honda can't make good brake pedal feel... can you please take a note from Toyota)... but, they WORK. I could not get these to fade either. Come to think of it, I haven't gotten ANY of my brake setups to fade except the OEM #1 setup. with the size of the rotors and calipers, I definitely need a brake bias valve to move the bias more rearward. coming down from a 90-95mph straight to a 30mph turn, I would unload the rear-end of the car drastically, causing it to twitch.
some of it could be dialed out with suspension alignment and shock settings, but, it's obvious the brakes are grabbing, and grabbing HARD. I could dive MUCH deeper with this setup than any of the previous ones.
Pros: OEM caliper, readily accessible parts from local parts stores
Cons: Can't run a 13" wheels, brake pedal feel sucks, x-drilled/slotted rotors are crap (they already have stress cracks)
For some factual data... in September 2004. I ran the OEM #2 setup and the Wilwood #2 setup back to back. Wilwood #2 setup was helping me turn 2:01s at SMMP (a 2.4 mi road course), which also includes the 16s. The OEM #2 setup was turning 1:58s with 13x9 wheels. That was the ONLY change.
This past monday, I swapped out the knuckles, new ball joints, new wheel bearings, new wheel studs, and the Integra setup, I was able to turn 1:54s w/ 15s.
Granted, this is more circumstantial evidence, but, with only a brake setup change and wheel change (same tyre compound, just different sizes... the 235s were on the OEM #2 setup), I was turning FOUR seconds quicker on a 2.4mi road course, or roughly a 4% drop in lap times.
In the past 4 years, I've used the following brake setups:
'89 CRX SI calipers
OEM Lines
OEM brake pads
9.5" solid rotors
205/50/15 Falken Azenis and 205/50/15 Victoracer V700s
OEM #1
'90 CRX SI Calipers
Stainless steel lines
Hawk HP+ brake pads
9.5" solid rotors
205/50/15 Falken Azenis, 205/50/15 Victoracer V700s, 235/45/13 Escta V700
OEM #2
'94 Integra Calipers
Stainless steel lines
Hawk HP+ brake pads
10.3" x-drilled/slotted rotors
205/50/15 Victoracer V700s
Integra
Wilwood 4 piston billet dynalite calipers
stainless steel lines
EBC Reds, Porterfields, brake pads
11" solid rotor
205/50/15 Victoracers V700s
Wilwood #1
Wilwood 4 Piston forged dynalite calipers
stainless steel lines
Polymatrix D/T pads
12.3" two-piece rotor x-drilled
225/50/16 Victoracer V700s
Wilwood #2
All above setups have been used with rear drum brakes and a SI brake booster and prelude MC.
I used the OEM #1 setup when i first started autocrossing. They worked well, but as soon as I got on track, brade faaadde.
Pros: cheap, easy to use, can fit under 13s
Cons: Fade, low level torque.
Moved to OEM #2 (calipers have slightly bigger brake pads), and brake fade was non-existent. Never felt fade, ever. However, initial response was ok... not nearly as confidence inspiring as they could be. I could hammer on the brakes and never feel fade, but i never felt like the car just came to a halt in blistering haste. I used this setup at several track days and they required the least maintenance.
Pros: Easy to work on, price, cost, etc.
Cons: torque levels, not confidence inspiring, brake pedal FEEL.
Tried Wilwood #1 setup for a year. What a PITA. They required so much maintenance. The bleeder valves are just crap. You cannot torque them down properly, cause you either have them too loose (allowing fluid to seep out), or too tight and they ruin the bleed valve. I ran on several track days and still never experienced fade. They did provide the easiest brake pad exchange, since all you have to do is pull the pad holding pin, remove pad, install new pads, reinstall new pin. the end. Brake pads were also $50/set, vs. $70/set for hawks.
Pros: brake pad cost, torque level much higher
Cons: bleed valves, can't run anything smaller than a 15" wheel, overkill
Most recently went to the Wilwood #2 setup for about 2 months. These rotors are MASSIVE. they are pretty light (two piece rotors are awesome), however, the same issues experienced with Wilwood #1 came back. Bleeding them correctly was difficult at best. Bleeder valves are crap. Also, you HAVE to run a 16" wheel... i couldn't find a 15" that fit.
Pros: Brake pad cost/availability, two-piece rotors are always nice
Cons: bleeder valves, wheel selection, entirely overkill
The current setup is the Integra setup (thanks stan!). I finally did some track testing this past Monday. After getting the pads bedding in, this setup works the absolute best! brake pedal feel is still crap (Honda can't make good brake pedal feel... can you please take a note from Toyota)... but, they WORK. I could not get these to fade either. Come to think of it, I haven't gotten ANY of my brake setups to fade except the OEM #1 setup. with the size of the rotors and calipers, I definitely need a brake bias valve to move the bias more rearward. coming down from a 90-95mph straight to a 30mph turn, I would unload the rear-end of the car drastically, causing it to twitch.
some of it could be dialed out with suspension alignment and shock settings, but, it's obvious the brakes are grabbing, and grabbing HARD. I could dive MUCH deeper with this setup than any of the previous ones.
Pros: OEM caliper, readily accessible parts from local parts stores
Cons: Can't run a 13" wheels, brake pedal feel sucks, x-drilled/slotted rotors are crap (they already have stress cracks)
For some factual data... in September 2004. I ran the OEM #2 setup and the Wilwood #2 setup back to back. Wilwood #2 setup was helping me turn 2:01s at SMMP (a 2.4 mi road course), which also includes the 16s. The OEM #2 setup was turning 1:58s with 13x9 wheels. That was the ONLY change.
This past monday, I swapped out the knuckles, new ball joints, new wheel bearings, new wheel studs, and the Integra setup, I was able to turn 1:54s w/ 15s.
Granted, this is more circumstantial evidence, but, with only a brake setup change and wheel change (same tyre compound, just different sizes... the 235s were on the OEM #2 setup), I was turning FOUR seconds quicker on a 2.4mi road course, or roughly a 4% drop in lap times.
01-26-2005, 11:35 AM
#6
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Re: Brake Setup Experience (EL Vap133)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by EL Vap133 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Is this all with the stock brake booster and MC? </TD></TR></TABLE>
"All above setups have been used with rear drum brakes and a SI brake booster and prelude MC"
great info
"All above setups have been used with rear drum brakes and a SI brake booster and prelude MC"
great info
01-26-2005, 11:37 AM
#7
Honda-Tech Member
Thread Starter
Re: Brake Setup Experience (EL Vap133)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Is this all with the stock brake booster and MC? </TD></TR></TABLE>
Stock SI brake Booster, Prelude MC (15/16).
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">No experience with the fast brakes system, i have heard very good things </TD></TR></TABLE>
The Wilwood #1 kit is the FastBrakes kit. The only part of the "FastBrakes kit" that is made by FastBrakes is the caliper bracket.
the rest is a wilwood caliper, VW rotor (if you get the solid 11" one piece rotor), etc, etc.
basically, I'd stick with OEM Calipers and/or setups under 10.5".
Stock SI brake Booster, Prelude MC (15/16).
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">No experience with the fast brakes system, i have heard very good things </TD></TR></TABLE>
The Wilwood #1 kit is the FastBrakes kit. The only part of the "FastBrakes kit" that is made by FastBrakes is the caliper bracket.
the rest is a wilwood caliper, VW rotor (if you get the solid 11" one piece rotor), etc, etc.
basically, I'd stick with OEM Calipers and/or setups under 10.5".
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01-26-2005, 11:40 AM
#8
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Re: Brake Setup Experience (Driven)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Driven »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
Stock SI brake Booster, Prelude MC (15/16).</TD></TR></TABLE>
That explains your pedal feel.
Stock SI brake Booster, Prelude MC (15/16).</TD></TR></TABLE>
That explains your pedal feel.
01-26-2005, 11:44 AM
#9
Skoobie no more...
Re: Brake Setup Experience (EL Vap133)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by EL Vap133 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">That explains your pedal feel. </TD></TR></TABLE>
thats all i need to finish off my brakes is the integra mc and booster
how big of a difference is there in petal firmness?
thats all i need to finish off my brakes is the integra mc and booster
how big of a difference is there in petal firmness?
01-26-2005, 12:06 PM
#10
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Re: Brake Setup Experience (HatchBox)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by HatchBox »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
thats all i need to finish off my brakes is the integra mc and booster
how big of a difference is there in petal firmness?</TD></TR></TABLE>
You will definitely feel a difference! Just wait and see!
thats all i need to finish off my brakes is the integra mc and booster
how big of a difference is there in petal firmness?</TD></TR></TABLE>
You will definitely feel a difference! Just wait and see!
01-26-2005, 12:09 PM
#11
Skoobie no more...
Re: Brake Setup Experience (EL Vap133)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by EL Vap133 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">You will definitely feel a difference! Just wait and see! </TD></TR></TABLE>
if i can find em...
</TD></TR></TABLE>if i can find em...
01-26-2005, 12:20 PM
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Re: Brake Setup Experience (HatchBox)
No mention of what type of brake fluid you are using. Just another factor to sometimes consider for prolonged/repeated braking.
Nice write-up
Nice write-up
01-26-2005, 12:55 PM
#13
Re: Brake Setup Experience (88 rex)
One thing that still bugs me about the wilwood system is the fact that they aren't balanced. I think that the installation of their 4 piston calipers actually upsets the front/rear bias. They offer an adjustable prop. valve, but to install it, you have to completely hack up your brake system (losing system redundancy).
Mabey someday someone will make a bolt on adjustable prop. valve (heres to hoping
).
Mabey someday someone will make a bolt on adjustable prop. valve (heres to hoping
).
01-26-2005, 01:22 PM
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To gain some pedal feel you can also add SS braided brake lines and one of these http://circuithero.com/origina...x.htm
Both of those reduce flex in the brake system. Stock rubber brake line bulge out under pressure. When that happens, some of your pedal pushing effort isn't transfering fluid to the calipers... it's just wasted in buldging out the rubber lines. SS brake lines restrict the buldging.
If you pop your hood and have a friend press on the brakes you can visually see the MC move toward the front of the car. That flex is more wasted pedal pushing effort and it reduces the feel of your brakes. The clylinder brace restricts that flex of the MC moving forward.
Adding a huge MC (larger than your brake system requires) will just reduce the distance you need to press on the brake pedal to allow the wheels to lock up and skid. If it's too big makes the brakes less variable and more like a light switch - ON or OFF. Some variablility is good when you need lighter braking or when you are trying to locate that point where the wheels ALMOST lock up and make that nice 'frying bacon' sound.
Too small of a MC won't push enough fluid and you will have to press too far down on the pedal to skid... or maybe, with a really small MC, you won't be able to skid at all.
Correct me if I'm wrong, but that's they way I learned and understand it.
Both of those reduce flex in the brake system. Stock rubber brake line bulge out under pressure. When that happens, some of your pedal pushing effort isn't transfering fluid to the calipers... it's just wasted in buldging out the rubber lines. SS brake lines restrict the buldging.
If you pop your hood and have a friend press on the brakes you can visually see the MC move toward the front of the car. That flex is more wasted pedal pushing effort and it reduces the feel of your brakes. The clylinder brace restricts that flex of the MC moving forward.
Adding a huge MC (larger than your brake system requires) will just reduce the distance you need to press on the brake pedal to allow the wheels to lock up and skid. If it's too big makes the brakes less variable and more like a light switch - ON or OFF. Some variablility is good when you need lighter braking or when you are trying to locate that point where the wheels ALMOST lock up and make that nice 'frying bacon' sound.
Too small of a MC won't push enough fluid and you will have to press too far down on the pedal to skid... or maybe, with a really small MC, you won't be able to skid at all.
Correct me if I'm wrong, but that's they way I learned and understand it.
01-26-2005, 01:26 PM
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Excellent brake setup reviews!
Thank you Driven!!!! 
Re: Honda Brake Feel
1) get a MC brace -- eggman sells em for us 4g guys. It didn't
totally get rid of the mush feeling, but it definitely helped.
2) make sure you don't have execessive air trapped in
your slide pin boots of the Honda calipers.
-=-=
I was 2nd guessing my choice of 10.2 rotor size. thinking I needed
to step up 11+. You convinced me back, my rotor size isn't the
problem. Now I'm convinced it's my pads.
BTW, I'm running 10.2 Wilwoood dynalites w/ ITR MC/Booster
ATE blue and Wilwood Race Pads (Type ??) and I'm getting
a very grabby w/ light pedal effort. makes braking very
touchy. I think I need to switch out to a less aggressive pad.
Also my rotors have turned a hue of blue/purple at the hub.
I think I glazed the rotors / heat treated the rotors as a result.
Is very loud squealing an indication of this?
When I was running a softer pad, it was a really nice setup.
The pads though would only last 1 HPDE.
BTW, my negatives of the NDL Wilwood caliper are the cost of pads AND
they are a non-standard size. So most brake manufacturers don't stock them.
Re: Honda Brake Feel
1) get a MC brace -- eggman sells em for us 4g guys. It didn't
totally get rid of the mush feeling, but it definitely helped.
2) make sure you don't have execessive air trapped in
your slide pin boots of the Honda calipers.
-=-=
I was 2nd guessing my choice of 10.2 rotor size. thinking I needed
to step up 11+. You convinced me back, my rotor size isn't the
problem. Now I'm convinced it's my pads.
BTW, I'm running 10.2 Wilwoood dynalites w/ ITR MC/Booster
ATE blue and Wilwood Race Pads (Type ??) and I'm getting
a very grabby w/ light pedal effort. makes braking very
touchy. I think I need to switch out to a less aggressive pad.
Also my rotors have turned a hue of blue/purple at the hub.
I think I glazed the rotors / heat treated the rotors as a result.
Is very loud squealing an indication of this?
When I was running a softer pad, it was a really nice setup.
The pads though would only last 1 HPDE.
BTW, my negatives of the NDL Wilwood caliper are the cost of pads AND
they are a non-standard size. So most brake manufacturers don't stock them.
01-26-2005, 02:24 PM
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Re: Brake Setup Experience (Driven)
Great write up. Makes me feel glad for having '94 Integra 10.3' rotors infront and disks in the back. I know my front rotors are warped, I can feel it and hear it when I brake. So I'm going to put in my powerslot rotors on and have some fun with it at an oval track here in Orlando.
I know my front rotors are warped, I can feel it and hear it when I brake. So I'm going to put in my powerslot rotors on and have some fun with it at an oval track here in Orlando.
01-26-2005, 03:04 PM
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Re: Brake Setup Experience (Mach69)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Mach69 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote"> I know my front rotors are warped, I can feel it and hear it when I brake. So I'm going to put in my powerslot rotors on and have some fun with it at an oval track here in Orlando.</TD></TR></TABLE>
LOL - you have warped rotors and you are ready to go warp some slotted rotors!!!
LOL - you have warped rotors and you are ready to go warp some slotted rotors!!!
01-26-2005, 03:20 PM
#18
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Thread Starter
Re: Brake Setup Experience (4drEF)
About a MC Brace.
Maybe i'm a purist **** or stubborn, but, preventing the flex of the firewall by using a brace bolted to the strut tower doesn't exactly make me think "that'll fit it".
I do run SS lines.
I originally started out with Motul 500. Dry boiling point of 550. Wet is around 500, i believe. $14/ea bottle (give or take)
I moved to Ford HD. Dry boiling point of 500, wet is around 350?. $8/ea bottle (give or take).
I recently moved to Valvoline Synthetic. Dry boiling point 470, wet is around 330. $4/ea bottle. (give or take).
about the brake booster...the bigger it is, the less you have to push to achieve the same braking pressure. a good test... remove the hose to the booster and drive it. takes the leg of god to stop.
a bigger booster will change the brake feel... but HOW, it depends on you. I like a firm high pedal with a modulation that's within the first inch of travel.
I DON'T recommend x-drilled rotors. They are crap.
I don't recommend slotted, but they aren't as bad.
Maybe i'm a purist **** or stubborn, but, preventing the flex of the firewall by using a brace bolted to the strut tower doesn't exactly make me think "that'll fit it".
I do run SS lines.
I originally started out with Motul 500. Dry boiling point of 550. Wet is around 500, i believe. $14/ea bottle (give or take)
I moved to Ford HD. Dry boiling point of 500, wet is around 350?. $8/ea bottle (give or take).
I recently moved to Valvoline Synthetic. Dry boiling point 470, wet is around 330. $4/ea bottle. (give or take).
about the brake booster...the bigger it is, the less you have to push to achieve the same braking pressure. a good test... remove the hose to the booster and drive it. takes the leg of god to stop.
a bigger booster will change the brake feel... but HOW, it depends on you. I like a firm high pedal with a modulation that's within the first inch of travel.
I DON'T recommend x-drilled rotors. They are crap.
I don't recommend slotted, but they aren't as bad.
01-26-2005, 03:30 PM
#19
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Re: Brake Setup Experience (Driven)
where do you get the SS lines, Are the integra and civic lines the same, and do they make ss lines for the drums?
Also with your experience what was the best brake pad?
Also with your experience what was the best brake pad?
01-26-2005, 03:51 PM
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Re: Brake Setup Experience (Driven)
Next brake setup you should try is Brembo for the TEGS.
They have huge caliper 4 piston and should improve something
I think you need special 16-17" inch rims.
these cheap **** willodd is gay
They have huge caliper 4 piston and should improve something
I think you need special 16-17" inch rims.
these cheap **** willodd is gay
01-26-2005, 03:57 PM
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Re: Brake Setup Experience (HatchBox)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by HatchBox »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">where do you get the SS lines, Are the integra and civic lines the same, and do they make ss lines for the drums?
Also with your experience what was the best brake pad?</TD></TR></TABLE>
I got Goodridge steel braided brake lines off of another HT member. For the MC and BB, try here: http://www.car-part.com and select "all states" for better prices.
Also with your experience what was the best brake pad?</TD></TR></TABLE>
I got Goodridge steel braided brake lines off of another HT member. For the MC and BB, try here: http://www.car-part.com and select "all states" for better prices.
01-26-2005, 04:10 PM
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Re: Brake Setup Experience (Driven)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Driven »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">About a MC Brace.
Maybe i'm a purist **** or stubborn, but, preventing the flex of the firewall by using a brace bolted to the strut tower doesn't exactly make me think "that'll fit it".
about the brake booster...the bigger it is, the less you have to push to achieve the same braking pressure. a good test... remove the hose to the booster and drive it. takes the leg of god to stop.
</TD></TR></TABLE>
I agree with the booster info keeping in mind that with or without the booster hooked up/working you still have to press the pedal down just as far to lock the wheels up to skid. The booster is like power steering for your brakes. Adding a larger one will just make it easier to press the brake pedal down. Not having a booster at all will be hard to press down (like a 5 year old trying to turn a steering wheel in a parked car!).
The brace isn't a "that'll fix it" 100% part, but it does help!
I have one and I can tell the difference between having it and not having it.
SS brake lines don't 100% fix the flexible brake lines from bulging, but they do reduce it significantly - so they do help.
Maybe i'm a purist **** or stubborn, but, preventing the flex of the firewall by using a brace bolted to the strut tower doesn't exactly make me think "that'll fit it".
about the brake booster...the bigger it is, the less you have to push to achieve the same braking pressure. a good test... remove the hose to the booster and drive it. takes the leg of god to stop.
</TD></TR></TABLE>
I agree with the booster info keeping in mind that with or without the booster hooked up/working you still have to press the pedal down just as far to lock the wheels up to skid. The booster is like power steering for your brakes. Adding a larger one will just make it easier to press the brake pedal down. Not having a booster at all will be hard to press down (like a 5 year old trying to turn a steering wheel in a parked car!).
The brace isn't a "that'll fix it" 100% part, but it does help!
I have one and I can tell the difference between having it and not having it.
SS brake lines don't 100% fix the flexible brake lines from bulging, but they do reduce it significantly - so they do help.
01-26-2005, 04:40 PM
#24
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Re: Brake Setup Experience (Driven)
i can vouch for the bleeders on the wilwood, what a PITA!
i was finally able to fit the 12.2" wilwood kit under the TDR wheels with some "mild" griding of the calipers, which was blessed by Brian from Fastbrakes. do not have any definitive results from the set-up as i barely finished the dirty work.
i can also vouch for the ridiculous x-drilled/slotted rotors, absolute garbage, i guess kam is reaping the results of my daily use on those rotors already, and they were not abused during my use. i'll change the wilwood rotors to solid ASAP (thank dog the are cheap).
overall i completely agree with Kam. 10.3 is all you need, with proper pads and fluid.
i went to great lengths to fit the damn wilwoods under something reasonable as a 15" wheel and do not recommend it to anyone who is of faint of heart.
kam, you can have my neuspeed lines if you need BTW.
stan
i was finally able to fit the 12.2" wilwood kit under the TDR wheels with some "mild" griding of the calipers, which was blessed by Brian from Fastbrakes. do not have any definitive results from the set-up as i barely finished the dirty work.
i can also vouch for the ridiculous x-drilled/slotted rotors, absolute garbage, i guess kam is reaping the results of my daily use on those rotors already, and they were not abused during my use. i'll change the wilwood rotors to solid ASAP (thank dog the are cheap).
overall i completely agree with Kam. 10.3 is all you need, with proper pads and fluid.
i went to great lengths to fit the damn wilwoods under something reasonable as a 15" wheel and do not recommend it to anyone who is of faint of heart.
kam, you can have my neuspeed lines if you need BTW.
stan
01-26-2005, 08:51 PM
#25
Honda-Tech Member
Thread Starter
Re: Brake Setup Experience (Stan D)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Stan D »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">kam, you can have my neuspeed lines if you need BTW.
stan</TD></TR></TABLE>
eh, i'll take them
grinding the calipers? eek! .covers ears.
stan</TD></TR></TABLE>
eh, i'll take them
grinding the calipers? eek! .covers ears.
